Deadening trunk lid

[shammyhavik]

Today is the day I finally receive a giant box of stinger roadkill sound deadening material.

The box is giant, no kidding, 40 pounds of pure goodness

Now that I have the golden goose I wanna milk it for all it's worth. So my question is how would you guys deaden this trunk lid right here that i'm about to post.

As you can see there's a lot of little holes that are unmanageable with a roller or tennis ball. I was thinking CCF for metal on metal and insulation stuffed into the other gaps.

also there's some more holes on the top of the trunk lid, (license plate side) but those are a lot more manageable to fit CLD tiles and a roller into.

Is it the best to lay the deadener as close to a full sheet as possible or do I cut it to smaller squares and fill in by patches?

I was thinking to cover the holes with a huge sheet of deadener by it's then probably MLV over that.

Oh yeah also has anyone mastered sunroof deadening? I don't mean to stop flexing or anything but the **** thing slaps the frame of the car causing a horrible noise. I am already gonna experiment with CCF but I want the sunroof to still function and open up. Tips r appreciated yo

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[C1500martin 10+ year member]

little advice wrap those edges first or you'll end up with hands cut to hell..i learned the hard way lol

 

[shammyhavik]

hah good to know, i plan on using work gloves anyways cuz this stuff can get messy i've heard

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

If you have no use at all with those holes(light access), fill it in with greatstuff expanding foam. On curved reinforced areas, you dont need coverage. Only the flat flimsy panels need deadening.

You will want to take out your rear deck and deaden the rear deck along with the rear deck panels and put foam anywhere plastic and metal touches and vibrates against eachother.

 

[CSCStang]

25% coverage with the roadkill. Ccf or cld between any pieces of metal that will rattle against each other especially at the tach welds.