check my box build! what do you think? suggestions?

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

45s can help or hurt. I’ve seen both. Don’t know the reasoning but I have also seen people lose on the meter after deadening.

 

[shredder2]

If I had a hatch with your available space and wanted killer lows I'd do something like this...

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

45s can help or hurt. I’ve seen both. Don’t know the reasoning but I have also seen people lose on the meter after deadening.

I dont get how a 45 would hurt, it's flattening out a sharp bend. But I prefer aero ports so thats where all of my experience is for the most part.

You can loose from deadening because it changes the resonance point. After you deaden you need to run a sweep for your new peak then adjust the box around that.

I lost a substantial amount (4-5db) from presumably adding roof mount cross bars due to the stiffening changing resonance and shifting my peak. I have to do more testing to confirm but I don't see 30deg of air temp causing that much change.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

I actually got **** thrown at me for using 45's in my current build enclosure on FB. Said they weren't needed. I've heard they help. So now I'm confused. I'm hoping you can dig into some details for me about weather they're necessary or not.

Thats why you shouldn't waste your time on facefuck.

Anyone who says 45s dont work, look at the aerodynamic advantage that fastback cars had in Nascar in the mid to late 1960s vs their notchback competitors. Same concept.

At the end of the day spl makes no sense. What works for some wont always work for others so you should always test. I am a firm believer in 45s done correctly and more often than not they are beneficial. I saw a Volvo wagon at Slamology doing mid 150s with 2 RF 15s on 2 2500bdcp's with an 8th order. Every single corner inside of that box was 45'ed and compound 45'ed. Its all about guiding the airflow.

 

[devin171moto]

If I had a hatch with your available space and wanted killer lows I'd do something like this...

I had a custom box builder recommend a center slot to me as well, said the slot wiuill act as bracing. but he wanted 700$ for it -_-. for 2 twelves christ. subbox doesnt give me that much design freedom. and im not comfortable building my first box without cut sheets. any design software recommendations? or if you have previously spec'd a box for sa's like someone mentioned. mind sending me the cutsheets? i'd even pay idgaf lol.

 

[devin171moto]

Also, router the end of your port and the square edges on your brace. Basically, don't want any square edges inside of your box. Minimal gain, but it seems like everybody does it these days.

This is my first box build i don't have tools like a router. i'm buying a cheap table saw at lowes just for this project and the cost projection with the table is 200$ so far. if i build another box cuz im not satified with this one i might pick up a router.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

This is my first box build i don't have tools like a router. i'm buying a cheap table saw at lowes just for this project and the cost projection with the table is 200$ so far. if i build another box cuz im not satified with this one i might pick up a router.

I understand totally. If forgot to router a piece inside my box and used a file after it was installed. It's not a must, just more peace of mind. Siliconing the inside of the box at the joints is a good idea as well. Shredder2 designed my first box and I didn't build it perfectly as designed. You will be fine, just don't mess with the size of the box most importantly. 45's and routering are the sprinkles on the cake.

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

Doesn’t need to be rounded over perfectly just 45 the sharp edges off a tad or use a deemel

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Definitely do a center port, it acts as bracing which saves weight and material.

 

[shredder2]

mind sending me the cutsheets? i'd even pay idgaf lol.

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