Component or coaxial speakers to the back




Sorry for the bad video quality. The pixel 6pro is a garbage phone.



Short of pulling the door panels idk how to really show the low frequency extension. But the low notes in that recording is 28hz. No hpf at all on 80w per mid.



No subs in the truck right now just the 2 silverflute 6.5s and 1 Memphis viv tweeter that's on its way out. Idk what happened to these tweeters I though I smoked the first one by my mistake but this one has loose leads. Im wondering if the solder joint at the tinsel leads broke due to the rough ass ride of this dually

I'm sure the Silver Flutes are great speakers. I think a surround will tell you if a speaker is a midbass or midrange. A midbass should have a rolled surround like a mini woofer IMO.
 
I'm sure the Silver Flutes are great speakers. I think a surround will tell you if a speaker is a midbass or midrange. A midbass should have a rolled surround like a mini woofer IMO.

It definitely has a rolled surround and a fairly heavy motor. The fs is like 37.5hz which is really low as well. Typically hpf should be 1.5x the fs of the speaker. That would be 55.75hz for the flutes. I usually cross them at 63hz.

The only down side is the upper end frequency response. They start to get muddy above 2600hz. Most tweeters should be crossed in the 2800hz and up range which can make finding a complimentary tweeter difficult. 25mm hard domes usually cross above 3khz, 25mm silk can tolerate a little lower.

28mm silk is ideal, I'm gonna try dd 28mm ceramic domes next they should handle crossing at 2600hz just fine with the low 1700ish hz fs
 
I'm sure the Silver Flutes are great speakers. I think a surround will tell you if a speaker is a midbass or midrange. A midbass should have a rolled surround like a mini woofer IMO.

Surround has less to do with midbass vs midrange than you might think. Xmax also has less to do with midbass vs midrange.

The silver flutes are some of the best budget midbass on the market. There is a Dayton 6.5 as well but I don't recall the model. If you can fit them anarchy 704 are absolute BEASTS, but they need alot of power.
 
It definitely has a rolled surround and a fairly heavy motor. The fs is like 37.5hz which is really low as well. Typically hpf should be 1.5x the fs of the speaker. That would be 55.75hz for the flutes. I usually cross them at 63hz.

The only down side is the upper end frequency response. They start to get muddy above 2600hz. Most tweeters should be crossed in the 2800hz and up range which can make finding a complimentary tweeter difficult. 25mm hard domes usually cross above 3khz, 25mm silk can tolerate a little lower.

28mm silk is ideal, I'm gonna try dd 28mm ceramic domes next they should handle crossing at 2600hz just fine with the low 1700ish hz fs

1.5x-2x Fs is only really applicable to tweeters, and it's more of a guideline than anything. My midbass have a Fs of 60hz, and I cross them at 60hz. Before I got the substage installed I ran them down to 30hz and just watched the power.

As far as tweeters go, mating up to a 2400hz point isn't terribly difficult for a good tweeter. Getting tweeters to mate up below 2k is where things get fun. I can't recall the tweeter, but there is really only one choice for crossing below 2k. It's a silk dome 28mm with a Fs of 680hz(if I remember correctly.). I'll try to look it up.

Matt
 
Surround has less to do with midbass vs midrange than you might think. Xmax also has less to do with midbass vs midrange.

The silver flutes are some of the best budget midbass on the market. There is a Dayton 6.5 as well but I don't recall the model. If you can fit them anarchy 704 are absolute BEASTS, but they need alot of power.

yea the anarchy were my next pick but you really need to go 3way with those.

1.5x-2x Fs is only really applicable to tweeters, and it's more of a guideline than anything. My midbass have a Fs of 60hz, and I cross them at 60hz. Before I got the substage installed I ran them down to 30hz and just watched the power.



Yea I usually just play it by ear for my mids.



As far as tweeters go, mating up to a 2400hz point isn't terribly difficult for a good tweeter. Getting tweeters to mate up below 2k is where things get fun. I can't recall the tweeter, but there is really only one choice for crossing below 2k. It's a silk dome 28mm with a Fs of 680hz(if I remember correctly.). I'll try to look it up.

the dd at-28a should be fine crossed at 2600hz as planned.

Matt
 
yea the anarchy were my next pick but you really need to go 3way with those.

You can play the Anarchy up to 2.5k with a little EQ. I was running them in a sealed door before I went with a pair of 7" midbass. They arent amazing above 1200 by any means, but they will happily play up to 3k without any really huge issues. Crossing them at 1800ish with a pair of ribbon tweeters seems to be the ticket for a 2-way. I've got the pair still, I plan to use them in my HT when I get around to making it.

Matt
 
You can play the Anarchy up to 2.5k with a little EQ. I was running them in a sealed door before I went with a pair of 7" midbass. They arent amazing above 1200 by any means, but they will happily play up to 3k without any really huge issues. Crossing them at 1800ish with a pair of ribbon tweeters seems to be the ticket for a 2-way. I've got the pair still, I plan to use them in my HT when I get around to making it.

Matt
I was gonna do anarchy mids next but I was worried about baffle flex mostly. I was gonna cut and bolt some 1inch carbon steel as spacers if I went that route the drill and tap for the mid mounting.

Probably overkill but I've seen them flex door panels. Idk if ply wood of mdf would be stout enough.

Thankfully I find the silverflutes to be pretty sufficient especially when I'm running 125w+ to them.
 
It definitely has a rolled surround and a fairly heavy motor. The fs is like 37.5hz which is really low as well. Typically hpf should be 1.5x the fs of the speaker. That would be 55.75hz for the flutes. I usually cross them at 63hz.

The only down side is the upper end frequency response. They start to get muddy above 2600hz. Most tweeters should be crossed in the 2800hz and up range which can make finding a complimentary tweeter difficult. 25mm hard domes usually cross above 3khz, 25mm silk can tolerate a little lower.

28mm silk is ideal, I'm gonna try dd 28mm ceramic domes next they should handle crossing at 2600hz just fine with the low 1700ish hz fs

Would you even need a tweeter with those Pioneer Pro 6-¾'s? They go up to 18khz. I'm not a fan of the real high and harsh tweeters.
 
It definitely has a rolled surround and a fairly heavy motor. The fs is like 37.5hz which is really low as well. Typically hpf should be 1.5x the fs of the speaker. That would be 55.75hz for the flutes. I usually cross them at 63hz.

The only down side is the upper end frequency response. They start to get muddy above 2600hz. Most tweeters should be crossed in the 2800hz and up range which can make finding a complimentary tweeter difficult. 25mm hard domes usually cross above 3khz, 25mm silk can tolerate a little lower.

28mm silk is ideal, I'm gonna try dd 28mm ceramic domes next they should handle crossing at 2600hz just fine with the low 1700ish hz fs

Those Silver Flutes look like home theater subs not midbass speakers. I guess if you have the mounting depth they will work. I still liked my AB VFL65MB's. I don't think they make them anymore. 100-3K. Sensitivity is high 103.5. 1-½" voice coil.

Screenshot_20220926-182255_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20220926-182116_Chrome.jpg
 
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Those Silver Flutes look like home theater subs not midbass speakers. I guess if you have the mounting depth they will work. I still liked my AB VFL65MB's. I don't think they make them anymore. 100-3K. Sensitivity is high 103.5. 1-½" voice coil.

View attachment 42998View attachment 42999

They aren't subs the motor is fairly large and they might could handle sub duty in the proper box but the tangband w6 and exodus anarchy are more sub than the silverflutes.

I've used the flutes off and on for a few years but this is the first time I got my doors to act properly as an enclosure. Usually I can seal them up this well.

Those American bass look fine and while they are rated at higher power I have 0 issue running 125w to these 80w silverflutes and plan on running 150-200w in the future. What amazes me is the cost per mid. $30 is cheap as hell for the performance you get
 
They aren't subs the motor is fairly large and they might could handle sub duty in the proper box but the tangband w6 and exodus anarchy are more sub than the silverflutes.

I've used the flutes off and on for a few years but this is the first time I got my doors to act properly as an enclosure. Usually I can seal them up this well.

Those American bass look fine and while they are rated at higher power I have 0 issue running 125w to these 80w silverflutes and plan on running 150-200w in the future. What amazes me is the cost per mid. $30 is cheap as hell for the performance you get

Sensitivity? How loud are they?
 
They aren't subs the motor is fairly large and they might could handle sub duty in the proper box but the tangband w6 and exodus anarchy are more sub than the silverflutes.

I've used the flutes off and on for a few years but this is the first time I got my doors to act properly as an enclosure. Usually I can seal them up this well.

Those American bass look fine and while they are rated at higher power I have 0 issue running 125w to these 80w silverflutes and plan on running 150-200w in the future. What amazes me is the cost per mid. $30 is cheap as hell for the performance you get

Would you use them as a sub in your home theater setup or not? You want to run a home theater sub as your midbass. Am I wrong?
 
Would you use them as a sub in your home theater setup or not? You want to run a home theater sub as your midbass. Am I wrong?
If it played cleanly in the desired range...yep I'd run it...no reason not to play around a bit until you find what's right for the install...

Some of the best sounding systems I ever heard were 15 or 18 inch Peavy style loudspeakers...clean and loud...plus they looked cool as hell 🤣🤣🤣
 
Would you use them as a sub in your home theater setup or not? You want to run a home theater sub as your midbass. Am I wrong?

No I wouldn't try and play them in a home audio environment. They aren't designed for that and don't model very well when tuned low. They are designed to be midbass not midrange drivers thus the focus on the bottom end. Sensitivity of course isn't going to be super high compared to the midbass you linked that was only rated to play down to 100hz by American bass. They weren't designed to play as low.

And sensitivity doesn't really matter much when you have ample power to play with. Its 91.5db for reference. It gets plenty loud and I don't expect a single pair to produce midbass and keep up with 2 big 15s. Once you get into the higher pressure systems your subs generally overtake all your midbass anyway. My more modest systems most midbass drivers can keep up with very well and I can cross my subs lower. Generally I cross both my subs and mid at 63hz. And I still don't have a gaping hole at 63-100hz like most systems.

They are still plenty loud and if I cross them at 100hz like your ab mids I can feed them alot of power safely. The 1.25inch voice coil should handle 200w just fine as long as power stays clean and it's not bottoming out from bass
 
I was gonna do anarchy mids next but I was worried about baffle flex mostly. I was gonna cut and bolt some 1inch carbon steel as spacers if I went that route the drill and tap for the mid mounting.

Probably overkill but I've seen them flex door panels. Idk if ply wood of mdf would be stout enough.

Thankfully I find the silverflutes to be pretty sufficient especially when I'm running 125w+ to them.

The baffle doesn't really flex much, I just used 3/4 pine ply. They were beating my doors to hell tho. Everything was rattling. Their big 'ol motor is what eventually made me pull them out. Got sick of not having fully working windows.

Matt
 
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