Feedback on new amplifier/audio setup - 2011 M3

[ahas83]

I would like to get you guys feedback on a new amp for my 2011 e92 M3 (coupe) with the Individual Sound/Enhanced Premium Sound (EPS). I’m not very knowledgeable about car audio so need some input on how to proceed. I typically listen to hip hop/R&B/EDM/Pop music but typically don’t listen to music at high volume. The goal is to get to a point where I am happy with the sound quality at lower volumes. There are 2 things that I am unhappy with; the sub output and midbass in the current setup.

Currently I have a LC2i, JL JX500/1D amplifier (300W RMS at 4 ohm), hooked up to a JL Audio 12W3v3-4 subwoofer installed in my trunk in a sealed corner enclosure from Musicar. I also have 8" Bavsound Ghost Underseat Subwoofer (8 Ohm) driven by my OEM amp.

Bavsound Ghost Underseat Subwoofer (8 Ohm) specs:
Size: 200mm (8")
Material: Woven Fiberglass
Impedance: 8 Ohm
Frequency Response: 40Hz - 200Hz
Power Handling (RMS): 100W
Sensitivity: 73dB +- 2dB at 1m with 1W input

Since I don’t listen to music at high volume, the goal is to maximize the sub and midbass sound at lower volumes, and I think I am being limited for 2 reasons:

1) I think my JX500/1D amp may be too weak to drive the 12W3v3-4 sub in a sealed enclosure, especially at lower volumes, and
2) I don’t think the Bavsound Underseat ‘Subwoofers’ are getting the proper power from the OEM amplifier, especially at lower volumes.

I am thinking of getting a JL HD 900/5 (or JL VX1000/5i) amplifier and providing the 12” subwoofer with 500W RMS, and the Bavsound Underseat woofers roughly 100W at 8 ohms by bridging 2 channels and setting up my filters so they act more like mid-bass..

I’m also wondering if a DSP is needed to maximize the potential of the underseat woofer (midbass) and subwoofer. I know there are amps out there with DSP, but just not sure where to start or what I need.

If the Bavsound just wont get the ‘job done’, I’m open to getting new underseat 8” woofers such as Jehnert XE200 or ETON B150, but prefer to keep the Bavsound. I do not want to change any of the other speakers in the car.

Please provide any feedback on if going with a HD 900/5 is the best way to achieve my goals, or if there are different/better amplifiers (must be balanced inputs) or setups. Amplifier size is also important, so the smaller the better, and 1 amplifier vs 2 amplifiers.

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[hispls 5,000+ posts]

The issue you're going to run into trying to make something under the seat play "midbass" is that 50-300hz is where most vocals happen. Unlike your <80hz stuff that your sub is handling (low strings, drums, etc.) those vocals are very directional so you really really need the speakers doing that frequency range up in front of you and somewhere where they are at least somewhat directed towards your listening position ideally.

If your sub is struggling to get sound up out of the trunk (trunks in luxury cars are notoriously hard to get good bass up through) you should easily be able to throw a bigger amp on that and even upgrade the sub to a stouter power handling model as needed... bass is very easy to brute force.

I'd say your best bet would be to either attempt to upgrade whatever factory mid is in your doors to something that'll dig down a little deeper, you will definitely want to seal/deaden those doors for best results, or buy/build some custom kickpanel enclosures and throw a robust midbass woofer in those. The sticky part here will be how to start messing with your front stage piecemeal and getting it to blend in properly with everything else up front that's factory, including, I assume, the factory head unit.

Just my .02, dunno if this will help but some food for thought as you try to crack this problem.

 

[Scott2021]

Adding a subwoofer to a Stock equalized system can be problematic if not done right. If you tapped the stock subwoofer speakers you could be experiencing the stock system cutting out the low frequencies. JL Audio‘s new LOC combats this some, as does the Audio Control Pro LOC. You may want to try tapping the rear speakers in they are full range. You have plenty of power on the amp/sub. For improved mid bass, agree with last post… that’s your front stage. To do that, you would need DSP/Amp and speakers to do it right.

 

[Kickstand Premium Member]

I'm pretty sure the stereo in that car runs fiber optic
Mine was a 2010 and it had fiber optic
Something to keep in mind when looking for a DSP
I think if you want to get the sound you're looking for you need to look into a new box and a new amp
The M series didn't have as much sound deadening material in as the regular 3 series did (weight reduction) but there is still more than the average civic is going to have.
I think a ported box and a amp that puts out 500 watts @ 4 ohms will work
You can use that JX 500/1 to run the 8's under the seats (two 8's @ 8ohms each is a 4 ohm load ).
Just have to set the gain back a bit
The only other problem is the LC2i so you might have no choice in having to get a DSP
I can see you like JL but you can get better or equal equipment for way cheaper
For the price of one JL 12w3 you could have got 2 SSA Demons or 3 Soundqubed HDS2's
And If it were me I would stay away from those 5 channel amps
Subs were meant to have their own amp
Look at the SFB line from sundown and try Dayton for a DSP
You can probably pick them both up for under $300
If you are not handy with woodworking then have whatever shop you go to build you a box