Front Stage Amp

Alright 3 way idea has been shot down... was confused on the capabilities of the HU... so 2 way it is same speakers as last time.

So far best choices seem to be:

Phoenix Gold xenon amps, Rockford Fostgate amps, or Kicker amps...

Although there was a Planet Audio 150x4 that looked fairly promising, anyone had experience with thaT?

 
First of all you're wrong on what RMS means. Root Mean Square, the average power that is contained in a sine wave. Your home power is 120V RMS, that means it peaks at 170. What you are talking about has to do with changing the amplitude of the waveform, which in turn changes the RMS which means you are always driving an RMS power. RMS rating just means an average of the area under the sine wave. Just a quick note, RMS to peak multiply RMS by 1.414, Peak to RMS multiply peak by .707.
Well, thanks for the clarification, but you've missed the point of my post. In an attempt to "dumb" it down, I left some things out. Here it is, said better by someone else (who's smarter than me):

If the waveform isn't a pure sine wave (like a square wave or a signal with mixed sine waves of different frequencies or music), multiplying the peak times .707 will not give an accurate RMS value and therefore will not give an accurate indication of the work that the waveform can produce when driving a load.
And furthermore:

RMS & Continuous Power output Many people wrongly believe that the RMS power rating is the same as a continuous power rating.

# RMS watts (Better than peak power but it also lends itself to misinterpretation because it contains no specified element of time

RMS wattage is an accurate way to measure power but the amplifier may only be able to produce the RMS voltage into the given load for a fraction of a second. The, less than honest, manufacturer may plug this RMS voltage into the P=E^2/R formula and give this number as the amplifier's output. If they give this as the power output of the amplifier but don't tell you that the amplifier can't continuously produce this power level, they are again misleading you.

# RMS continuous watts (the best, most accurate, honest way to measure power output)

When manufacturers rate their amplifiers at a given number of RMS watts continuous power output. They are using RMS wattage (derived from RMS voltage) which is the most accurate way to state the useful power produced by the amplifier. There is only one way to interpret this. They are also stating that the amplifier can produce the power continuously. If they didn't specify continuous power they may be trying to cover up the fact that the amplifier could only produce the RMS voltage required to drive the given load to a given RMS power for a fraction of a second (like in the previous example). When they state continuous output power, they are saying that the amplifier can easily and continuously produce the rated output power.
http://www.bcae1.com/voltages.htm

 
OK guys I want to buy these amps tonight, Im buying the speakers as we speak. But can yall suggest some good 200x4@ 4 ohms amps (or more power) for under 250...

 
How would having a Memphis Belle giving 600 watts to the subs @ 2 ohms... bridging the 4 channels to my tweeters giving them 150 watts @ 4 ohms a piece and then buying a seperate amp for my mids sound?

 
I dont know if anyone mentioned this about power. when you double the power there is only a 3db increase. That said if you are running a 100w you need to go to 200w to get 3db increase. I have ran active with a small 40w x 4 amp and it worked ok. now im running 150w to my mids and 50 to the tweeters and it still cant keep up with my subs. I just turned my subs down to match. Look into a 6 channel amp and bridge 4 channels for the mids and using the last 2 channels for the tweeters.

 
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