Front Stage Amp

[BoondockSaints 10+ year member]

OK I want my speakers to be loud and keep up with my subs where I can hear the vocals and such. Which would be the best:

US Amps XT1600.4 (100x4@4 ohms)

Soundstream Reference 604 (75x4@4 ohms)

2 PPI Sedonas 100x2 + 50x2

ADS PQ20 (70x4@4ohms)

MK 4.70 (70x4@4ohms)

Cadence T6004 or whatever the thing is...

It will be powering either crystals or a diy of ER18RNX and a tweeter I have yet to pick. Im gonna chose what front stage I want after I listen and compare the two... But I wanna get my amp now, and the PQ20 is about to end on eBay so I wanna be sure not to miss out on it if thats the one I should get.

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[moneybags 10+ year member]

try the Sundown 100.4 I have that pushing a set of poly mids & cal 26 Titan

 

[BoondockSaints 10+ year member]

Too rich for my blood Im looking to spend under 200 on this amp...

 

[Prowler573 5,000+ posts]

Since Cadence is in your list of considerations....straight out of their outlet store:

TXA3004 (75w X 4 @ 4 Ohms from 13.8vdc) $129/shipped

TXA6004 (150w X 4 @ 4 Ohm from 13.8vdc) $179/shipped

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

http://cgi.ebay.com/MASSIVE-AUDIO-P-400-4-CAR-4CH-SPEAKER-AMP-AMPLIFIER-NEW_W0QQitemZ140140118956QQihZ004QQcategoryZ39739QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

 

[BoondockSaints 10+ year member]

Im not really sure what I should be looking for here... the SN ratio thing? Since my HU has 8v pre-outs is there anything I should look for there.

Im thinking my best 3 choices are either:

US Amps XT1600.4

Cadence TXA6004

MA P 400.4

But which of those are gonna work best for me... Im not positive on whats best to look for...

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Running the SSCS6's in the GF's car off 2 channels of a Profile AP1040. Sounds very nice and gets pretty loud. You could always bridge the amp for more power or get an AP1000 or 1200. She's happy with them getting 75watts...

Profile makes a solid budget amp.

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

That Cadence 6004 looks might nice for the money. 5V max though.

 

[BoondockSaints 10+ year member]

Yah I was looking at the voltage stuff and imagined I should get an 8v one so I don't waste the godlyness of the CD7100

 

[BoondockSaints 10+ year member]

Also, how big of a difference will it make on the 5v or 6v? Probablly one of those things that will start an argument but I kinda need to know... Also can anyone give me something to look at that makes one better than the other? And is 150 gonna be over kill if I have the DIY set, cuz I dont think any tweet in my price range needs 150 watts... Although my understanding is that the gains will be less and their will be less noicefloor? I think thats what someone said.

I need to re measure the space I have but Im thinking the best bet here is gonna be the Cadence because it provides most power for the lowest amount of cash... but if I am wrong someone please correct me.

 

[tRidiot 10+ year member]

a/d/s ftmfw

 

[BoondockSaints 10+ year member]

A little late on the A/D/S ... sold already plus it went for somethin like 250... I think

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Yah I was looking at the voltage stuff and imagined I should get an 8v one so I don't waste the godlyness of the CD7100

Let me just tell you this, the preamp voltage doesn't mean jack. The only way your Eclipse 8v will put out 8v is with a straight sine wave with the volume pegged at 80/80 (or whatever the max volume is now on the new decks).

All the amps listed work with any HU with any preamp voltage. No HU is to strong for any amplifier for the reasons I mentioned. A classic example that I've mentioned many times is the Arc Audio XXK line. Used in many many competitiors vehicles with no doubt strong preamp singnals, the 2.5v MAX imput voltage is not an issue. I've personally never heard of anyone having a problem with those amps what so ever.

Get your DMM out and put a 1k tone recorded at 0db in your deck. Take the DMM leads and put them across the RCA leads of the channel of your choice and increase the volume click-by-click until it maxes out. Watch how little voltage is generated by the HU until it reaches about 90-95% max volume. My guess is that you won't even start seeing any voltage displayed on the DMM until at least 50% max HU volume.

Repeat the experiment with the DMM leads pluged into the speaker output terminals. Just make sure you plug the RCA's in for that channel. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif If you want, you can AMPLIFY that output voltage by adjusting the gain. This is a great way to effectively level match your system. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Do the same test with your favorite music track. The voltage will constantly change as the music plays. Again, watch and see if you can ever detect the votage at or near 8v for more than .0001 seconds. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

In other words, don't take my word for it. Test it yourself and watch it in action. Great way to learn.

There is no "Godliness" in that HU. It's marketing BS at it's finest. Pretty much eqivalent to max power ratings on amps in my book.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Also, how big of a difference will it make on the 5v or 6v?

It doesn't matter.

Just for an example; I was using the 8V Eclipse 8053 with an amplifier that had a "maximum" input level of 1.5V with no ill effects.

Also can anyone give me something to look at that makes one better than the other?

Power output, build quality, warranty, customer service, aesthetics, features, size.

Just depends on what in-particular you are wanting as far as warranty, customer service, build quality and aesthetics, dimensions of the amplifier and what features you need. Then look for the amplifier with the most power you can afford that has the aforementioned attributes.

And is 150 gonna be over kill if I have the DIY set, cuz I dont think any tweet in my price range needs 150 watts...

There's no such thing as too much power //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Also keep in mind that many "DIY" speakers will be 8ohm, so that 150w will be knocked down to 75w.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Im thinking the best bet here is gonna be the Cadence because it provides most power for the lowest amount of cash... but if I am wrong someone please correct me.

Rule #1 in car audio.

Consider the power/size ratio of the Massive amp. The form factor on that amp is impressive. Form factor meaning how much power per square foot or square inch you get out of it.

There's no way any of the amps listed is too much power for your speakers. In fact, you could take any of them and bridge them to your speakers and the results will be clearer, more dynamic and LOUDER (which you want, right?) music. Power doesn't kill speakers, people do. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif