Components

[kross 10+ year member]

I've never seen the Q-logic kick pods, but I remember reading somewhere that they aren't enclosed at all, that the back is totally open. If that's true, you would need to fabricate a back for it, otherwise you're just running your speakers free-air, which will totally negate all of your bass from those speakers.

Also, a few words about RMS ratings. No they are not for liability. A speaker that is rated for 50wrms can handle a signal of 50w continuous power for hours and hours on end. You have to remember that normal music has a crest factor of something in the neighborhood of 4 to 10. This means the average power of a song is only about 10%-40% of the maximum power. This means you can set your amplifier to deliver 200watts at maximum volume with a 0dB test tone, and when you listen to an average song at full volume, your speaker will see an average amount of power in the 20 to 80 watt range. That's what the RMS and peak ratings are on speakers. You can quite often set your amp to the peak rating of the speaker and be fine. See this thread, and look for responses by Manville Smith: http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=4332

Also, I don't recommend a 3-way setup to someone without the expertise to properly set it up. Without the proper setup, a 3-way system will sound worse than a 2-way system.

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

Also, I don't recommend a 3-way setup to someone without the expertise to properly set it up. Without the proper setup, a 3-way system will sound worse than a pair of cheap coaxs.

fixed! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[thefunkybunch 10+ year member]

I've never seen the Q-logic kick pods, but I remember reading somewhere that they aren't enclosed at all, that the back is totally open. If that's true, you would need to fabricate a back for it, otherwise you're just running your speakers free-air, which will totally negate all of your bass from those speakers.
Also, a few words about RMS ratings. No they are not for liability. A speaker that is rated for 50wrms can handle a signal of 50w continuous power for hours and hours on end. You have to remember that normal music has a crest factor of something in the neighborhood of 4 to 10. This means the average power of a song is only about 10%-40% of the maximum power. This means you can set your amplifier to deliver 200watts at maximum volume with a 0dB test tone, and when you listen to an average song at full volume, your speaker will see an average amount of power in the 20 to 80 watt range. That's what the RMS and peak ratings are on speakers. You can quite often set your amp to the peak rating of the speaker and be fine. See this thread, and look for responses by Manville Smith: http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csforum/showthread.php?t=4332

Also, I don't recommend a 3-way setup to someone without the expertise to properly set it up. Without the proper setup, a 3-way system will sound worse than a 2-way system.

agreed, i guess liability was the wrong choice of words. however, many manufacturers over-rate their speakers, as where jl audio, boston, rainbow, etc etc (higher end brands) tend to under-rate them, if anything. personally, i'd rather have twice as much power as i'll ever need, than just enough to get by.

and i agree that a 3way setup does need to be properly set up to sound it's best, but i'd still recommend one over a 2way setup simply because it is a better starting point. everyone has got to start learning somewhere //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif at least he'd have a solid foundation to start on, and then learn from there by experimenting with different speaker placement options to make it sound great. a qlogic set, i agree is most definitely not the best place to start with, however with it just running a midrange driver, it's nt going to lose a lot of oomph by not being sealed in the back half. it's really not making any midbass at all really, most play from about 200hz at its lowest point (with a 4" midrange, most of them with the 3" dome start considerably higher than that). and as long as it is reinforced, they'll do fine. i really don't like putting woofers in kicks because it's not IB when they're not sealed, and if they are sealed it's usually way too small to do you any good, without doing an AP membrane outside the vehicle or something, which 99.9% of the people will not do. a heavily deadened door is the easiest place to put a woofer to get good sound.

 

[pikers 10+ year member]

I'm looking to fill my factory holes with a set of 6 1/2" component set, but i would also like to have a kick panel pod made and have a set in them as well. About that pod would it be better to go with the 6 1/2'' or the 5 1/4'' set the the kick panels? I know that the 5 1/4'' would make the pod alittle less bulky but the 6 1/2" would be louder, right? I have 6"x 9" in the rear and I was just playing on upgrading them with a better set. The same brand of componets so everything matches.

You are a perfect candidate for a 3-way //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif.

What I mean is, fill that 6 1/2" door location with a solid midbass, and run kicks for mid/treble. This will also have the benefit of allowing you to get more bass upfront, allowing you to lower your crossover setting on your subs. This will reduce boom, and send more power to reproduce lower frequencies. The result will be a more well-rounded car, able to play a wider variety of music more accurately.

Add this as a +1 to what funkybunch said.