Do i need class D?

[bump465]

You do not need to give your CDT 6.8s more power. That will eventually destroy them. What I suspect is going on is you want more volume yet you're fighting physics due to low driver sensitivity. What model are your CDT woofers? How are they installed? What are your crossover settings?

i got the es series, orange basket. they are rated at either 150 or 200w, i forget. originally on the zapco they were run on 150w and the speakers did great. The audison only does 65w but i decided it was worth it if my amp would actually work.

my primary goal is not to make my speakers louder but to find a solution to powering them continously without issues.

If the solution is buying a new amp I want to make sure it is powerful enough to drive the speakers to their full potential.

the speakers would be 200rms x4 so, I didnt think 250 x4 was that much overkill.

Speakers are in stock locations on a 4 door vehicle. I see crossovers as a secondary form of protection so usually set them pretty high. for 65 watts i think im set at -12db at 80-100hz range. If i gave my speakers 200/250watts id probably cut a fair amount of midbass out maybe 125-160hz at -24db. id play it by ear.

hell I gave my 45 watt kicker 5.25 coaxials 105watts and it did amazing with a filter at 125. and I mean CDT>Kicker

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

i got the es series, orange basket. they are rated at either 150 or 200w, i forget. originally on the zapco they were run on 150w and the speakers did great. The audison only does 65w but i decided it was worth it if my amp would actually work. my primary goal is not to make my speakers louder but to find a solution to powering them continously without issues.

If the solution is buying a new amp I want to make sure it is powerful enough to drive the speakers to their full potential.

the speakers would be 200rms x4 so, I didnt think 250 x4 was that much overkill.

Speakers are in stock locations on a 4 door vehicle. I see crossovers as a secondary form of protection so usually set them pretty high. for 65 watts i think im set at -12db at 80-100hz range. If i gave my speakers 200/250watts id probably cut a fair amount of midbass out maybe 125-160hz at -24db. id play it by ear.

hell I gave my 45 watt kicker 5.25 coaxials 105watts and it did amazing with a filter at 125. and I mean CDT>Kicker

Bear in mind the difference between 125W and 250W is going to only be the equivalent of 2 clicks on your head unit volume (assuming a 0-35 dial) at best. For the money, trouble, and risk (or breaking speakers) of going 250 you gain very little real-world.

 

[bump465]

Bear in mind the difference between 125W and 250W is going to only be the equivalent of 2 clicks on your head unit volume (assuming a 0-35 dial) at best. For the money, trouble, and risk (or breaking speakers) of going 250 you gain very little real-world.

Isn't x2 power = up to +3db?

So therotically from 65w to 260w I'd gain up to +6db.

Even if it's only "2 clicks of volume" I'd call that very significant.

Are you saying the cdt es can't handle an extra 50w?

Or are you saying it's not practical to find an amp to power them?

As long as I'm not sending them 20 hertz at max power, what's the problem?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Isn't x2 power = up to +3db?So therotically from 65w to 260w I'd gain up to +6db.

Even if it's only "2 clicks of volume" I'd call that very significant.

Are you saying the cdt es can't handle an extra 50w?

Or are you saying it's not practical to find an amp to power them?

As long as I'm not sending them 20 hertz at max power, what's the problem?

One volume knob click (0-35) is about 1.5dB. My point is that the more common 100-150W per channel size amp should be PLENTY and little is to be gained by holding out for bigger.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

i got the es series, orange basket. they are rated at either 150 or 200w, i forget.

The power handling might be 200W if it's for a set of mid-woofers, tweeters, and passive crossovers. The small subwoofer/midbass drivers get up there in power handling; it would be great if you had the model number of the ES Gold woofers, or pictures showing the front and the back.

I've tried running under 100W RMS and also 250W RMS without changing the CDT ES-06 midbass drivers. I really wanted to hear a new level of powerful attack and thump from those drivers, but I wasn't the difference by increasing the available power was worth it. I did learn that I didn't blow up the speakers, but by increasing the high pass frequency and slope it also reduces the average power to those channels.