Diagnosing this sound

edoo244

CarAudio.com Newbie
I did my own install on 2015 Accord. Stock deck, replaced front speakers with mids and highs up front, 1 sub, 2 amps, and a DSP in trunk. It sounds fine until I get to a certain power range then some distortion that sounds "like lightning" starts coming through the speakers. A couple ideas I have are: All the wires that are ran on the drivers side - it has 8 awg power line powering two amps and dsp in trunk. The stock speaker leads I ran to the trunk for my audio source. The 12 Volt turn-on, and return lines from the amps to the speakers. There's also some stock electrical running along that side. Also, my ground might not be perfect. Found a hole behind back seat, sanded it and found a bolt that locked down my ground and even added a little solder.
Any thoughts? Lightning sound is the best I can describe it - very scratchy and powerful - takes over all audio.
 
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I did my own install on 2015 Accord. Stock deck, replaced front speakers with mids and highs up front, 1 sub, 2 amps, and a DSP in trunk. It sounds fine until I get to a certain power range then when something that sounds "like lightning" starts coming through the speakers. A couple ideas I have are: All the wires that are ran on the drivers side - it has 8 awg power line powering two amps and dsp in trunk. The stock speaker leads I ran to the trunk for my audio source. The 12 Volt turn-on, and return lines from the amps to the speakers. There's also some stock electrical running along that side. Also, my ground might not be perfect. Found a hole behind back seat, sanded it and found a bolt that locked down my ground and even added a little solder.
Any thoughts? Lightning sound is the best I can describe it - very scratchy and powerful - takes over all audio.
It sounds like you're experiencing electrical interference or some form of distortion in your setup, which can manifest as a "lightning" or scratchy sound when you push the audio to a certain power level. Here are some troubleshooting steps and considerations to help you resolve this issue:

1. **Ground Connection**:
- Ensure that your ground connection is solid. You mentioned sanding the area and using a bolt, which is good. However, consider using a thicker gauge wire for the ground connection if you haven't already, and make sure the connection is made to bare metal with good contact.
- Check for any corrosion or rust that might affect the connection.

2. **Power Wiring**:
- The 8 AWG power wire should be sufficient for your amps, but double-check the specifications of the amps to ensure they are not drawing more current than the wire can handle.
- Make sure the power wire is routed away from any signal wires (RCA cables) to prevent interference. If possible, run power and ground wires on one side of the vehicle and signal wires on the other.

3. **Signal Wiring**:
- If you're using the stock speaker leads to send audio to the trunk, inspect those wires for any damage or interference. Consider using shielded RCA cables instead of speaker wire for the connection to the DSP to reduce noise.
- Ensure that all connections are secure and that there are no loose or frayed wires.

4. **DSP Settings**:
- Check the settings on your DSP. If the gain is set too high, it may clip the signal when you push the volume, resulting in distortion. Adjust the gain settings to ensure they are balanced and not overdriving the input.
- If your DSP has a low-pass filter, ensure it is set appropriately for your subwoofer to prevent it from trying to reproduce higher frequencies that can cause distortion.

5. **Amplifier Gain Settings**:
- Make sure that the gains on your amplifiers are set correctly. If they are too high, they will introduce distortion. Start with the gain set low and gradually increase it while listening for distortion.

6. **Testing Components**:
- If possible, isolate each component one at a time to determine if one specific part (like the DSP or one of the amplifiers) is causing the issue. Test each amp individually with known working speakers to rule out any defective equipment.

7. **Environmental Factors**:
- Sometimes, interference can be caused by other electronic devices or components in the vehicle. Try to identify if the sound occurs only when certain devices are in use (like the vehicle's electrical system or other aftermarket installations).

If you've gone through all these steps and the issue persists, it may be beneficial to consult with a professional installer who can perform more in-depth diagnostics on-site.

Feel free to ask for further clarification on any of these points, and if there are any other members with experience in similar setups, please chime in!
 
see if its a particular speaker, or all of them...
I was getting a loud crackling sound from my passenger side 6.5" Focal K2 in the door...
Sounded like the speaker blew on certain volume level...
Turns out the speaker was being over extended past its mechanical ability & just needed a slight dsp fz tweak...
just trimmed the hz range some till the speaker no-longer cracked.
It sounded bad.....
That would be my guess.

Reproduce the noise & try to isolate putting your ear on the door speakers, etc.
 
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Sounds like lead slap or push the speaker pass xmech. You've reached the speakers physical limits.
Yes, this is what im trying to convey....
Not a good sound....:rolleyes:

we know its amateur hour on my end compared to some of you here when it comes to this shit but im confident on this one from the Op's description....
100% start there vs what was suggested above, pulling amps apart....

Its in his tune....
 
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edoo244

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