First post- opinions on my potential setup. SQ, Processors, components, Jeep.

OP, you've got a huge space advantage in that Grand Cherokee. Let us know how we can help, but I would honestly scrap 90 percent of what you've got listed right now.

 
What BnR is getting at is that the components you're selecting are more of a Daily Driver setup. An SQ setup normally includes a head unit with active processing or an external processor and a different choice in components. Also, there's considerably more time taken into driver placement than trying to shoehorn things into stock locations. Thing is, new Polk and new RE are not nearly what they used to be. Those MM comps are not like the SRs of the past in any way, shape, or form.
If you give us a total budget, we can definitely help you out, though. And by help, guys, I don't mean pimp out your own equipment *ahem*
Agh, okay. Speaker wise, i dont want to go over 350. I already have my amps, subs and h/u. My SE12's are from around 2009- new, in box.

I thought my H/U had processing, but I also asked about processors as i dont quite understand if they fit my application. It was suggested i didnt really need one, but if you think that would be a good help, i'm definitely open to suggestions.

 
also Knu 12 gauge is wayy overkill for your front and rear speakers...remember the power coming from the amp is AC not DC....16awg is more than enough 14 max especially if its knu...a lot easier to fish the wire through aswell

 
You did good on the amps. That Polk isn't shabby at all for its size and the older RE subs performed pretty dang decent. As for the speakers, definitely think you should nix the idea of going Polk. Their tweeters are god-awfully harsh unless the install is PERFECT. Have you considered having only a front stage so you can up your budget for the comps?

 
And on the processor end, you're right. I looked up some info on it and you do have AutoEQ and AutoTA which will make setup a million times easier, so no need for an external processor. Keep that as long as it runs.

 
Im sure you will be happy with it depending on what you have listened tooAnd that's where the issue is' date=' there isnt much SQ around here. At least, the people i know.. Most people think a "system" is a set of Duals from Best Buy and turned to max....

 

OP, you've got a huge space advantage in that Grand Cherokee. Let us know how we can help, but I would honestly scrap 90 percent of what you've got listed right now.
Ultimately, i dont want to use up all my cargo area or hack up door panels. I'm trying to not buy all new equipment, but again, i'm open to suggestions. I guess i mostly need help with speakers and amp (could sell my Polk PA660)
 
And that's where the issue is' date=' there isnt much SQ around here. At least, the people i know.. Most people think a "system" is a set of Duals from Best Buy and turned to max....[/quote']
That's why forums like this exist. There's enough SQ guys here to keep you on the right track.
 
Ultimately, i dont want to use up all my cargo area or hack up door panels. I'm trying to not buy all new equipment, but again, i'm open to suggestions. I guess i mostly need help with speakers and amp (could sell my Polk PA660)
Like I said before, you're fine with the amp you mentioned. Just keep your eyes on relatively efficient speakers. Not changing your rear speakers and letting them run off HU power will allow you to devote your $350 speaker budget to some really solid drivers/comp sets. That's a very good price point to be at.

 
You did good on the amps. That Polk isn't shabby at all for its size and the older RE subs performed pretty dang decent. As for the speakers, definitely think you should nix the idea of going Polk. Their tweeters are god-awfully harsh unless the install is PERFECT. Have you considered having only a front stage so you can up your budget for the comps?
I'd really prefer to have rear speakers because i do have passengers frequently.. Once i get my taxes back, i will be doing all the purchases, so i have time. I could probably do $450 on speakers..
also Knu 12 gauge is wayy overkill for your front and rear speakers...remember the power coming from the amp is AC not DC....16awg is more than enough 14 max especially if its knu...a lot easier to fish the wire through aswell
Got it, thanks. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif
And on the processor end, you're right. I looked up some info on it and you do have AutoEQ and AutoTA which will make setup a million times easier, so no need for an external processor. Keep that as long as it runs.
Good, cause i really like this deck. haha. I've had it in my foxbody for the past two years and every spring when i get it out of storage, it's like seeing an old friend..//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/nerd.gif.c6fa51ddf7ff75f1c0371fbc648f70ae.gif
 
I'd really prefer to have rear speakers because i do have passengers frequently.. Once i get my taxes back, i will be doing all the purchases, so i have time. I could probably do $450 on speakers..
I'd still recommend leaving your rear speakers stock and focusing on the front stage. I drive with passengers all the time in my VW and two government vehicles ('09 G6 and '10 Caravan), all of which have either no rear speakers or are faded completely to the front. I have yet to hear a single complaint.

 
Like I said before, you're fine with the amp you mentioned. Just keep your eyes on relatively efficient speakers. Not changing your rear speakers and letting them run off HU power will allow you to devote your $350 speaker budget to some really solid drivers/comp sets. That's a very good price point to be at.
Will running the stock speakers off the HU affect Sound quality overall or make tuning harder?

 
Will running the stock speakers off the HU affect Sound quality overall or make tuning harder?
The AutoTA should help out a ton with that, but IIRC, the active-capable Pioneer HUs also have level attenuation, so you can dial them back to the point where if you're not in the rear seats, you won't even know they're there.

 
The AutoTA should help out a ton with that, but IIRC, the active-capable Pioneer HUs also have level attenuation, so you can dial them back to the point where if you're not in the rear seats, you won't even know they're there.
The level attenuation, is that where you plug a mic in and it adjust levels while it plays, or am i totally wrong and need to do some reading?

 
That would be the AutoEQ/AutoTA. Level attenuation should be a setting where you can go driver by driver and tune their volumes down individually. It's really easy to access in my Eclipse. Makes tuning without AutoEQ/AutoTA a breeze.

 
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