Class D 4 channel

[efm80 10+ year member]

been looking to possibly getting all class D amps including my 4 channel to reduce on draw from my alternator since they do not make a HO alt for my ride. How do you guys feel about class D 4 channel amps for mids and highs??? I have heard things about them having more noise and not being clear and detailed??? Is that true? Could you recommend any good class D 4 channel amps?

thanks

eddie

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[Buck 5,000+ posts]

i've never heard of a class d 4 channel

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

Class D is best suited for low frequencies so most 4 channel amps are class A/B. In fact, I cant even think of any 4ch class D amps.

4ch amps for speakers dont need to be very powerful so you will be fine running a couple amps with a stock alternator.

Upgrade your battery and you will be OK.

Heck, I run 10,000w on a stock alternator and because of my batteries I keep a full charge all the time.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

i've never heard of a class d 4 channel

Class D is best suited for low frequencies so most 4 channel amps are class A/B. In fact, I cant even think of any 4ch class D amps.

Did I just go through a time warp?

Are Alpine, Eclipse, Lanzar, JL, Blaupunkt not all producing full range class D's now??

Emf -- I can tell you there are SQ competitors having success with the Alpines. That is assuming this is still 2008.

 

[Bun-Bun 10+ year member]

Theres no Class D 4 channles in the sense of Class D monoblocks... but the Alpine PDX are based on a digital design (cant remember the name of the class exactly) and are very efficient (and small!). Check em out.

 

[wu501 10+ year member]

my Eclipse XA4000 id considered a class "D" amplifier design...and it sounds just as good if not better than many class a/b amps I have used in the past.

 

[mattldm 10+ year member]

Pretty sure PDX's are considered class "D"

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

i've never heard of a class d 4 channel

It was said, but the ALpine pdx models are all class D and the JL HD 4 channel is class D I believe.

 

[efm80 10+ year member]

Class D is best suited for low frequencies so most 4 channel amps are class A/B. In fact, I cant even think of any 4ch class D amps.4ch amps for speakers dont need to be very powerful so you will be fine running a couple amps with a stock alternator.

Upgrade your battery and you will be OK.

Heck, I run 10,000w on a stock alternator and because of my batteries I keep a full charge all the time.

10,000 watts!!! how can you do that? How does your stock alt keep your batteries charged?? how many do you have?

there are definitely class D amps and I was looking at the alpine PDX or even the new HD JL. How much more effecient are they?? Will my alternator know the difference?

Also does my 3 amp setup I originally posted seem to be all right for the stock ALT with doing a bigger battery and BIG 3. I have asked before but I am just so nervous to get all my equipment in, to then have voltage and other problems?? thanks!!!

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

will the alt feel the difference...hard to say. Depends on the amt of power and how loud you typically listen.

If you're running 500w

A good class D will be ~75% efficient throughout its range of power

Class a/b's are usually around 60% at their best (full power) and drop to 30% or worse at low volume.

So just to put some numbers to it --

500w class D at full volume (music) will need around 15A rms.

At low-med volume 8-10.

500w class a/b full vol music - ~20A

Low-med vol about 15A

Not a huge diff with that amt of power.

At 1000 and med vol it's about 16A for D vs around 30A for a/b.

 

[efm80 10+ year member]

will the alt feel the difference...hard to say. Depends on the amt of power and how loud you typically listen.
If you're running 500w

A good class D will be ~75% efficient throughout its range of power

Class a/b's are usually around 60% at their best (full power) and drop to 30% or worse at low volume.

So just to put some numbers to it --

500w class D at full volume (music) will need around 15A rms.

At low-med volume 8-10.

500w class a/b full vol music - ~20A

Low-med vol about 15A

Not a huge diff with that amt of power.

At 1000 and med vol it's about 16A for D vs around 30A for a/b.

thanks bro! great info. couple questions though??

1.) So class a/b's are really ineffecient at low volumes?? why is that??

2.) What does "effecient" in terms of amps mean??

3.)when you say "15A rms" is A=amps???

4.) So when you double the wattage which is what I would be doing ( i want the jl 1000/1) there really is a bigger gap in D's effeciency compared to a/b's ineffeciency?

5.) So with that info would you suggest definitely getting a class D sub amp since that is where the majority of your wattage is coming from???

6.) Lastly with the 1000w amp pulling lets say 25A full volume for a class D why do you have to have a 100 amp fuse???

I know thats a lot of questions but I am so interested to know about all of it. Just obsessed with car audio and ever since finding this board with all these amazing car audio buffs is great. thanks for your help!!!!

eddie

 

[denali804 10+ year member]

Amazing how much mis-information this thread contains. Wow......

 

[efm80 10+ year member]

Amazing how much bad information in this thread. Wow......

ya???? please explain???

 

[rc10mike 10+ year member]

What vehicle do you have?

 

[Kold_Killa 10+ year member]

My brother owns an Infinity 4 channel class d amp.