Front stage for 145db?

[Based]

What do you all think I would have to do to get a front stage that sounds natural with a 145db substage? I'm mostly concerned with the midbass as that's the hardest to get in a car. Are there any 5.25" component sets that could do it?

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[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Nothing will sound natural without processing. Nothing will sound natural at that level, ears are stressed and panels are vibrating. If you are really worried about midbass at that level you will want a 10 on each side.

 

[kr15 5,000+ posts]

I think the hertz hi energys could. They are pricey, but imo are the best sounding "loud" components. Of course, a major part of getting good midbass is install dependant.

Im sure other sets could... but those are just the set ive heard in person that can keep up with a loud substage. 145 seems to be apart the cutoff where you really need a good front stage install if you are not running pa drivers and just 1 set

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

2 sets of pa to match the subs, 1 will do but its very obvious that your subs are louder unless you're talking an 8 or 10 inch pa and super tweeters which generally sound harsh

youll have a hard time matching midbass with bass that loud so expect to be lacking in some unless you invest time and money

oh and since you're stuck with 5.25, look very hard for ways to get a larger driver in..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

its time for door mods. 5.25s cant offer sh*t for midbass when you are past 135db

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs225p-4-8-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-377

https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-rt2c-a-planar-isodynamic-tweeter--297-406

Id do a 1500hz 24 db octave xover with a 12db octave slope at 2200 on the tweeter

 

[Based]

I would like to put 8s in the doors I just don't know how

Am I reading that wrong or is that a 7 inch tweeter?

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I would like to put 8s in the doors I just don't know how
Am I reading that wrong or is that a 7 inch tweeter?

Yes that tweeter has a diameter of 7". I have no idea why that would be installed in a car.

There are hundreds of car audio build logs online that show how people have modified door panels and constructed speaker mounts for a variety of applications. Check out Car Audio Fabrication on YouTube or consult with locals who have already done this at a level of quality you find acceptable. If you're doing this work yourself then read, read, and read, buy supplies and tools and get building.

 

[Based]

Yes that tweeter has a diameter of 7". I have no idea why that would be installed in a car.
There are hundreds of car audio build logs online that show how people have modified door panels and constructed speaker mounts for a variety of applications. Check out Car Audio Fabrication on YouTube or consult with locals who have already done this at a level of quality you find acceptable. If you're doing this work yourself then read, read, and read, buy supplies and tools and get building.

Yeah I'm doing everything myself. I don't want to just throw money at it to get it done, that's not fun and to me it's not about the end result; it's about learning a skill for me.

I think I'm gonna go get a set of a-pillars and door panels from a junkyard and practice.

 

[Flipper245]

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs225p-4-8-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-377https://www.parts-express.com/hivi-rt2c-a-planar-isodynamic-tweeter--297-406

Id do a 1500hz 24 db octave xover with a 12db octave slope at 2200 on the tweeter

Hey man. You mentioned in an earlier post that you had a xenon 200.4. Do you think those 8's would handle that kind of power?

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

FI has the CF mids, same as the old AA's, midbass for days. Single per door will easily keep up with 145's

Fi N.7 Midrange | Fi Car Audio

 

[LoudSound]

this what you do.

vibrodampen your doors with 2mm+ thickness material like kno knoise kollosus/secondskin/dynamat extreme(overpriced)doors must be cleaned with degreaser prior(Duh). Do that to the outer, and the inner panels, as well as plastic door cards. Roll that shyt on good with a roller. Don't halfa$$ this part. Don't get some cheap random material like FATMAT or some other bullshyt like that.

10 inch midbass in each door/under seat.(probably better under seat styll.)

a couple of 6-8inch mids in each door.

bullet tweeters, size don't matter you can put the giant ones if you want. People do it. it works great.

Shyt will sound GUCCI. BELIEDAT

I think you can get away with as few as 2mids/door. Too many and they will suffocate in there.

As far as fitting the drivers goes you make rings from mdf and build custom doors with polyester resin, finishing them off with body filler and wrapping with pleather.

Even so, it's not likely to play above 120db, which is absolutely fine. At 145db bass, you're just trynna hear what the guy is saying, not worrying about balance n shyt.

 

[Flipper245]

this what you do.vibrodampen your doors with 2mm+ thickness material like kno knoise kollosus/secondskin/dynamat extreme(overpriced)doors must be cleaned with degreaser prior(Duh). Do that to the outer, and the inner panels, as well as plastic door cards. Roll that shyt on good with a roller. Don't halfa$$ this part. Don't get some cheap random material like FATMAT or some other bullshyt like that.

10 inch midbass in each door/under seat.(probably better under seat styll.)

a couple of 6-8inch mids in each door.

bullet tweeters, size don't matter you can put the giant ones if you want. People do it. it works great.

Shyt will sound GUCCI. BELIEDAT

I think you can get away with as few as 2mids/door. Too many and they will suffocate in there.

As far as fitting the drivers goes you make rings from mdf and build custom doors with polyester resin, finishing them off with body filler and wrapping with pleather.

Even so, it's not likely to play above 120db, which is absolutely fine. At 145db bass, you're just trynna hear what the guy is saying, not worrying about balance n shyt.

Two different mids in the same door (enclosure)? How's that sopposed to work?

 

[LoudSound]

Two different mids in the same door (enclosure)? How's that sopposed to work?

you can have different drivers in a single door not like they cancel out.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

you can have different drivers in a single door not like they cancel out.

Yeah, you can. But you can cut your finger off with pruning shears, doesn't mean you should do it. If you have a bass driver sharing airspace with a midrange driver, the bass driver is going to modulate the midrange and cause the cone to move. This is obviously not desirable. Like those retards with 6x9's being stretched to the limits by the subs in the trunk. It's just stupid.
Shameless but relevant plug for these. --> http://www.caraudio.com/forums/speaker-classifieds/630787-8-carbon-fiber-midbass-mirange-pair.html