Creating a seperate electrical setup for system

viperrgh2
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
So my town car died and I ripped out my entire system. It's now going into my 91' 940 volvo. I'm afriad the system is going to kill the factory electric since I did it to my lincoln I feel. Anyways I'm running 1400watts rms to 2 MAW-15s and my four speakers. I mouted a second after market crome alternator I has a red and black mount for the wires and then a center two prong connector. Anyone know what that connector is for? Can I ignore it and just run my +/- to my batt? Also all I have enuff of to run to the amps and back (closed circuit not grounded to the car) is Knukonceptz 4 gauge, from the research I read on 4 gauge seems to be an adequate amount for this wattage but with the ground wire comming all the way back to under the hook also, I'm worried... Any opinions welcomed. Setup is in sig.

 
So my town car died and I ripped out my entire system. It's now going into my 91' 940 volvo. I'm afriad the system is going to kill the factory electric since I did it to my lincoln I feel. Anyways I'm running 1400watts rms to 2 MAW-15s and my four speakers. I mouted a second after market crome alternator I has a red and black mount for the wires and then a center two prong connector. Anyone know what that connector is for? Can I ignore it and just run my +/- to my batt? Also all I have enuff of to run to the amps and back (closed circuit not grounded to the car) is Knukonceptz 4 gauge, from the research I read on 4 gauge seems to be an adequate amount for this wattage but with the ground wire comming all the way back to under the hook also, I'm worried... Any opinions welcomed. Setup is in sig.
4 AWG is not adequate for 1400 RMS. It's pushing for 1000. For 1400 you need about 2 or 0 AWG. Preferably 0 AWG. As for thos "connectors". I believe they're voltage regulators. With out them, your alt will fry.

 
So my town car died and I ripped out my entire system. It's now going into my 91' 940 volvo. I'm afriad the system is going to kill the factory electric since I did it to my lincoln I feel. Anyways I'm running 1400watts rms to 2 MAW-15s and my four speakers. I mouted a second after market crome alternator I has a red and black mount for the wires and then a center two prong connector. Anyone know what that connector is for? Can I ignore it and just run my +/- to my batt? Also all I have enuff of to run to the amps and back (closed circuit not grounded to the car) is Knukonceptz 4 gauge, from the research I read on 4 gauge seems to be an adequate amount for this wattage but with the ground wire comming all the way back to under the hook also, I'm worried... Any opinions welcomed. Setup is in sig.
yes that connector is the voltage regulator you need to have it hooked up.

 
No the alt wasnt made for the car thats why I'm asking what can I hook it up to, I was told by someone volt regs are built in and wouldent be a problem but I guess it is... can I buy a volt reg for it?

 
No the alt wasnt made for the car thats why I'm asking what can I hook it up to, I was told by someone volt regs are built in and wouldent be a problem but I guess it is... can I buy a volt reg for it?
so the alt didn't even come with a built in volt reg?

 
i dont know what the 2 prong plug goes to. i know one of the prongs needs to ground on the alternator casing, and the other goes somewhere else. Mine goes into my wire harness so i have no idea where it goes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
so the alt didn't even come with a built in volt reg?
Most likely the two prongs he's talking about is the internal regulator. I'm not familiar enough with how a reguatlor works to know, but you may require an external regulator for what you're looking for. The problem is, you can't splice into your existing regulator harness, since you want to keep your stereo seperated from your car electrical. That means the computer controlled regulator will not detect the voltage dropping from your audio equipment and the alternator will always output the bare minimum. What I'm not sure about is if you can run the 2 wires you need from the positive/gnd wire of your audio. I don't think this will work, because I believe the car computer plays a role in the regulation. For this reason, you'd need an external regulator. One that has its own 'brain' so you can wire it to your audio electrical.

 
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viperrgh2

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