Comments on new setup?

[chones2303]

Hi all. I'm thinking about upgrading my system--nothing fancy, my old ears can't handle it anymore. Perhaps just some components for the fronts, a small amp, and maybe a small sub to round everything out. I care more about (budget friendly) sound quality than super loud music or teeth rattling bass. I drive a 21 Accord 2.0T. I basically want to keep this upgrade as close to factory as possible because of all the integrated tech on the factory stereo.

Here's what I'm thinking:

Components: Hertz DSK 165.3 for the fronts at $229 per pair (or maybe Focal Performance 165AS for $379 on Crutchfield but that seems overpriced for their access line)
Amp: Focal AP4340 for $225 or JL Audio JD400/4 for $280
Sub: Kicker 44TCWC102 for $145 on Crutchfield or something similar.

I've only ever upgraded components so adding an amp & sub is going to be a new experience for me. What do you guys think? Will the amp I've selected be enough to power both the components & a small sub?

Thanks for your input.

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[Kickstand Premium Member]

OK, I admire your enthusiasm but your a little off on the equipment
No big deal that's why you came here
First off if your going to run a sub then you need to do it off its own amp, not off a 4 channel.
Second, in that car you wont be able to swap out the head unit so you will need a converter/processor =, Dayton or Audio Control make good one for cheap
I'm guessing your on a budget
You might want to do this in sections
Do the sub and amp now, add the front amp and components later would be my sugestion
As for equipment
There is a lot better equipment out there for cheap or relatively cheap
The Soundqubed S1-1250 is only $179
https://soundqubed.com/product/s1-1250-monoblock-amplifier/
Match that with one 12" HDS2 for $159
https://soundqubed.com/product/hds2-2-series-600w-subwoofer/
Then you just need to have the box made which is important
The proper box is make or break for subs
Plus you have added headroom to add a second one down the line if you want to
Which you will
Trust me

 

[chones2303]

My priorities are, in this order, components, amp to power them, and then a sub.

My understanding was that I could use a 4 channel amp to power the components in channels 1-2 and bridge 3-4 for a small sub. Is that not accurate?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

My priorities are, in this order, components, amp to power them, and then a sub.

My understanding was that I could use a 4 channel amp to power the components in channels 1-2 and bridge 3-4 for a small sub. Is that not accurate?

You can yes. Just not ideal.

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

I would look into the Image Dynamics CXS64 for components. The crossover gives you some options which is nice and the tweeter can be mounted to the mid.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Get the bass right first, and include a knob to quickly adjust the bass level. I'm not certain about that radio but AudioControl LC2i PRO might be perfect. Then you can add your 4-channel or 2-channel amplifier and component speakers, using RCA outputs from LC2i Pro.

I think JL Fix-86 might be a better OEM integration option than anything from AudioControl for your application.

 

[chones2303]

Get the bass right first, and include a knob to quickly adjust the bass level. I'm not certain about that radio but AudioControl LC2i PRO might be perfect. Then you can add your 4-channel or 2-channel amplifier and component speakers, using RCA outputs from LC2i Pro.

I think JL Fix-86 might be a better OEM integration option than anything from AudioControl for your application.

Folks in this forum keep talking about bass instead of making recommendations based upon my stated preferences. lol

95% of the time, I listen to audiobooks and/or news radio. I want a solid pair of components that will run clean mids for vocals. When I am listening to music, it's usually punk or stuff with a lot of horns. In my previous car, I had some Morels running off the stock HU which was fine most of the time for my uses but they were severely underpowered. But good enough.

This time around, I want to get some decent components and an amp that'll be able to power them. That's priority number 1. I thought getting a small 4ch amp would be good if I decided to run a small amp in bridged mode for a small sub because I'd still have more than enough power running one pair of efficient components without overtaxing the amp.

Folks on here seem to think, without asking my preferences and/or use scenarios, I need a 600w sub running off a monoamp with a separate amp for my components when that's exactly the opposite effect of what I'm trying to achieve.

Really just wish forum folks would just answer the question asked instead of answering the question they wished I had asked.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Don't go with Soundqubed for the sub. Get something nice. I'd pretty much take anything over SQ. Including Kicker.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Folks in this forum keep talking about bass instead of making recommendations based upon my stated preferences. lol

95% of the time, I listen to audiobooks and/or news radio. I want a solid pair of components that will run clean mids for vocals. When I am listening to music, it's usually punk or stuff with a lot of horns. In my previous car, I had some Morels running off the stock HU which was fine most of the time for my uses but they were severely underpowered. But good enough.

This time around, I want to get some decent components and an amp that'll be able to power them. That's priority number 1. I thought getting a small 4ch amp would be good if I decided to run a small amp in bridged mode for a small sub because I'd still have more than enough power running one pair of efficient components without overtaxing the amp.

Folks on here seem to think, without asking my preferences and/or use scenarios, I need a 600w sub running off a monoamp with a separate amp for my components when that's exactly the opposite effect of what I'm trying to achieve.

Really just wish forum folks would just answer the question asked instead of answering the question they wished I had asked.

If you really don't care about bass then do what you want. My prediction is you'll regret it when you get the rest of the audible spectrum right and you still complain(maybe silently) that it lacks any bottom end while driving. You came here for advice and you don't have to like all of it.

 

[chones2303]

If you really don't care about bass then do what you want. My prediction is you'll regret it when you get the rest of the audible spectrum right and you still complain(maybe silently) that it lacks any bottom end while driving. You came here for advice and you don't have to like all of it.

I mean if it was relevant then perhaps you'd have an argument. That has not been the case.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Folks in this forum keep talking about bass instead of making recommendations based upon my stated preferences. lol

95% of the time, I listen to audiobooks and/or news radio. I want a solid pair of components that will run clean mids for vocals. When I am listening to music, it's usually punk or stuff with a lot of horns. In my previous car, I had some Morels running off the stock HU which was fine most of the time for my uses but they were severely underpowered. But good enough.

This time around, I want to get some decent components and an amp that'll be able to power them. That's priority number 1. I thought getting a small 4ch amp would be good if I decided to run a small amp in bridged mode for a small sub because I'd still have more than enough power running one pair of efficient components without overtaxing the amp.

Folks on here seem to think, without asking my preferences and/or use scenarios, I need a 600w sub running off a monoamp with a separate amp for my components when that's exactly the opposite effect of what I'm trying to achieve.

Really just wish forum folks would just answer the question asked instead of answering the question they wished I had asked.

Have you read the title to your thread? You asked for comments so you got comments. If you don't like it then you can stfu and gtfo bro.

 

[chones2303]

Have you read the title to your thread? You asked for comments so you got comments. If you don't like it then you can stfu and gtfo bro.

I mean have you read my original post? Perhaps expecting people to comment on the questions actually asked was too much?

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

I mean have you read my original post? Perhaps expecting people to comment on the questions actually asked was too much?

Have YOU read the original post? You asked if the amp you selected will have enough power but you haven't selected an amp. Why is it so hard for retards to match rms numbers. What part of it do you not understand. If you need 300 watts then get a 300 watt amp. If you need 500 watts then get a 500 watt amp. Now f*ck off

 

[chones2303]

Have YOU read the original post? You asked if the amp you selected will have enough power but you haven't selected an amp. Why is it so hard for retards to match rms numbers. What part of it do you not understand. If you need 300 watts then get a 300 watt amp. If you need 500 watts then get a 500 watt amp. Now f*ck off

Now you're actually approaching an answer that is useful. Not sure why you're triggered. But it sure is funny.

Focal AP4340 for $225 or JL Audio JD400/4 for $280" -- these are two amps I'm looking at. I'm trying to pair either with Hertz DSK 165.3 or maybe Focal Performance 165AS as the original post states.

Since I'm not an expert in car audio, I asked asked the question in a forum on a website called caraudio.com thinking perhaps folks who post here would be able to answer what I assumed would be a very simple question, especially since I laid out all the products I'm thinking of purchasing.

 

[nauc 10+ year member]

id get the Hertz comps and the JL amp