db level for my subs ?

[IH8RICE 10+ year member]

ne one got ne ideas what ill hit for dB 2 12inch Ma Audio hard kore subs, 4400 rms Ma Audio mono amp, 5 farad cap, and 2 extra batteries whole cars dynamated too headliner doors and trunk. thinkin 155 easy.

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[Matador 10+ year member]

since they are the hard kore subs, i'll say high 150s

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

so you like MA, i have an amp from them, sounds like 2 x2's and 1 Hk802 sx. i dont think 155. http://www.termpro.com/asp/competitorstats.asp?Competitor_ID=42642 has almost the same setup. he is on ma audio forum. davesexlporer.

 

[Bumpin' Yota 10+ year member]

termlab sensor and metered legally-

143

hatchback

146

Those number are the absolute most in a conventional street install. I've got 1000 bux that says you cant get a legal 155 from a street b install with what you've listed.

no offense intended.

 

[Qckrun 10+ year member]

definately not 155... maybe id 140s if that.

 

[IH8RICE 10+ year member]

so you like MA, i have an amp from them, sounds like 2 x2's and 1 Hk802 sx. i dont think 155. http://www.termpro.com/asp/competitorstats.asp?Competitor_ID=42642 has almost the same setup. he is on ma audio forum. davesexlporer.

this guys running a 1000 watt amp i have 2200 rms to each sub. each sub will be in 4 cubic feet. tuning i dont know yet going to tune it to the specs the sub came with theres a chevy blazer with 2 12inch Ma Audio subs that are one level lower than the hard kore subs and he's using a 3600 rms Ma Audio amp (I believe any way). his box i dont know about buts its massive he hit 143 on our meter. the way i see it he was the loudest truck until i get him. ive got the hard kore 12inch subs and the 4400 rms amp plus im using 4 8 volt batteries wired in pairs to make 2 16 volt power sources for the amp and a 5 farad Ma Audio capacitor. 155 is the goal if i dont hit it im going ot rip out the back seat of my grand prix and make the box bigger!

 

[Tros 10+ year member]

Why dont you remove the cap since it is an electrical load which in turn hurts your dB numbers...?

Chris Trostle

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

this guys running a 1000 watt amp i have 2200 rms to each sub. each sub will be in 4 cubic feet. tuning i dont know yet going to tune it to the specs the sub came with theres a chevy blazer with 2 12inch Ma Audio subs that are one level lower than the hard kore subs and he's using a 3600 rms Ma Audio amp (I believe any way). his box i dont know about buts its massive he hit 143 on our meter. the way i see it he was the loudest truck until i get him. ive got the hard kore 12inch subs and the 4400 rms amp plus im using 4 8 volt batteries wired in pairs to make 2 16 volt power sources for the amp and a 5 farad Ma Audio capacitor. 155 is the goal if i dont hit it im going ot rip out the back seat of my grand prix and make the box bigger!

that doesn't mean **** buddy!!!! It's not ur product...it's knowledge and install. If you have to ask us if ur going to hit 155...it's not going to happen. OBVIOUSLY you are not knowledgeable enough...and, it's all in the install and countless hours of testing, tweeking, and more testing. peace

NG

 

[IH8RICE 10+ year member]

dude ur lost who ever posted before this my stuff isnt in yet i was just wondering what every one thought i might hit. all the equipment is in my room im building the box now with the help of the guy that runs the comps here. any way ive got more power and more RMS that that guy but like u said its all about the install mines not done yet i dont know i might not even hit 130 if i don't ill be redoing the box the next weekend. I do realize that tweaking and testing is every thing thats why ive got the guy that runs the comps helping me, and ive known the guy for a long time he's not gonna screw me over goal is to beat the guy with 143db in that blazer.

 

[Bumpin' Yota 10+ year member]

Nice, I'm glad you posted that. It clears a lot up.

You should be able to best a legal 143 from a blazer with that equipment with a decent install. (Without 16v)

As to getting a 155, that's going to take more power than you've got unless you build a wall and even then its going to be REALLY **** hard. I wish you the best of luck however. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Also if you run 16v are you sure the capacitor will even function at that high of a voltage? Keep in mind that a 16v system when fully charged floats at 17.3-17.4 vdc. In all honesty loose the 5 farad cap. Also you have to address charging the 16v battery rack, and then address how it should be properly wired up so that nothing blows up. (No you can't put 16+v to a REM+ unless you want to see some smoke....)

 

[IH8RICE 10+ year member]

im thinking of getting rid of the 5 farad capacitor and getting a flux high current capacitor from hlabs technologies. i know that the 16 volt system will fry every thing in the car thats why there are diaodes everywhere and a couple fuses so that power will flow to the 16 volt sources but not back into the 12 volt system. so actually i think i do know what im doing thanx to the guy who ever posted before me for not bashing god that gets sickning. 155 is the goal but if i hit 144 ive still beat that blazer and actually its a cocky kid that i cant stand hope i blow his **** away!

My amp will take 17.4 volts max current

so will the 5 farad cap that i have now so what i have now will work but i might get a different capacitor

http://www.hlabs.com/technical/fluxpower/page2.html

this is how it will be set up

now tell me i dont know much about car audio!

 

[Bumpin' Yota 10+ year member]

im thinking of getting rid of the 5 farad capacitor and getting a flux high current capacitor from hlabs technologies. i know that the 16 volt system will fry every thing in the car thats why there are diaodes everywhere and a couple fuses so that power will flow to the 16 volt sources but not back into the 12 volt system. so actually i think i do know what im doing thanx to the guy who ever posted before me for not bashing god that gets sickning. 155 is the goal but if i hit 144 ive still beat that blazer and actually its a cocky kid that i cant stand hope i blow his **** away!
My amp will take 17.4 volts max current

so will the 5 farad cap that i have now so what i have now will work but i might get a different capacitor

http://www.hlabs.com/technical/fluxpower/page2.html

this is how it will be set up

now tell me i dont know much about car audio!

Do you realise you are coming across as being cocky yourself? Just wondering if you knew that... Sure being cocky feels good for you, but it makes others dislike ya. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Anyhow that setup should work well, I wish they had that transforming unit when I was running a rather large 16v battery rack. Just get the HLabs flux cap that isolates the 16v from the 12v. I see that they suggested the stiffening cap for the amps, but for spl stiffening caps are a waste of money that could be spent on a good alternator.

Also keep in mind that while the amps power supplies will be fed 17+ volts the remote turn ons must be fed no higher than 14volts. Just keep in mind that the 16v battery rack must share the same ground as the HU whose remote turn on, turns on you amps. If both units do not share the same ground you wont get the amps to come online.

Since you already have the equipment, there's no sense in advising you to get different stuff, so ya may as well make this stuff as loud as possible.

You are in a mid sized SUV, so I would highly suggest for the box to be a CRX style box with the subs firing up and the ports firing back. Each sub should be in it's own chamber. Total of four 4" PNR ports ~15" long from flange to flange. Box size should be dictated by the sub's compliance and the real power applied. For a good starting size for the box, plug that subs TS parameters into a box program.

A very good box program to use is winISDalpha, which can be downloaded for free from http://www.linearteam.org

I'd also highly recommend a high output alternator. http://www.hoalternators.com

 

[IH8RICE 10+ year member]

my alternator pushes 180 amps!! so ill see how that works them maybe go bigger. the only thing i dont have yet is the hlabs capacitor. and if u look at the diagram i posted the 8 volt batteries and the 5 farad capacitor ill be using all their own grounds! there are 3 grounds in the diagram i posted. plus the amp has a ground too not pictured in the diagram.

im running this system in a 1995 pontiac grand prix GTP there will be at least 4 cubic feet for each sub. and one port going through the arm rest of my back seat so the box will be ported to the inside of my car thats why the headliner and doors are dynamated

 

[Alpine CDA-9815 10+ year member]

155... I highly doubt it, maybe mid 140's.

 

[Bumpin' Yota 10+ year member]

ooooooh I thought you had an SUV too not a trunk car....

You should still be able to beat that dudes 143 though with just a little bit of testing on a meter. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

And what i meant was that whatever is turning on your amps needs to share a ground with the 16v bat rack so it will complete the circuit. That's all. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif