Car Audio shop fried my amp?

Also, just found a sweet freaking deal to solve all of my problems. Brand new display unit. Only used slightly for display SOUNDQUBED 3500.1. I believe this one ought to beat those poor kickers to sleep literally. Best part of all, I'm trading something that cost me $300 and worth less now, for the amp! Will know if guy accepts trade this evening. I have my fingers crossed!
And yet you still do not have the electrical to back it up...I forsee another paperweight in your future

Just trying to save you some money and frustration bro, it takes power to make power.

 
And yet you still do not have the electrical to back it up...I forsee another paperweight in your future
Just trying to save you some money and frustration bro, it takes power to make power.
No, I'm going to run it myself. I'm not leaving it wired that way. Alt will be upgraded as well.

 
my question is what you wanna do with that amp? Since its worthless now
Last time it was fixed within a day's time and the labor was an hour or less. At this point, I think finding a one ohm stable amp is my best bet, instead of getting new subs and box, so I'll entertain offers for it. The power light still comes on with active remote wire, and the indicator is green, not red, as in protect mode. Just produces no sound... But I wouldn't call it worthless
 
So far, I removed the crappy 4 gauge from battery (back up) to amp. Both ground and Power are now 1/0! I plan to run the big 3 today under the hood. Should I fuse the ALT + to the Battery +? Or should the fuse I have from Battery (under hood) to amp suffice? Thanks in advance for any help!

 
So far, I removed the crappy 4 gauge from battery (back up) to amp. Both ground and Power are now 1/0! I plan to run the big 3 today under the hood. Should I fuse the ALT + to the Battery +? Or should the fuse I have from Battery (under hood) to amp suffice? Thanks in advance for any help!
Its always safe to fuse wires but as of now, you dont have a high output alternator so there's not much amperage going to the alt to the battery. Also you might want another shuriken 2400 if you dont plan on upgrading the alternator at all.. It'll shorten the life of your current alternator but it will keep your amps alive at least.

 
Its always safe to fuse wires but as of now, you dont have a high output alternator so there's not much amperage going to the alt to the battery. Also you might want another shuriken 2400 if you dont plan on upgrading the alternator at all.. It'll shorten the life of your current alternator but it will keep your amps alive at least.
Appreciate the knowledge chef! Another quick question, I understand some of the logic to the big three but my main concerns (2) falls within the + from battery to alt..
1) If my current alt. is stock, and not high output, is the adding of a bigger gauge wire theoretically useful? Or a waste of time?

2) If it does help, when I run + battery to alt., do I just add the new wire to the existing one from the factory that goes up in the alt.? Will it all fit lol?

 
Its always safe to fuse wires but as of now, you dont have a high output alternator so there's not much amperage going to the alt to the battery.
Fuse is to protect the battery which is why it's supposed to be within 18" of it. If the wire gets pinched and shorts out the battery could explode.

Appreciate the knowledge chef! Another quick question, I understand some of the logic to the big three but my main concerns (2) falls within the + from battery to alt..
1) If my current alt. is stock, and not high output, is the adding of a bigger gauge wire theoretically useful? Or a waste of time?

2) If it does help, when I run + battery to alt., do I just add the new wire to the existing one from the factory that goes up in the alt.? Will it all fit lol?
1) It's not a waste of time, less resistance means better power transfer from your alt to your amp.

2) Always add, do not remove the stock wiring. It may be a bit tight on the alt terminal, if so look for thin ring terminals. I know I've used some in the past from Knu that were like 1/4" thick and they didn't like to fit on stock bolts like that but cheaper welding terminals tend to have a thinner ring.

 
Fuse is to protect the battery which is why it's supposed to be within 18" of it. If the wire gets pinched and shorts out the battery could explode.


1) It's not a waste of time, less resistance means better power transfer from your alt to your amp.

2) Always add, do not remove the stock wiring. It may be a bit tight on the alt terminal, if so look for thin ring terminals. I know I've used some in the past from Knu that were like 1/4" thick and they didn't like to fit on stock bolts like that but cheaper welding terminals tend to have a thinner ring.
Appreciate the knowledge bro! Sorry if I came off as a troll earlier, but it was mistaken for my ignorance. Strictly here to learn, and help (lol, like someone would need it) if I can.
I was thinking of keeping my stock alt., that's the reason I asked. I'm not wanting to do competition, just a little bumpity bump every now and then.

PS. Just realized there are "likes" & "thanks" on here.... I owe a few of you guys some. Coming soon!

 
Appreciate the knowledge bro! Sorry if I came off as a troll earlier, but it was mistaken for my ignorance. Strictly here to learn, and help (lol, like someone would need it) if I can.
I was thinking of keeping my stock alt., that's the reason I asked. I'm not wanting to do competition, just a little bumpity bump every now and then.

PS. Just realized there are "likes" & "thanks" on here.... I owe a few of you guys some. Coming soon!
What don't you understand about you're going to need a HO alt for a 4k amp, yes that aq can do 4k.

You will just burn up stock alts. If it would be cheaper, get a dual alt bracket and run two stock alts.

 
What don't you understand about you're going to need a HO alt for a 4k amp, yes that aq can do 4k.You will just burn up stock alts. If it would be cheaper, get a dual alt bracket and run two stock alts.
Yeah, I'm going to go lesser on the amp. Sorry for the confusion...

 
Also, my factory alternator is 145 amp. I could get a h/o alternator for $140ish and would bump it up to 250 amps, but may not need with a smaller amp. I mean let's face it, that AQ would have destroyed those subpar subs.... jus sayin...

 
Also, my factory alternator is 145 amp. I could get a h/o alternator for $140ish and would bump it up to 250 amps, but may not need with a smaller amp. I mean let's face it, that AQ would have destroyed those subpar subs.... jus sayin...
Well you can adjust the gain down to what they will actually take until you upgrade. If you plan to.

 
your stock alt should handle up to 2.5k but it'll still have a short life. Look into getting a mechman, or singer H/O alt if you want to go nuts without worry. Singer has a payment plan.
Ok. I was actually looking into the same exact amp you have in your signature. Money is not the problem, as the alternator is 12 years old anyway. So when it does take a crap, I'll just replace it with a h/o then. Quickly glancing, I saw a few rated at 250 amp for $120ish- $150ish. Is mechman or singer built any better than the ones I saw in the price range I stated?

 
Well you can adjust the gain down to what they will actually take until you upgrade. If you plan to.
Yeah man, I love Loud music, but after visiting this forum, I see some people love it a lot more lol. I don't think I'll be upgrading. In my small hick town, those (8) Kickers are like Godzilla to these people lol. I'm ok with being subpar on a serious level, and a Hero on a local level lol. Just kidding.
 
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