Covering up door holes

[klepto 10+ year member]

Now after tearing off my stock dampling foam i found quite the pleasant suprise... a door filled with more gaping holes that a ***** house. Here is a pic...



Now i know the larger holes i have to patch up with sheet metal and silicone sealant, then cover with dampner...but can i just will the smaller holes with a sheet of dampner? Im talking like 1-2 inch wide. And also, have any of you seen a door this bad before and what kind of time can i expect to put in on it?

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[acold7dusta 10+ year member]

plexi glass for the big stuff

 

[klepto 10+ year member]

plexi glass for the big stuff

Where can i get plexi and how do i cut it?

 

[wlmrs 10+ year member]

They sell it at homedepot in the millwork dept along with the cutters.It also comes with cutting instructions.

 

[klepto 10+ year member]

I think i need something more flexible to mold to the holes. Any ideas?

 

[MustangGT25YRS 10+ year member]

I think i need something more flexible to mold to the holes. Any ideas?

********************^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^**************************

Hi Klepto,

You can use a couple of pieces of damping mat for the smaller holes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif.A curved Punch Hole is difficult....But I believe you got the right Idea on the sheet metal.Of course you know you'll need to fasten it with "Short Self/Tapping Screws".

You should use like a construction paper and a Sharpie or Pencil to make a Template of each of the big holes...Trial Fit...Trim Maybe..Re-Fit.You can than use the sme templates you used on one door...flip it around and use it say...on the Pass. door.Make sure you leave enough sheet metal around the holes to allow you to screw that to the door skin!!!.You have to watch where you put the screws...Wires/Cables/Moving Parts/etc.And "Poke Small Holes" thru the paper,and mark on the door skin where you want to put the screws.Take A sharp metal punch or awl,and where you made the marks on the door skin..Strike the punch w/a hammer to make a dimple in the door skin.I would in that case drill a small pilot hole into each dimple to make sure the screws "won't drift.Dill Holes in the Sheet Metal piece Before you silicone it.This will make it easier for you toThen you Trace it out on the sheet metal.

*The Amount of Time* spent on doing this Depends..."On You".If you take your time,which you should with the sheet metal,It's tedious...Believe Me...but The rewards will be //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif .If you can...use 2 or 3 layers of matting(Depending on Brand and your Budget) on the inner door skin.You can do the outer skin...but that's a big help too.

On my 1989/Mustang-GT..I used 1/8" Flat Aluminum Plate to seal the punch holes in my Door Skins.It wasn't an issue w/moulding or anything...'cause the holes were all flat..Thank God!!!!!!.But cutting the aluminum was a real Biatch to do using a milk crate and a Jig Saw .But I did it....and put 3-Layers of Matting on each inner door skin.

All The Best With Your Project....and remember...*Patience IS A Virtue*.

Kind Regards/

 

[thehardknoxlife 10+ year member]

I deadned my door then put cardboard over the holes, after that I put deadner over the cardboard. It works pretty good and it's really cheap.

 

[klepto 10+ year member]

********************^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^**************************Hi Klepto,

You can use a couple of pieces of damping mat for the smaller holes //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif.A curved Punch Hole is difficult....But I believe you got the right Idea on the sheet metal.Of course you know you'll need to fasten it with "Short Self/Tapping Screws".

You should use like a construction paper and a Sharpie or Pencil to make a Template of each of the big holes...Trial Fit...Trim Maybe..Re-Fit.You can than use the sme templates you used on one door...flip it around and use it say...on the Pass. door.Make sure you leave enough sheet metal around the holes to allow you to screw that to the door skin!!!.You have to watch where you put the screws...Wires/Cables/Moving Parts/etc.And "Poke Small Holes" thru the paper,and mark on the door skin where you want to put the screws.Take A sharp metal punch or awl,and where you made the marks on the door skin..Strike the punch w/a hammer to make a dimple in the door skin.I would in that case drill a small pilot hole into each dimple to make sure the screws "won't drift.Dill Holes in the Sheet Metal piece Before you silicone it.This will make it easier for you toThen you Trace it out on the sheet metal.

*The Amount of Time* spent on doing this Depends..."On You".If you take your time,which you should with the sheet metal,It's tedious...Believe Me...but The rewards will be //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif .If you can...use 2 or 3 layers of matting(Depending on Brand and your Budget) on the inner door skin.You can do the outer skin...but that's a big help too.

On my 1989/Mustang-GT..I used 1/8" Flat Aluminum Plate to seal the punch holes in my Door Skins.It wasn't an issue w/moulding or anything...'cause the holes were all flat..Thank God!!!!!!.But cutting the aluminum was a real Biatch to do using a milk crate and a Jig Saw .But I did it....and put 3-Layers of Matting on each inner door skin.

All The Best With Your Project....and remember...*Patience IS A Virtue*.

Kind Regards/

Thanks a lot for all of your help, but can you clarify which one is the inner skin. Is that the part behind the first pannel?

 

[MustangGT25YRS 10+ year member]

Yes...The one that the Door Panel is secured to.I definately,after looking at the punch holes...Apply damping to the "Outer Skin" also.This will make a big improvement.The holes are large enough to put damping in.

*Regards*/

 

[MiSeRy 10+ year member]

if one were to use plexiglass to seal up the doors, how thick would the plexiglass need to be? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

You can screw it together, or you can do what the OEM does and use body glue. Made for gluing sheetmetal together, easier than screws cause it can seal gaps as you go and it has the added benfit of not leaving a chance for a rattle. If you do go the sheetmetal route get thin stuff. Otherwise you will never get it to conform to the contours of that door panel.

The other option that I have used that is MUCH easier is to just build a small fiberglass enclosure to sit in/on the door and not worry about all the holes since the door isn't the enclosure. From there just apply deadener over the whole panel covering the holes as you go.

You could also deaden what you have and then use a couple layers of fiberglass mat to stiffen the areas where the holes are. The resin should adhere well to the backing foil on the deadener.

 

[CBFryman2 5,000+ posts]

Use plywood or plexi. Cut it with a jig saw. 1/4" works just fine. Dampen the door, screw it down, then dampen the plexi or plywood. There are acess holes for a reason. This way you will be able to remove it if need be.

 

[klepto 10+ year member]

Wait just to clarify, the inner skin is the pannel that the speakers actually mounts to?...the one with all of the holes in it?

 

[MustangGT25YRS 10+ year member]

Wait just to clarify, the inner skin is the pannel that the speakers actually mounts to?...the one with all of the holes in it?

Yes....That's the one/ .Think of the Outer Door Skin as "The Exterior" of the vehicle.

The above poster ^^^^^^^ is right 'bout the Punch Holes.They are there for a reason.To access Pow. Window motors/Window Adjust./Door Lock Actuator/etc.

Wether you use sheet metal/Plexi/*Plywood*(Which could be alittle difficult with the one "largest hole",being that the bottom part of the hole is pushed inward toward interior trying to seal that part of the hole)....sheet metal would be a candidate 'cause it can bent to fit that part of the hole.

*Don't Forget!!!*...To Pre/Clean the surface of the Inner Door Skin so that your damping adhesive will have a good bonding surface.Hope I've been of some help.

*Kind Regards*