First time LOC user and looking for suggestions on tapping into the factory wires!

[moparnut]

even if it can play bass, you still have the whole factory EQ curve built in. Factory head units have sh*t speakers, they use heavy EQ boosts and cuts to make up for it. You wont see it because its invisible. However now you use aftermarket speakers that was meant to be put on a flat signal but no, its subjected to the factory EQ boosts and now you amplified it. What happens when there's a lot of EQ boost and a lot of amplification? Clipping and distortion. also your new speakers will most likely not like the factory built in EQ curve.

This is exactly what i meant by if you have garbage and amplify it, you'll only get louder garbage. it might sound okay to you but you need to remember, people have different ears. Others might throw up after hearing the same system.

I literally cant stress enough on the importance of a good high resolution quality signal with actual audio controls such as EQ, time alignment and crossovers with a quality 24 bit or higher dac. Literally makes or breaks your setup.

For the best sound quality, best case scenario, money is no object case, you are correct on every front and I won't argue that. However you have to look at the original question. He was looking for a solution that would allow him to use what he already has and not one that requires him to spend more $$$ at this time. While the LOC is not the best possible solution in the world, it does allow someone to have better sound and full function in a daily driven vehicle.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

i'm not even about winning any competitions. Just for daily driving a sh*tty stock head unit signal would bug the absolute fk out of me to the point where i wouldn't even bother listening to music. I'd just podcast sh*t.

 

[fatboytyler]

i'm not even about winning any competitions. Just for daily driving a sh*tty stock head unit signal would bug the absolute fk out of me to the point where i wouldn't even bother listening to music. I'd just podcast sh*t.

We won't know until we try. Ever done it in a Tundra? Could have a different outcome. Like I said, I should have it finished tonight. I'll at least have my door speakers up and running at a minimum and can report back.

 

[moparnut]

We won't know until we try. Ever done it in a Tundra? Could have a different outcome. Like I said, I should have it finished tonight. I'll at least have my door speakers up and running at a minimum and can report back.

Not a tundra, but I have used an LC2i in a '17 Tacoma. Sounds pretty good in there.

 

[fatboytyler]

Not a tundra, but I have used an LC2i in a '17 Tacoma. Sounds pretty good in there.

Well without 0 tweaking my door speakers were up and running and sounding quite well after I banged my head against the wall because of Toyota's genius electrical engineers, but then I decided to yank a wire out in my door somewhere disconnecting my driver door speakers when I rolled down my window...

Its so ******* weird. Toyota has the tweeters in the dash (which had twice the magnet as the factory 6x9s...) with a completely separate cable run to them. So I hooked into both of them at the speaker, after all of Toyota's adapters expecting them to have been filtered out, then just combining them at the LC7i... Well no, it seems Toyota sends full range signals to both... Then the LC7i's signal sense turn on will only turn on with the mid's wire and not the one tapped at the tweeter, YET the tweeter one is still sending signal that is playable through a speaker...

 

[tommydh 10+ year member]

`Well speaking from someone with experience with the LC6i I tapped at the audio control module (Mini/BMW) in the non amplified system in my new one that has a factory amp which made it SOOOO easy I took the amp to speaker side for the signal. Great thing with that unit is you only need to find 1 full range signal my first attemt I used both front and rear signals not knowing there was a bass pad on the front side so I wound up using the rear to supply all the signal then fed an EQ wish I waited 2 weeks back then for the LCQ-1 to come out but shortly after spent the same exact money for DEH-80PRS

 

[fatboytyler]

Well, I finally got everything up and running. Wasn't without issue, mostly due to my own fault. Had to rerun a door wire because I didn't pay attention to how it was ran and rolled it up in the power window gear... Then I seemingly bumped the LC7i main channel's RCA and damaged it, but I've worked around no problem, just won't be adding back speakers anytime soon. I also was about to admit defeat on my subs until I realized I had them out of phase (what I get for installing them half asleep)...

Door speakers are great sound quality. The subs certainly aren't perfect, but its not half bad. Biggest advantage I see now to having a quality stereo is the built in LPF/HPF filters. Overall I'm incredibly satisfied.

Now I've just got to decide whether I want an 80PRS or a HU I can use Android Auto with and start saving over the next several months.

 

[BUCKWLD76]

Again, if I'm using my phone's BT to play music over it, I can't use it for hands free calling. Plus, I listen to my Sirius XM a lot on shorter drivers and would be unable to ever listen to it using a DSR-1.

I've already stated that going aftermarket HU is BETTER, but I took the route that costs 1/5 of that option rather than wait another 6 months as a new HU is low on my list of priorities for spending over the summer. I'm not trying to win any competitions here.

He was trying to help you admitted that the install was clean but also admitted how shitty it sounds. Should of started with the HU first and made that a priority.