Thanks for using our products anyway! The World Wide Web and someone from a neighboring city from me calls me SPAM...lol//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/spam.gif.770e8a3f2b49d455411585e06ac0aa10.gif
but regardless i do prefer yellowtops for ease of return if i eve have a problem with them
oh shit i just realized youre from Pigeon ForgeThanks for using our products anyway! The World Wide Web and someone from a neighboring city from me calls me SPAM...lol
LOL, yeah and a car guy for many years too. I really wasn't trying to sell our battery, just make sure the OP gets the right one for his application. Look me up next time you come over for a carshow, I am easy to find.oh shit i just realized youre from Pigeon Forge
Like the rod runs? ive never seen a optima booth up there.LOL, yeah and a car guy for many years too. I really wasn't trying to sell our battery, just make sure the OP gets the right one for his application. Look me up next time you come over for a carshow, I am easy to find.Bill Howell
is this the same type of battery thats in the saturn ion redline?Our car uses a g91 batt too. Hard to find those
Where in the hell are you shopping that a Big 3 costs over $100?! I did mine for $30 with room to spare. I understand you need to go from the alternator to the rear of the car for the battery, but even all that... shouldn't be over $80 if you get a bad deal. And that's assuming you go with OFC wire.- The Big 3 really pushes my budget considering supplies for it alone are $100 for the 0 AWG + terminals(ring and batt), including the parts to crimp and solder I don't own and the knowledge to correctly tear apart my car... don't wanna pay BestBuy $80 to do it either.
Where in the hell are you shopping that a Big 3 costs over $100?! I did mine for $30 with room to spare. I understand you need to go from the alternator to the rear of the car for the battery' date=' but even all that... shouldn't be over $80 if you get a bad deal. And that's assuming you go with OFC wire.Parts to crimp? That's a hammer. You put the wire in the terminal, and hammer it down. It's very simple to do, you just remove some bolts, put the ring terminals in place with the wire, and then replace the bolts. Done.[/quote']
yep i just used a Large sized phillips head screw driver and a hammer. and bam ghetto crimp
On the very high end. I think I used 6 feet... I've got a small car, but my alternator is on the opposite side and bottom end from my battery. Keep in my the Battery to ground is usually like 6" or less. the engine block to ground is typically at most 2 feet.How many ft of 0guage do you need for a standard big 3 upgrade w/o the battery on the back? 10 ft maybe?
I believe so...Like the rod runs? ive never seen a optima booth up there.
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is this the same type of battery thats in the saturn ion redline?
our batt is in the trunk. The alt to batt wire is like 16 ft by itself. OP if you get the same extra batt I have you will be good up to 2k easily. Like I said I stay at 13.9 with maybe a .1 drop every now and then. I play all the way to work which is 30 mins from me no problems running at 1ohm on my 2k. Unless you are playing tones constantly I don't see the need for the big 3 in our cars. This is coming from someone who has experience with the same car as yours.i think i have 4.5 total feet in my big 3
On the very high end. I think I used 6 feet... I've got a small car' date=' but my alternator is on the opposite side and bottom end from my battery. Keep in my the Battery to ground is usually like 6" or less. the engine block to ground is typically at most 2 feet.[/quote']
Nice... I guess I'll just measure what's already there.
Do you recommend a place to buy the wire and terminals besides knukonceptz?
Audio TechnixNice... I guess I'll just measure what's already there.
Do you recommend a place to buy the wire and terminals besides knukonceptz?