Dimming any solution ?

[h2h0e]

Hi here my setup , 1 audiopipe apsm 2000 , 2 dayton RSS315HO-44 ,1 ohm wired ,Big 3 with 0 gauge.

4 gauge of knukonceptz kolussus . stock battery stock alternator , my car is an elantra 2012 , i think my lights start dimming around 400 rms and around 500 its too much. what should i go to resolve this , a kinetik battery will resolve this ? and if yes should i kept my stock car baterry and wire in parellel ? or can i just remplace my stock with this kinetik battery ?

Click to read more...

 

[tdford5 10+ year member]

Look up on like advanced auto to find out ur amparage of alt that's where I'd start ..I was running 1600 watt off stock alt and battery with big 3 and all 0awg wireing.. But my stock alt was 130 amp

 

[h2h0e]

Look up on like advanced auto to find out ur amparage of alt that's where I'd start ..I was running 1600 watt off stock alt and battery with big 3 and all 0awg wireing.. But my stock alt was 130 amp

looks like my stock alternator is 90 amp but im not getting 1600w only like 500w and its dimming hard

 

[SinfulCustoms]

Most car audio batteries are not suitable for "under hood" applications. You should either run a dual battery setup with an isolator, or a capacitor near the amp. It is usually recommended to get 1 Farad of cap power per 1000W of amp power. Caps are cheaper, but the dual battery setup will help to avoid any no-starts due to playing your system too long without starting the vehicle.

 

[h2h0e]

what if i only remplace my stock baterry with a kinetik one without running dual battery

 

[NIHL8ION]

Check your ground, Don't just ground to a piece of sheet metal in your trunk, ground to a shock / strut tower bolt, or a seat-belt harness bolt. Make sure there's no paint or coating on the metal...

 

[SinfulCustoms]

If you want to keep it to one battery, I would try something like an Optima Yellow Top. It will work for both the under hood needs & the needs of your audio system. I ran into a similar issue when designing my last system, and the manufacturer did not recommend using an audio battery as the vehicle's main power supply. I think it has to do with the charge / discharge characteristics of the audio battery.

 

[NIHL8ION]

I have a Stock alt (85 amp) and I used to run my stock batt without issue (I changed it to a yellow top optima just cuz I got a killer deal on it) Big 3 & Single run of 0 gauge. I'm running a Rockford Fosgate RFC10HB capacitor, 1200w rms @ 1 ohm (sub) , 600w rms @ 2 ohm stereo x2 (4 channel - Front & rear), & my lights don't dim at all...

 

[h2h0e]

Check your ground, Don't just ground to a piece of sheet metal in your trunk, ground to a shock / strut tower bolt, or a seat-belt harness bolt. Make sure there's no paint or coating on the metal...

yea ive screw it in my trunk , ive sand the paint before tought .

 

[NIHL8ION]

yea ive screw it in my trunk , ive sand the paint before tought .

Find a good spot like the one's I mentioned above that's not just a piece of sheet metal, this in it's self will make all the difference in the world & prevent unnecessary damage to your amp(s) & electrical system ;-)

 

[h2h0e]

Find a good spot like the one's I mentioned above that's not just a piece of sheet metal, this in it's self will make all the difference in the world & prevent unnecessary damage to your amp(s) & electrical system ;-)

ill try that first , ty .

 

---------- Post added at 06:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 PM ----------

 

If you want to keep it to one battery, I would try something like an Optima Yellow Top. It will work for both the under hood needs & the needs of your audio system. I ran into a similar issue when designing my last system, and the manufacturer did not recommend using an audio battery as the vehicle's main power supply. I think it has to do with the charge / discharge characteristics of the audio battery.

optima yellow better than kinetik 800 ?

 

[Steveopevo 10+ year member]

Don't run 2 batts without a bigger alt. best bet is to replace under the hood with kinetic, stinger, odyssey dry cell

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Most car audio batteries are not suitable for "under hood" applications. You should either run a dual battery setup with an isolator, or a capacitor near the amp. It is usually recommended to get 1 Farad of cap power per 1000W of amp power. Caps are cheaper, but the dual battery setup will help to avoid any no-starts due to playing your system too long without starting the vehicle.

If you want to keep it to one battery, I would try something like an Optima Yellow Top. It will work for both the under hood needs & the needs of your audio system. I ran into a similar issue when designing my last system, and the manufacturer did not recommend using an audio battery as the vehicle's main power supply. I think it has to do with the charge / discharge characteristics of the audio battery.

OP, do not use a cap, and do not use a Yellow Top. If you understood how caps work, you would understand why. Do a search, there is plenty of info on this site. Also, Optima's quality has gone down recently since they moved their plant. I personally bought a brand new Yellowtop that fell to a resting voltage of 12.2 in 3 months. I'm not the only one that has bad issues.

 

[Steveopevo 10+ year member]

Another issue with yellow tops is that being a deep cycle battery means it will not move energy as fast as a regular Agm. There only better for listening to music with the car turned off for longer periods of time but don't charge or release energy as quickly. Red top will be better for dimming.

 

[NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts]

Don't run 2 batts without a bigger alt. best bet is to replace under the hood with kinetic, stinger, odyssey dry cell

Wtf are you talking about lol ..u can run multiple batts on stock alt..wow...and dont worry about kinetic or optima...go to sams and get their duracell agm ..unless someone around u sells deka agm batts..they r the best bang for.the buck...and yes fix that ground.. how do u figure u are getting 500rns from that anp? how.did u set he gains?