Cheapest way to sound proof front doors?

[Jroo 10+ year member]

Audio Technix B Stock. You are looking at under 50 bucks and look at the reviews. I havent seen really a bad review. You get what you pay for in most cases and some of the stuff is just a crap shoot. If you are really on a budget look used. Some guys just have some deadner left over from a build and you can get enough to cover a door cheap

 

[jirehn 10+ year member]

Well I think that is great with your limited budget, I think that set up will do.

 

[Boomsday 10+ year member]

Save now, Shine later //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

The cheapest way is to do right the first time, with the best product, with the best knowledge behind it. Only SDS falls into that category.

 

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

the cascade spray at partsexpress.com

it works better on doors than anything because you can spray the inside of the door where the noise starts...

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

CLD such as SDS CLD tiles, RAAMat, Damplifier, etc is a lot easier to use than any spray. There's no need to get every nook and cranny covered in deadener. That's not necessary with a real butyl-backed CLD product.

The arguments about Peel&Seal being cheaper and effective are the thoughts of the misinformed. If there's one post to take note of in the thread whitedragon quoted it's this one. Do yourself a huge favor and read it: Car Audio Classifieds - View Single Post - Vibration test results - P&S or not to P&S, that is the question...

P&S price ($1.396) times two (because you need to use at least two layers to get close to the same performance) = $2.792 to treat one square foot.CLD price ($3.50) divided by four (since it requires only a quarter of the amount) = $0.875 to treat one square foot.

How exactly is using a Peel & Seal product cheaper to use?

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Get a roll of some AT b stock it costs $58 shipped and it works great. I put maybe 3 sqft on my whole door panel which was rattling and flexing a ton and now it is dead silent.

 

[mazdakid 5,000+ posts]

Were the tests done in a car?

 

[MANTI5 10+ year member]

DO NOT LISTEN TO THE DUDE WITH PEAL AND SEAL. Not only is it terrible and isn't even close to being a vibration deadener, it's toxic and very bad for your health. Save up, get the right products or don't do it at all. This is not an area to skimp on.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

Were the tests done in a car?

bro you are just butthurt because you're too poor to afford a real deadiner and have to stand by the cheapest peel n seal and call it effective when it is not. Vibration test results - P&S or not to P&S, that is the question... - Car Audio Classifieds

get some info on all deadiner companies. i will use nothing but alphadamp myself. but audiotechnix is a good start .

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

while i agree P&S is not to be used in a car - it will do something - it will add mass which will have a effect in changing the resonant frequency of the sheet metal.

I second the recommendation for Raammat BXTII stuff is awesome for the price.

foam behind the speaker just absorbs water.

i will be trying some fiberglass batt that is sealed in thin plastic bags that are secured to the door skin. we use similar products in natatoriums (pools) where we need sound absorption that is protected from moisture. 4" thick or so would be effective in lowering reverberation inside the door cavity.

if you want to further lower road noise, you can add vinyl flooring remnants as a barrier on the door between the panel and door metal. not the same as MLV and does not offer the same transmission loss - but it'll do something.

true deadener provides damping. damping is what you want. but it requires viscoelastic and elastomeric properties that simply cost more than asphalt.

 

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

I used the 60 mil AT on my trunk and love it! Deadner isn't something you should cheap out on, unless you want to go through and do it again. Just save up a bit more money and do it right the first time.

 

[MANTI5 10+ year member]

This is not a cheap hobby, you can get deals for sure but if you can't afford the proper products then you have to save up. Roofing products are made for that and THAT ONLY. Asphalt gives off very toxic fumes whether you smell it or not, you will use more and thus NOT save much at all, and when you decide to do it right it is a beech to remove if it doesn't decide to just fall off on it's on. Have fun cleaning that up.

 

[mazdakid 5,000+ posts]

bro you are just butthurt because you're too poor to afford a real deadiner and have to stand by the cheapest peel n seal and call it effective when it is not. Vibration test results - P&S or not to P&S, that is the question... - Car Audio Classifieds


get some info on all deadiner companies. i will use nothing but alphadamp myself. but audiotechnix is a good start .

Im poor? Lol ok bud

I only stand by it because its the only kind ive ever used and it works for me.

Im butthurt because i asked if the tests were done in a car? Thats where i listen to my system and where i would use the tested product, so i asked.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

Audio technix and ram matt if u can afford it, it you can't afford that audio technix b stock, if you really really need to be cheap fatmat will do the trick for cheap however beware it uses asphault can stink for a couple days, also if u use fatmat apply it very firmly as heat will cause it to slip or loosen. Audio technix is my personal fav coleman is a great rep price is fair and it works wonders.