Chads build log


chadwilliam1

Member
Oct 2, 2017
66
3
cincinnati, ohio
I am redoing my current set up. I pulled everything out. I have a XR600-6DSP and 2 Rf 1200.1d amps with dual RF p3 wired to 2 ohms and kenwood 4 channel to power the front dash speakers. Everything performed well but i wanted a ported box.

So i had a box designed and i modified it a bit to meet my needs. I ditched the RF amps for a wolfram 4500 watt amp and a DC elite XL 12". Right now i completely gutted the trunk and i am working a close to a 100 percent dynamat xtreme coverage. I am having my headliner removed so i can apply soundskins pro on the roof as well. I am also adding two XS Power XP750SE in the trunk and I recently replaced the front battery with an XS Power D3400. The amp wont be in for a few weeks but its motorcycle riding season so it doesn’t matter to me, i have all summer to get this done.

Previous build, this is really my first attempt at a build. I was happy with but there was some things i wanted to change. 20180401_234205.jpg

20171022_110613.jpg

Here i am building the new box, i chose to use biscuit, probably overkill but i wanted to make a strong box. 20190423_110210.jpg

I made a little jig to help hold the wall of the port while the glue dries.

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I stained the port and put a bull nose on the end of it.

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Here is my test fit. The sub is going to be aiming at the hole where the stock sub was that i removed.

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The port will be to the left of the window and the inside of the box will be white with a 3/4 acrylic window.  this is how it will sit. Right now i dont want to build vertical supports for inside the box but I might have to. I am considering some options to make the top stronger. One of my thoughts is to make it out of 3/4 birch or (2) 1/2 layers of mdf. I dont want to go much thicker due to

fitting it in the trunk. Its pretty tight.

20190505_220743.jpg

Here is my battery set up for the spare tire spot. I have fans under the kenwood amp and I am planning on adding more fans to keep air moving not sure yet how I want to do it yet. One fuse holder is going to be my remote signal distribution and the other is going to be for my fan distribution controlled by an smd fan controller.

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Boomin_tahoe

Hurtin' feelings errrday.
10+ year member
Jul 24, 2005
15,280
137
WA
Not too bad looking really. I would ditch the cap tho. Once you upgrade the electrical, it becomes useless. Another thing is I would strongly suggest bracing the inside of that enclosure. That much power from the Wolfram (good choice on amp btw) that sub/enclosure will show signs of flexing. @shredder2 can prob help ya on some bracing ideas if your able to.

Not to show off but I too plan on running some Wolfram amps myself...

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PPVtahoe11

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 13, 2018
99
24
Kinda hard to tell but what’s up with the port on the new box? Looks like it doesn’t fit all the way? Anyways u want the port to aim throw the hole in the rear deck and not the woofer. 😎

 
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chadwilliam1

Member
Oct 2, 2017
66
3
cincinnati, ohio
Kinda hard to tell but what’s up with the port on the new box? Looks like it doesn’t fit all the way? Anyways u want the port to aim throw the hole in the rear deck and not the woofer. 😎
I have to make the top for it still, and rout out the hole in the box for it. It will aim towards the back and the sub will point up. Its the best orientation for my trunk for utility purposes.

 
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chadwilliam1

Member
Oct 2, 2017
66
3
cincinnati, ohio
Not too bad looking really. I would ditch the cap tho. Once you upgrade the electrical, it becomes useless. Another thing is I would strongly suggest bracing the inside of that enclosure. That much power from the Wolfram (good choice on amp btw) that sub/enclosure will show signs of flexing. @shredder2 can prob help ya on some bracing ideas if your able to.

Not to show off but I too plan on running some Wolfram amps myself...

View attachment 5324
Nice amps, i originally welded up some braces for the inside when i planned on having the sub rear facing. Since i changed it to top mounted i have not decided how to brace it. One thing i will do is use my port as a brace. Once i get the top of the port cut I will make something to support the top. I am taking my time since my amp wont even ship for another week or so.

 
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chadwilliam1

Member
Oct 2, 2017
66
3
cincinnati, ohio
Here i made a template for my window and drilled my holes. 20190515_234751.jpg

Test fit the window. I need to countersink the holes and make the gasket for it.

20190517_103056.jpg

After this project i am planning an a pillar build so i purchased these.

20190518_095544.jpg

I carpeted the box and the amp will be delivered on thursday.

 

Boomin_tahoe

Hurtin' feelings errrday.
10+ year member
Jul 24, 2005
15,280
137
WA
Doing something similar except its a plexi recessed over the amp and LEDs under it to showcase the amp. I'm still waiting for a part for my machine so I can countersink some bolt holes in it.

 
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DRBOOM

CarAudio.com Well Known
Nov 21, 2018
249
51
Looking good mate!  Just use some glue where it joins and it will not be noticeable.  Winning!!! :suave:

 
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chadwilliam1

Member
Oct 2, 2017
66
3
cincinnati, ohio
Upgraded my fuse block. One goes to the cars electrical system, the 1/0 goes to my bass amp and a I added a third run for my dsp/6 channel amp while I was st it. Figured it was easier to run it now than later. Took me a while to figure out where to put it but I am happy with the end result.  20190516_022130.jpg 20190526_113202.jpg

 

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