First system since the internet

If you only have 300 bucks and have blown fronts...

Get some decent front stage drivers and a decent amp to drive them. Skip the rears and spend more on the fronts. Spend the rest on door treatments. Enjoy that and save the sub for later.

In my opinion... trying to flea market an entire system for $300 is going to yield less than favorable results and leave you with the feeling you wasted your money.

 
SUVs are easier to make loud than cars with separate trunks, so you're in luck. Depending on how much trunk space you're willing to give up, I see a nice 1500w 15" in your future.
Not necessarily true.

Depends upon the SUV...there's Tahoe's than s10s. The s10 will be louder than the Tahoe based on inside cabin area.

On the other hand trunk cars can get just as loud also.

 
Update!

On the cheap... Since I made that first post I have purchased and received some of:

USED:

Pioneer DEH-X56HD ($35 shipped)

Alpine MRP-M500 ($77 shipped)

SoundQubed HDS215 ($75 shipped)

Jensen LXA400 (sale pending, $50 shipped)

New:

2 pairs VM Audio 6.5" coax ($40 shipped total)

1 pair PPI T.2 tweeter ($13 shipped)

That's about $290. My original budget was a hopeful $300.

I have a buddy that does factory fiberglass work, and have plenty of 1.5oz, 3oz CSM and resin to do a form-fitting sub box in the back (I gave him $20 for that, but the sub box wasn't in the $300 budget). 5 sides will be MDF, and the last side will be fiberglass molded to fit the side of the cargo storage. If things go well, glassing could start tonight.

CHAD

 
Update!
On the cheap... Since I made that first post I have purchased and received some of:

USED:

Pioneer DEH-X56HD ($35 shipped)

Alpine MRP-M500 ($77 shipped)

SoundQubed HDS215 ($75 shipped)

Jensen LXA400 (sale pending, $50 shipped)

New:

2 pairs VM Audio 6.5" coax ($40 shipped total)

1 pair PPI T.2 tweeter ($13 shipped)

That's about $290. My original budget was a hopeful $300.

I have a buddy that does factory fiberglass work, and have plenty of 1.5oz, 3oz CSM and resin to do a form-fitting sub box in the back (I gave him $20 for that, but the sub box wasn't in the $300 budget). 5 sides will be MDF, and the last side will be fiberglass molded to fit the side of the cargo storage. If things go well, glassing could start tonight.

CHAD
The PPI tweets - are you running them active or? How are you crossing them? Also, why did you need them?

 
I kind of bought them on a whim to get another amazon purchase up to free shipping. They come with a crossover, so I'll just use that. I didn't really need them, but there are blown factory tweeters right there in the door. This will come as a complete shock to everyone, but the VM audio don't have much for crisp highs from the listening position.

Depending on what is needed, probably run the tweeters off of 2 channels of the Jensen and all 4 6.5s off of the other two channels. In that case, the tweeters can have extra LF cut below 250Hz, in addition to the 5k factory passive.

CHAD

 
I kind of bought them on a whim to get another amazon purchase up to free shipping. They come with a crossover, so I'll just use that. I didn't really need them, but there are blown factory tweeters right there in the door. This will come as a complete shock to everyone, but the VM audio don't have much for crisp highs from the listening position.
Depending on what is needed, probably run the tweeters off of 2 channels of the Jensen and all 4 6.5s off of the other two channels. In that case, the tweeters can have extra LF cut below 250Hz, in addition to the 5k factory passive.

CHAD
Run the tweets off the HU instead.

 
Run the tweets off the HU instead.
That's not a bad idea. I was going to use the Jensen to give level control to the tweets. There are only 2 RCA sets, and the front set will go to the Jensen. This means I couldn't adjust levels between tweets and mids as well... at least that's what I'm thinking...

CHAD

 
That's not a bad idea. I was going to use the Jensen to give level control to the tweets. There are only 2 RCA sets, and the front set will go to the Jensen. This means I couldn't adjust levels between tweets and mids as well... at least that's what I'm thinking...
CHAD
Guessing the x-overs don't have level adjustments on them? Hopefully they don't need adjusting!

 
Guessing the x-overs don't have level adjustments on them? Hopefully they don't need adjusting!
Everhything needs adjusting, right?!? I couldn't find much specs for the crossovers except 12db/octave. Don't know frequency, and I presume no attenuator.

CHAD

 
Everhything needs adjusting, right?!? I couldn't find much specs for the crossovers except 12db/octave. Don't know frequency, and I presume no attenuator.
CHAD
Hmm not everything. At these prices, I think if it turns on...it's a victory. Kidding //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I say get rid of the factory tweets and just slap in the coaxials on the amp. If you feel like you need more high end, then install the tweeters then.

 
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