Clay that can withstand high heat

[RogerKline 10+ year member]

It is a little more difficult to mold than the hobby store clay as it is somewhat stiff. I didn't notice any unusual odor to it.

 

[Simek4life 10+ year member]

any pics?

No, it was in my old car that I flipped.

Non-hardening clay.

Mine was "non-hardening", but that didn't seem to matter in FL heat.

 

[BRZguy 10+ year member]

i got some clay from michaels.had in my doors for 2 years and havent notice any odors

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Seriously, who is actually measuring heat in their doors? If your door is getting to be 175*F for hours on end, you have bigger issues to worry about.

OP you didn't search well enough. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif I know for a fact I've mentioned Alumilite before.

 

[PaulD 10+ year member]

agrees with foxpro, if your doors are fully deadened (especially the inside skin of the outside panel) i9t should not be getting so hot.

 

[SubNit 10+ year member]

Thanks for the input.

As mentioned in my first post, I enquired about whether or not my doors would infact get that hot. The only reason I was hesitating on the clay that I have found was because on a hot summer day here in Texas, your car get's crazy hot when left outside to bake in the sun.

So you guys think that the normal 150 degree NHMC should be sufficient?

@Foxpro, I did do a search and since I saw Alumilite mentioned just once (by you)previous to this thread I did not find it relevent to mention in my initial post. But now that I had input from a second source I see that is has been tested by more than just one person and I'm considering it aswell. But if the normal 150 degree clay will work I'll probably just get that.

Thanks for the help guys

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the input.
As mentioned in my first post, I enquired about whether or not my doors would infact get that hot. The only reason I was hesitating on the clay that I have found was because on a hot summer day here in Texas, your car get's crazy hot when left outside to bake in the sun.

So you guys think that the normal 150 degree NHMC should be sufficient?

@Foxpro, I did do a search and since I saw Alumilite mentioned just once (by you)previous to this thread I did not find it relevent to mention in my initial post. But now that I had input from a second source I see that is has been tested by more than just one person and I'm considering it aswell. But if the normal 150 degree clay will work I'll probably just get that.

Thanks for the help guys

If you're really concerned about it, I'd suggest at least one, probably two layers of foil-backed deadener on your outer door skins to block radiant heat. If that's not enough, sandwich a layer of closed cell foam (neoprene, for ex) in between that first layer of deadener and some aluminum foil (ie Reynolds wrap):

|Door skin| aluminum foil.

I called the makers of Alumilite directly and was told it will start to soften in the mid 200's and melt at 450*F. It's used as a casting filler in molds that get hot. I have some in the inside of my car which will never get hot, so I cannot personally verify that for you.

 

[SubNit 10+ year member]

Thanks for the great response. Is that Alumilite in the picture you posted?

I've also been looking into getting some type of material to absorb the standing waves in the doors. What would you reccomend to get this accomplished? I was thinking some type of foam (such as CC) but wasn't sure. I know whatever it is it needs to be waterproof

Thanks again for the help

 

[shaneb 10+ year member]

agrees with foxpro, if your doors are fully deadened (especially the inside skin of the outside panel) i9t should not be getting so hot.

I am in texas also, and I don't know the melting point of credit cards but I left one hanging out of my ash tray one day and when i went backt o my car after work it was melted in half.

It get's hot here. figure 105 outside. who knows inside.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the great response. Is that Alumilite in the picture you posted?
I've also been looking into getting some type of material to absorb the standing waves in the doors. What would you reccomend to get this accomplished? I was thinking some type of foam (such as CC) but wasn't sure. I know whatever it is it needs to be waterproof

Thanks again for the help

Yes, that's Alumilite.

Depends on the driver and the frequencies it's playing.

Closed cell foam doesn't absorb.

I'd sell you some Back-Stop 1.0 but I don't have any in stock. 100% waterproof broadband absorber that weighs practically nothing.

 

[CantGetEnufBASS 10+ year member]

It is a little more difficult to mold than the hobby store clay as it is somewhat stiff. I didn't notice any unusual odor to it.

i remember wayyy back in the day like 8th grade kids would make these lil pipes out of that clay. i cant belive i smoked out of that...this one kid made a clay bong but it fell apart in the oven

 

[SubNit 10+ year member]

Yes, that's Alumilite.
Depends on the driver and the frequencies it's playing.

Closed cell foam doesn't absorb.

I'd sell you some Back-Stop 1.0 but I don't have any in stock. 100% waterproof broadband absorber that weighs practically nothing.

You just had to go and tease me by telling me what to get, then "oh I don't have it in stock" huh

Anyways I appreciate all the help from everyone. I'm going to go ahead and order the Alumilite and look into some other methods of absorbing the waves. Although maybe I'll be good with just the baffle/clay apparatus, deflex pads and of course some sound deadener.