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<blockquote data-quote="efm80" data-source="post: 4828581" data-attributes="member: 597416">thanks bro! great info. couple questions though??1.) So class a/b&#039;s are really ineffecient at low volumes?? why is that??2.) What does &quot;effecient&quot; in terms of amps mean??3.)when you say &quot;15A rms&quot; is A=amps???4.) So when you double the wattage which is what I would be doing ( i want the jl 1000/1) there really is a bigger gap in D&#039;s effeciency compared to a/b&#039;s ineffeciency?5.) So with that info would you suggest definitely getting a class D sub amp since that is where the majority of your wattage is coming from???6.) Lastly with the 1000w amp pulling lets say 25A full volume for a class D why do you have to have a 100 amp fuse???I know thats a lot of questions but I am so interested to know about all of it. Just obsessed with car audio and ever since finding this board with all these amazing car audio buffs is great. thanks for your help!!!!eddie</blockquote>

[QUOTE="efm80, post: 4828581, member: 597416"] thanks bro! great info. couple questions though?? 1.) So class a/b's are really ineffecient at low volumes?? why is that?? 2.) What does "effecient" in terms of amps mean?? 3.)when you say "15A rms" is A=amps??? 4.) So when you double the wattage which is what I would be doing ( i want the jl 1000/1) there really is a bigger gap in D's effeciency compared to a/b's ineffeciency? 5.) So with that info would you suggest definitely getting a class D sub amp since that is where the majority of your wattage is coming from??? 6.) Lastly with the 1000w amp pulling lets say 25A full volume for a class D why do you have to have a 100 amp fuse??? I know thats a lot of questions but I am so interested to know about all of it. Just obsessed with car audio and ever since finding this board with all these amazing car audio buffs is great. thanks for your help!!!! eddie [/QUOTE]

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