Component Power Questions

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I blew some tweeters a long time ago by playing a 20hz - 20,000hz sine sweep. A guy gave me his bank card before he went out to sea (Naval Submariner) and said put in a system you think will rock. So I did. I remember it was an extended cab ford ranger. I put in two kicker comp 10's, two red Sony Mobile ES amps and components in the doors. All I remember is the components had plastic dome tweeters. I want to say the were Clarion speakers. Not 10 minutes after the install I played the sine sweep... crossed over the 10k area on its way up to 20k and I remember saying wow, these don't sound... then I saw smoke coming from the passenger tweeter. It melted around 16-18k hz. Replaced with silk domes, no future issues.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Here is another set I blew in my Jeep... Got this one so hot it jumped its gap and melted the grill. Mwahahaha!!!

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Ok, I have sound deadening on my doors and specifically where my speaker mounts in the factory locations. My speakers actually mount on top of the material, no spacers, its sound deadening then the sheet metal. They have been in and out of the doors dozens of times and as I discovered today, I could move the speakers with my finger. Apparently the screws have made the screw holes bigger. So I increased the size of the screw and exchanged them from the black "stinger" screws to stainless steel screws. #14 x 3/4". Fat little suckers. I have a ton of speaker gasket material just sitting here so I figured since they were gonna be out of the doors, might as well add another layer of sealant.

What I was able to do was lower my crossover on the front speakers from 100hz to 80hz @12db, increase gain on my EQ for 62.5hz up 2db to -2db and 100hz up 3db to -1db, lower my subwoofer gain from +3db to 0db. All from adding speaker gasket material to the speaker and using bigger screws which allowed me to basically make the speaker part of the door they are so tight against them. Nuts. Oh, my FH-168 speaker polarity tester came in the mail today so bonus.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Some of the most important aspects have been done that most never do to gain better performance for installation of speakers in general..Preping the doors.and proper sealing and mounting.Getting rid of road noise is a big factor for any vehicle to gain the most out of any car audio system.These vehicles in todays market are built like TIN CANS, and thin metal.with no girth so to speak.Its amazing what little it takes to minimize road noise, and get the most out of an audio system.Plus One on your behalf

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I had to take a dremel to my CRV to do some DEMO work on those doors with all the Plastics from factory installs. took me a day per door just to cut all the garbage out. It was well worth all the time taken. I wouldnt recommend on a Leased vehicle or non-paid off vehicle.Maybe min deadening on those as possible without messing up a warranty

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

So after doing all that... getting the speakers all tight and what not, I put the 9v battery in my polarity checker. Left rear door (correct polarity), Right rear door (correct polarity), Right front tweeter (correct polarity), Right front mid (OUT OF PHASE!!!), Left front tweeter (OUT OF PHASE!!!), Left front mid (correct polarity). Do you have any idea how different speakers sound when ALL the speakers are the same polarity???? I will tell you. Night and day different. More than when I fixed the EQ. More than when I mounted them tighter.

Of course I was mad and excited that I found a problem then fixed it. So I grabbed my HD speaker set-up disc and checked the phasing, depth of field with bells @ 6 feet and 18 feet (left, right and center for both distances) in a room with 2 seconds of natural reverb and several types of music and instruments on the disc. I went back in my Kenwood HU and turned my Digital Time Alignment back on, set it to the drivers seat and FINALLY it sounds right. Vocals are right in front of me just on the other side of the glass when I close my eyes. This is the first time I have heard correct time alignment... granted it's a really low level time alignment. I can't wait to see what my 3Sixty.3 does.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I have no clue what these numbers represent... the manual doesn't say. It's either distance or amount of time delay, possibly milliseconds? All I know is when the numbers go higher on the Front L, the sound shifts to the right. This is the default setting it went to on the onboard DTA. I now have the FL set to .66 and the RL set to .80 something. Not that you can really hear the rears as low as I have them. Got my free house elf watching over things.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Would this be stupid? My eXcelon XR-1700P components... they have a crossover, I am currently using these crossovers, when I start throwing speakers into the G6, would it be stupid to run these eXcelons ACTIVE in the G6 until I get my ScanSpeak mids and tweets? They should sound better than with the crossovers right?