Components im considering. Thoughts?

[Timmy13091 10+ year member]

Are you ever not? Oh yeah, when you're at work. Run out of that Natty yet?
Btw, private tracker = invite only torrent source

What

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

Found it. Grab some popcorn because it's LONG. But it's such a smexy build.

2010 Fusion SQ Installation Thread - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

 

---------- Post added at 10:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:09 PM ----------

 

What

Just means there's all sorts of good stuff and it downloads super fast.

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

So many damn choices!
OP, is there a limiting factor why you aren't just going 3-way now?

Yea budget.... The comp sets im looking at are already high priced, the 3 way sets are even higher.... And theres still alot I have to do before I do a 3 way (deadning, big 3, and making the a pillars, not to mention i just ordered the amp to power them along with an oscope). But i do plan on going 3 way. In my logic seems you can get the most out of each speaker limiting the frequencies.. I was think bp 6.5s 60hz-1.5, 4" bp 1.5-3.5, tweets 3.5 ---. These probably arent the best xover points but maybe someone knows better xover points...

And as for the planars... They seem a littl fubky to me lol. I do some research on them though check em out.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

Yea budget.... The comp sets im looking at are already high priced, the 3 way sets are even higher.... And theres still alot I have to do before I do a 3 way (deadning, big 3, and making the a pillars, not to mention i just ordered the amp to power them along with an oscope). But i do plan on going 3 way. In my logic seems you can get the most out of each speaker limiting the frequencies.. I was think bp 6.5s 60hz-1.5, 4" bp 1.5-3.5, tweets 3.5 ---. These probably arent the best xover points but maybe someone knows better xover points...
And as for the planars... They seem a littl fubky to me lol. I do some research on them though check em out.

Planars have been around for a long time, but mainly in HT setups. Think of Martin Logan (might have seen them at Best Buy). Whole idea is you've got a transducer capable of a very wide frequency range without having to make huge baffles in your doors. Also, they're sealed in the rear, so you don't have to worry so much about deadening the bejeezus out of the panel it's mounted in since there's no back waves to worry about. Finally, those who've installed them in the car systems have described the spatialization as AMAZING. Everything's airy and detailed, midrange is phenomenal, and they really don't require gobs of power. And that's power you could redirect to midbasses in the door to give you more up-front impact for that 2x4 to the chest kinda bass.

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

Planars have been around for a long time, but mainly in HT setups. Think of Martin Logan (might have seen them at Best Buy). Whole idea is you've got a transducer capable of a very wide frequency range without having to make huge baffles in your doors. Also, they're sealed in the rear, so you don't have to worry so much about deadening the bejeezus out of the panel it's mounted in since there's no back waves to worry about. Finally, those who've installed them in the car systems have described the spatialization as AMAZING. Everything's airy and detailed, midrange is phenomenal, and they really don't require gobs of power. And that's power you could redirect to midbasses in the door to give you more up-front impact for that 2x4 to the chest kinda bass.

Wow really?

And what do you mean by HT.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

Wow really?And what do you mean by HT.

HT = Home theater

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

Yea budget.... The comp sets im looking at are already high priced, the 3 way sets are even higher.... And theres still alot I have to do before I do a 3 way (deadning, big 3, and making the a pillars, not to mention i just ordered the amp to power them along with an oscope). But i do plan on going 3 way. In my logic seems you can get the most out of each speaker limiting the frequencies.. I was think bp 6.5s 60hz-1.5, 4" bp 1.5-3.5, tweets 3.5 ---. These probably arent the best xover points but maybe someone knows better xover points...
And as for the planars... They seem a littl fubky to me lol. I do some research on them though check em out.

Well if you decide to get a 3 way set now You could always jut hold off on putting the 4" in until later...

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Planars have been around for a long time, but mainly in HT setups. Think of Martin Logan (might have seen them at Best Buy). Whole idea is you've got a transducer capable of a very wide frequency range without having to make huge baffles in your doors. Also, they're sealed in the rear, so you don't have to worry so much about deadening the bejeezus out of the panel it's mounted in since there's no back waves to worry about. Finally, those who've installed them in the car systems have described the spatialization as AMAZING. Everything's airy and detailed, midrange is phenomenal, and they really don't require gobs of power. And that's power you could redirect to midbasses in the door to give you more up-front impact for that 2x4 to the chest kinda bass.

The Neo3's are sealed, the Neo8's aren't. OP, the factors you described aren't reason enough to warrant spending extra money now on a 2-way system when you could have half that stuff for the 3-way system the price of the 2-way. If you had stuff to install now and just wanted to do a temp I would say go for it, but I would not recommend buying a temp setup for the price you are looking at. You can have drivers for a 3 way for that price.

The 8's look good, higher power handling and wider usable range, but not sure how'd they do in a 2-way system for me. Not sure the Neo3's would get as loud as I'd like them to. Might just run the Neo8's and live with the upper-end extension? Also, that build log is awesome.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

The Neo3's are sealed, the Neo8's aren't. OP, the factors you described aren't reason enough to warrant spending extra money now on a 2-way system when you could have half that stuff for the 3-way system the price of the 2-way. If you had stuff to install now and just wanted to do a temp I would say go for it, but I would not recommend buying a temp setup for the price you are looking at. You can have drivers for a 3 way for that price.
The 8's look good, higher power handling and wider usable range, but not sure how'd they do in a 2-way system for me. Not sure the Neo3's would get as loud as I'd like them to. Might just run the Neo8's and live with the upper-end extension? Also, that build log is awesome.

You'd need 3-way. The Neo8s don't dig low enough since they're only spec'd down to 500Hz. You'd need a dedicated midbass to fill that up.

 

---------- Post added at 10:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:42 PM ----------

 

PM me if I can help you more, @gckless. Gotta go hit the sack now. Wife is calling...

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

The Neo3's are sealed, the Neo8's aren't. OP, the factors you described aren't reason enough to warrant spending extra money now on a 2-way system when you could have half that stuff for the 3-way system the price of the 2-way. If you had stuff to install now and just wanted to do a temp I would say go for it, but I would not recommend buying a temp setup for the price you are looking at. You can have drivers for a 3 way for that price.
The 8's look good, higher power handling and wider usable range, but not sure how'd they do in a 2-way system for me. Not sure the Neo3's would get as loud as I'd like them to. Might just run the Neo8's and live with the upper-end extension? Also, that build log is awesome.

Yea, but I dont want to step down the drivers I get just to get the big3 and deadening done. That deadening runs some money, i gotta do both door panels and the trunk.

And i was gonna ask you, you mentioned earlier your already running the cdt hd62cf's?

Whats the big difference between the cl62, hd62cf, and hd62. All three are capable of 150+rms right? Explain the differences to me someone..

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Yea, but I dont want to step down the drivers I get just to get the big3 and deadening done. That deadening runs some money, i gotta do both door panels and the trunk.And i was gonna ask you, you mentioned earlier your already running the cdt hd62cf's?

Whats the big difference between the cl62, hd62cf, and hd62. All three are capable of 150+rms right? Explain the differences to me someone..

With your $450 budget you can have drivers for a 3-way no problem. Sure, it will take a little bit of waiting and saving for the other things you need, but personally I would rather do it that way than buy stuff now and then start from scratch in a couple months. Might have had the money and all equipment by the time you decided you wanted to start to upgrade in a little bit.

I am not running the CDT's now. I have the set, was literally about 2 days from installing them and found out I needed to relocate, which involved selling the car, so I never installed. Just on paper, the CL is a lower end set. I believe lower end crossovers, tweeters, and woofer all around. The regular HD-62's vs. the CF, the CF set has a carbon fiber woofer cone, hence the "CF", are a slim design, and are a little less sensitive and have other T/S differences. The regular set comes with a different tweeter and is $50 MSRP more than the CF set. Both HD-62's are rated for 180RMS, at like 120Hz. I have been told that is per side.

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

With your $450 budget you can have drivers for a 3-way no problem. Sure, it will take a little bit of waiting and saving for the other things you need, but personally I would rather do it that way than buy stuff now and then start from scratch in a couple months. Might have had the money and all equipment by the time you decided you wanted to start to upgrade in a little bit.
I am not running the CDT's now. I have the set, was literally about 2 days from installing them and found out I needed to relocate, which involved selling the car, so I never installed. Just on paper, the CL is a lower end set. I believe lower end crossovers, tweeters, and woofer all around. The regular HD-62's vs. the CF, the CF set has a carbon fiber woofer cone, hence the "CF", are a slim design, and are a little less sensitive and have other T/S differences. The regular set comes with a different tweeter and is $50 MSRP more than the CF set. Both HD-62's are rated for 180RMS, at like 120Hz. I have been told that is per side.

Are you gonna use those CFs in the setup your trying to do?

And what do you mean T/S.

And well, I have to do the big 3 asap. Im getting dimming with my current setup already, adding bigger drivers from currrently 100rms to 150rm, not to mention if i was to add 4" mids, thats alot of extra draw.

And I figure I go ahead and invest in a very good 2 way and do the big3 at the same time, be satisfied and save until I can do the deadener and get the 4".

I mean, the 3 way sets in the same lines are 500-700............

Get what im saying. I imagine the deadener for the panels and trunk is gonna be up there...

Maybe my thinkin is off. Theres alot to think about anyway lol.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Are you gonna use those CFs in the setup your trying to do?And what do you mean T/S.

And well, I have to do the big 3 asap. Im getting dimming with my current setup already, adding bigger drivers from currrently 100rms to 150rm, not to mention if i was to add 4" mids, thats alot of extra draw.

And I figure I go ahead and invest in a very good 2 way and do the big3 at the same time, be satisfied and save until I can do the deadener and get the 4".

I mean, the 3 way sets in the same lines are 500-700............

Get what im saying. I imagine the deadener for the panels and trunk is gonna be up there...

No, I'm looking into different drivers now. T/S parameters, all the specs that are on the drivers. You do understand that draw (which can result in dimming) is derived from your amps and their ratings right? You could have 30 mids in your car and draw less than one mid. And those are packaged 3-way sets. You can piece a set together of different drivers for $450 no problem.

What I am saying and recommending is save your money for better things. Run stock until you can do what you really want to do. IMO no reason to spend half of your 3-way goal on a temp 2-way install.

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

No, I'm looking into different drivers now. T/S parameters, all the specs that are on the drivers. You do understand that draw (which can result in dimming) is derived from your amps and their ratings right? You could have 30 mids in your car and draw less than one mid. And those are packaged 3-way sets. You can piece a set together of different drivers for $450 no problem.
What I am saying and recommending is save your money for better things. Run stock until you can do what you really want to do. IMO no reason to spend half of your 3-way goal on a temp 2-way install.

O, what sets have you thought about doing?

And well, that wouldnt be half. Really, i guess im prioritizing things at this point. Really id spend 600 or more on a 3 way, but to me getting everything properly deadened and the big3 is more important, idk.... So im willing to put the mids on hold so i can do that. And when i do get the mids, ill invest in those too haha.

Hope im making sense idk lol.

Edit: and im running 3 amps right now

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

O, what sets have you thought about doing?And well, that wouldnt be half. Really, i guess im prioritizing things at this point. Really id spend 600 or more on a 3 way, but to me getting everything properly deadened and the big3 is more important, idk.... So im willing to put the mids on hold so i can do that. And when i do get the mids, ill invest in those too haha.

Hope im making sense idk lol.

Edit: and im running 3 amps right now

I'm very largely undecided on mids or tweeters at this point. Looking at Exodus Anarchy, and really anything you can get on partexpress or madisound. I don't know enough about the different drivers yet. Gonna take a lot of reading and questions.

Probably get the big 3 done, buy some deadener. Read about what it takes to really do a good install of your front stage, like sealing doors, kick panels, positioning and aiming of a 3-way system, crossover points and slopes. Know what you're doing before you do it. A 3-way active system can be a huge headache if you try to figure things out after you do it.