Component or coaxial speakers to the back

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

The baffle doesn't really flex much, I just used 3/4 pine ply. They were beating my doors to hell tho. Everything was rattling. Their big 'ol motor is what eventually made me pull them out. Got sick of not having fully working windows.

Matt

I think I have 5.5inches of depth maybe more. I can't go anythicker than 1.5inch baffer without modification of the door panel. Which could likely net me another half inch of baffle thickness. But really I don't think I'll need a bigger midbass.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

No I wouldn't try and play them in a home audio environment. They aren't designed for that and don't model very well when tuned low. They are designed to be midbass not midrange drivers thus the focus on the bottom end. Sensitivity of course isn't going to be super high compared to the midbass you linked that was only rated to play down to 100hz by American bass. They weren't designed to play as low.

And sensitivity doesn't really matter much when you have ample power to play with. Its 91.5db for reference. It gets plenty loud and I don't expect a single pair to produce midbass and keep up with 2 big 15s. Once you get into the higher pressure systems your subs generally overtake all your midbass anyway. My more modest systems most midbass drivers can keep up with very well and I can cross my subs lower. Generally I cross both my subs and mid at 63hz. And I still don't have a gaping hole at 63-100hz like most systems.

They are still plenty loud and if I cross them at 100hz like your ab mids I can feed them alot of power safely. The 1.25inch voice coil should handle 200w just fine as long as power stays clean and it's not bottoming out from bass

Why do they call it a woofer then? Those Pioneer Pro's that I was running in the same Bug play from 50hz. - 18khz. Very nice speakers. My Deaf Bonce Arnold's in my truck are pretty nice to.

 

[spokey9]

A woofer isn't a subwoofer

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

A woofer isn't a subwoofer

They look decent for the money. They still look like a home audio sub. They are even listed for home audio, surround sound systems, car audio, and commercial. In that order. What amps, HU, and coaxials, and component speakers do they make for car audio? I'd still run the Pioneer's over them in a vehicle due to the frequency range and sensitivity need to keep up with a lot of bass. They would work fine in a SQ setup.

 

[spokey9]

You'd been surprised what a home audio driver can do in car...it's the install that really matters...once I get my doors redone I'll be running some dayton audio woofers that aren't "car audio" speakers...

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

You'd been surprised what a home audio driver can do in car...it's the install that really matters...once I get my doors redone I'll be running some dayton audio woofers that aren't "car audio" speakers...

I've used home audio speakers in my cars BITD! Mid 80's. Whatever works.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

They look decent for the money. They still look like a home audio sub. They are even listed for home audio, surround sound systems, car audio, and commercial. In that order. What amps, HU, and coaxials, and component speakers do they make for car audio? I'd still run the Pioneer's over them in a vehicle due to the frequency range and sensitivity need to keep up with a lot of bass. They would work fine in a SQ setup.

I mean those pioneers you keep fauning over are designed for pa concert type installations yet you use them in a car.

And most car audio equipment is simply rebadged home audio gear. I mean most of it is made in the same 5 factories in china hell diamond audio used a home audio tweeter in their high end component kits for years and guess what it's cheap

LPG 26NA Aluminum Dome Car Tweeter

LPG 1" neodymium magnet tweeter. Compact high efficiency dome tweeters with smooth and extended frequency response. Variable mounting to fit your applications. Ferrofluid cooled for higher power handling. Can be used in LPG wedge or flush mount. Use QC205R & QC110B if not soldering. Technical...

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

Hell most of morels mid an tweets have a nearly identical home audio version most of which are simply change in mounting style or swaps to 8ohm.

They definitely aren't subwoofers

Woofers simply put are designed to play in-between the sub woofer and midrange. Midbass isn't really a label in the home audio world.

You are paying for a company to select a speaker from a catalog and slap their stickers and colors on it 90% of the time.

If you were talking about audiofrog, JL, hybrid audio technologies it would hold more weight but even higher end companies just order from a catalog but instead of China they order form Europe.

Very few companies actually do real r&d and the ones that do are really just sampling catalog options and mix and matching specific features.

At the end of the day it's whatever make you happy. The fact that I pulled a pair of $600 component set mids out of my truck and replaced them with $75 home audio woofers and got better results makes me both happy and frustrated. Frustrated that I spent so much on speakers that performed mediocre but happy that the fix was cheap.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I mean those pioneers you keep fauning over are designed for pa concert type installations yet you use them in a car.

And most car audio equipment is simply rebadged home audio gear. I mean most of it is made in the same 5 factories in china hell diamond audio used a home audio tweeter in their high end component kits for years and guess what it's cheap

LPG 26NA Aluminum Dome Car Tweeter

LPG 1" neodymium magnet tweeter. Compact high efficiency dome tweeters with smooth and extended frequency response. Variable mounting to fit your applications. Ferrofluid cooled for higher power handling. Can be used in LPG wedge or flush mount. Use QC205R & QC110B if not soldering. Technical...

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

Hell most of morels mid an tweets have a nearly identical home audio version most of which are simply change in mounting style or swaps to 8ohm.

They definitely aren't subwoofers

Woofers simply put are designed to play in-between the sub woofer and midrange. Midbass isn't really a label in the home audio world.

You are paying for a company to select a speaker from a catalog and slap their stickers and colors on it 90% of the time.

If you were talking about audiofrog, JL, hybrid audio technologies it would hold more weight but even higher end companies just order from a catalog but instead of China they order form Europe.

Very few companies actually do real r&d and the ones that do are really just sampling catalog options and mix and matching specific features.

At the end of the day it's whatever make you happy. The fact that I pulled a pair of $600 component set mids out of my truck and replaced them with $75 home audio woofers and got better results makes me both happy and frustrated. Frustrated that I spent so much on speakers that performed mediocre but happy that the fix was cheap.

I guess you proved my point that they are home audio speakers by using the word woofers. If they do the job then run them. The Pioneers don't look like home audio speakers to me. Show me a home audio with a speaker grill like that. I might try the silver Flutes or Stephen's Audio mids if I ever run a 4 way setup again.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

I guess you proved my point that they are home audio speakers by using the word woofers. If they do the job then run them. The Pioneers don't look like home audio speakers to me. Show me a home audio with a speaker grill like that. I might try the silver Flutes or Stephen's Audio mids if I ever run a 4 way setup again.

I never said the pioneers we're home audio speakers they are pro audio style drivers which are typically used by djs and sound guys for large out door events. You usually use multiple arrays of these speakers to make up for deficiency at low end as well as ported enclosures.

And speaker grills mean nothing I can take that pioneer grill and put it on any other speaker

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

I never said the pioneers we're home audio speakers they are pro audio style drivers which are typically used by djs and sound guys for large out door events. You usually use multiple arrays of these speakers to make up for deficiency at low end as well as ported enclosures.

And speaker grills mean nothing I can take that pioneer grill and put it on any other speaker

I'm saying that the Pioneers don't look like home speakers like the Silver Flute does. I doubt that you could put that speaker grill on another speaker because they are 6-¾" speakers. The specs say 50hz. on the low end. Is that a deficiency? Most of the systems I see aren't running midbass at all. Just midrange, tweeters, and subs.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

I'm saying that the Pioneers don't look like home speakers like the Silver Flute does. I doubt that you could put that speaker grill on another speaker because they are 6-¾" speakers. The specs say 50hz. on the low end. Is that a deficiency? Most of the systems I see aren't running midbass at all. Just midrange, tweeters, and subs.

Most of the systems you see are going for straight loud not sq. And you think pioneer is the only one making a 6 3/4 speaker? These flutes are 6 3/4 every single speaker company out there makes a 6 3/4 version.

Pioneer says 50hz on the low end but does it really do that? We all know car audio companies like through their teeth to sell equipment. No different than pioneer slapping a 500w max sticker on a 230w 2channel.

At the end of the day if you like your system that's all that matters. I'm sure I listen to my system at a much lower level than you do most of the time. I'm not running a 150+db sub stage that I need to keep up with. Usually I'm in the mid 140s and daily probably in the upper 120 to mid 130s.

We are just 2 different styles of users.

I'm really not trying to talk down your equipment but we are talking about separate realms of audio

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Most of the systems you see are going for straight loud not sq. And you think pioneer is the only one making a 6 3/4 speaker? These flutes are 6 3/4 every single speaker company out there makes a 6 3/4 version.

Pioneer says 50hz on the low end but does it really do that? We all know car audio companies like through their teeth to sell equipment. No different than pioneer slapping a 500w max sticker on a 230w 2channel.

At the end of the day if you like your system that's all that matters. I'm sure I listen to my system at a much lower level than you do most of the time. I'm not running a 150+db sub stage that I need to keep up with. Usually I'm in the mid 140s and daily probably in the upper 120 to mid 130s.

We are just 2 different styles of users.

I'm really not trying to talk down your equipment but we are talking about separate realms of audio

I listen to NPR and sports radio all day. My mids/highs consist of Deaf Bonce 6-½" Arnold's, Rockford Fosgate tweeters, and 6-½" Polk Audio coaxials in the rear. My equipment isn't exactly garbage and much more costly. My sub stage isn't 150+ (yet). 148.9 @ 31 hz. so far. If my box is tuned to 33 or 34 and I peak at 31 does that mean I have cabin loss? Serious question.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

I listen to NPR and sports radio all day. My mids/highs consist of Deaf Bonce 6-½" Arnold's, Rockford Fosgate tweeters, and 6-½" Polk Audio coaxials in the rear. My equipment isn't exactly garbage and much more costly. My sub stage isn't 150+ (yet). 148.9 @ 31 hz. so far. If my box is tuned to 33 or 34 and I peak at 31 does that mean I have cabin loss? Serious question.

No that means you cabin gain is fairly low frequency but you might not be gaining a lot compared to other vehicles.

Best way I can describe finding cabin gain is to take a driver in a sealed box, outside the vehicle, pointing away from hard reflective surfaces, measure a sweep at 1foot distance in front of the driver

Put that same enclosure in the vehicle and run the sweep with the mic at the listeners position.

Subtract the original outside sweep from the inside sweep and that is you cabin gain.

Basically you are comparing how the sub acts in an open environment compared to the enclosed vehicle environment.

It doesn't have to be any particular driver I usually use a random 10inch sub.

Once you know your cabin gain you can add that gain or subtract it to the predicted curve of a box program

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

No that means you cabin gain is fairly low frequency but you might not be gaining a lot compared to other vehicles.

Best way I can describe finding cabin gain is to take a driver in a sealed box, outside the vehicle, pointing away from hard reflective surfaces, measure a sweep at 1foot distance in front of the driver

Put that same enclosure in the vehicle and run the sweep with the mic at the listeners position.

Subtract the original outside sweep from the inside sweep and that is you cabin gain.

Basically you are comparing how the sub acts in an open environment compared to the enclosed vehicle environment.

It doesn't have to be any particular driver I usually use a random 10inch sub.

Once you know your cabin gain you can add that gain or subtract it to the predicted curve of a box program

Is it normal to peak lower in your vehicle then the tuning of your box? If I build another box tuned to 30hz. would it peak @ 27hz.?

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

No that means you cabin gain is fairly low frequency but you might not be gaining a lot compared to other vehicles.

Best way I can describe finding cabin gain is to take a driver in a sealed box, outside the vehicle, pointing away from hard reflective surfaces, measure a sweep at 1foot distance in front of the driver

Put that same enclosure in the vehicle and run the sweep with the mic at the listeners position.

Subtract the original outside sweep from the inside sweep and that is you cabin gain.

Basically you are comparing how the sub acts in an open environment compared to the enclosed vehicle environment.

It doesn't have to be any particular driver I usually use a random 10inch sub.

Once you know your cabin gain you can add that gain or subtract it to the predicted curve of a box program

When I do a sweep the peak is 31hz.