OP
i2ain2thunder 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
- Thread Starter
- #16
I'm in the general discussion here buddy, take it easy. Relax and enjoy the thread.i take it the search button still doesnt work
I'm in the general discussion here buddy, take it easy. Relax and enjoy the thread.i take it the search button still doesnt work
Thanks for the information on conventional theory AC flow.Is an interesting post im curious what difference the flow is in the case of car audio, its an argument that really has nothing to do with our systems other than what we hook our red and black wire to, but to more confuse or enlighten you yes Electrons flow from Negative to positive, but conventional current flows from positive to negative, its all relative and makes no difference. diagrams and circuit designers will use conventional due to how the items in the circuit were origionally thought to how current flows, Its just how and whos looking at it. 1+2 is the same as 2+1, Conventional Versus Electron Flow : Basic Concepts Of Electricity - Electronics Textbook its what is used as ground, or chassis ground, or Floating ground, thats whats important since neg is generally used as the ground that is why why fuse the positive terminal of the battery.
What Direction this thread should really head in is maximizing these principals for maximum efficiency, i.e voltage,current loss, wire resistance, I agree with Fasfocus00 your alternator is probly the most important part of your sytem. everything else is used to try and get the maximum efficiency of that alternator. Big 3, power wire size, length, speaker wire size, length, all decisions with those will never get you more than what your alternator can put out,
Batteries, can be seen as use in a few different ways, #1 if you dont got the alternator to keep up batteries may give you enough for your SPL burp or to impress your friends with max power for a limited amount of time, #2 just an extention of your alternator to maximize efficiency. and too keep your system at its max potential at all times.
Capacitors, generally in smaller systems , not so much to keep lights from dimming but more to keep consistant power going to your amp, not always needed most amps have these caps inside them just not as big, can be helpful and now days are pretty cheap.
The rest is just calcs that you can easily find on the internet that will tell you your power, wattage, current, etc loss on your wiring, You either spend the money on the wiring to not lose what your subs, speakers can handle or buy an amp that can put out more power to compensate for your loss. Which all of this can me tested with a DMM and a clamp.
kind of an inside joke for those of us who have been here long enough. please continue.I'm in the general discussion here buddy, take it easy. Relax and enjoy the thread.
teehee.i take it the search button still doesnt work
google is down //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suicide.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gifi take it the search button still doesnt work
VFDs are fun. Not so in this case. 900A ?Ive been hospitalized by a frequency drive feed with 480 volts blowing up in my face with a York Centrifugal chiller pulling 900 amps on the other end. I really hate electricity .