Car Audio shop fried my amp?

Callin BS right there. No stock alt I've ever heard of is capable of powering a true 2500w amp. You either had the gains low enough that you weren't actually drawing 2500w or your voltmeter is junk. No matter what amp/wiring combo you use, if you try to draw more current than your alt can supply you will get voltage drop, and with voltage drop comes the possibility of burning up your amplifier. Car audio 101.
2500w @ 14V is 178A and that's assuming your amplifier is 100% efficient (which it's not) and also not accounting for the current the rest of your car's electronics need.

Did you read the first post? The amp was wired at 4 ohms. I agree there still would be some voltage drop, but probably not too bad since the amp would have only been putting out around 1000-1200 watts

 
Did you read the first post? The amp was wired at 4 ohms. I agree there still would be some voltage drop, but probably not too bad since the amp would have only been putting out around 1000-1200 watts
Subs are wired at 1 ohm, or as close to 1 ohm as you can get.

 
Anyone else feeling this way feel free to call Tint Plus in Sandy Springs, SC. Ask about the 2010 SILVER JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LOL, 153.3 ALL DAY!
so was this a 53.3 burp? what freq, cause the 149.9 was my bass race class I burped a 53 at 30hz

 
Yup, troll. No shop would "give away" any 2 sets of components to try to make up for a mistake in addition to fixing said mistake. If there is even a sliver of a possibility this story is real that shop is not going to stay open for much longer.

 
It's all good. Owner of shop was super nice and is going back over everything how I wanted it at no cost. Said he couldn't do much about the used amp, but said to come up and get any (2) sets of components I wanted, on top of the wiring upgrade. The amp had gone out before, but I had it fixed in Atlanta. To be honest, I hooked up a friend's Planet Audio BB4000.1 to the (8) kicker tens, wired how it is now, and honestly may sound a little louder to the naked ear over the KICKER ZX2500.1???
What Gives?

Why do i have a feeling you have the kickers wired too low and your old ZX2500 cant handle the low impedance and thats why you blew it several times.... With your subs, you can only have 4 ohm wiring and 1 ohm wiring, As stated before, that kicker amp can only be stable at 2 ohms, any lower, it'll lose power and stability. That planet audio amp is 1 ohm stable thats why you can get more power out of it without it blowing like the kicker.

EDIT:

I called and the audio shop you took it to and they used really really old school mics to measure how loud you are. Hitting 155+ dbs with the old mics are child's play. your system is closer to 145s in real world national competition where they use solid state mics buddy.

You cant expect us to take you seriously when you wire 1 ohm to an amp that can only handle 2 ohms.

No offense but your also surrounded by a circle of jack-offs that disregard the basics of car audio, and is giving you misinformation and stupid advice.

 
Why do i have a feeling you have the kickers wired too low and your old ZX2500 cant handle the low impedance and thats why you blew it several times.... With your subs, you can only have 4 ohm wiring and 1 ohm wiring, As stated before, that kicker amp can only be stable at 2 ohms, any lower, it'll lose power and stability. That planet audio amp is 1 ohm stable thats why you can get more power out of it without it blowing like the kicker.
EDIT:

I called and the audio shop you took it to and they used really really old school mics to measure how loud you are. Hitting 155+ dbs with the old mics are child's play. your system is closer to 145s in real world national competition where they use solid state mics buddy.

You cant expect us to take you seriously when you wire 1 ohm to an amp that can only handle 2 ohms.

No offense but your also surrounded by a circle of jack-offs that disregard the basics of car audio, and is giving you misinformation and stupid advice.
You're probably right. I'm not a competition guy, or claim to be a master installer. I was under the impression my zx2500.1 was stable at 1 ohm, but goes to show my ignorance. I don't doubt you called and they explained the mic was out of date or misleading, all I know it what the meter said when I was done. I know my system isn't the loudest, I know there are systems that make mine sound like a pair of $20 tweeters, but for what I put into it, I am satisfied on a local level.
I just noticed that the car audio technology has far surpassed my area's level of knowledge, so decided, it can't be rocket science, I SIMPLY CAME HERE TO LEARN...

 
Yup, troll. No shop would "give away" any 2 sets of components to try to make up for a mistake in addition to fixing said mistake. If there is even a sliver of a possibility this story is real that shop is not going to stay open for much longer.
Maybe they won't be in business long, and the components weren't offered until I said I'd send my amp back to Kicker for them to troubleshoot the cause of error. Along with calling the BBB, and filing a complaint, which would go into mediation, and eventually said company has to meet customer's needs any how. But you don't have to take my word, or give two more thoughts to it. I have learned my lesson, and plan on messing up my own audio equipment from now on lol

 
so was this a 53.3 burp? what freq, cause the 149.9 was my bass race class I burped a 53 at 30hz
I can call and ask if they know any more details, but I don't. I do know they said it hit so hard because of the boxes design, but not sure what it was tuned it. Not afraid to admit burps, & frequencies are like juevos & perros to me; a foreign language. Just here to learn and observe my man.
 
I'll break the meter out later to be sure, but I'm sure the ohm load was close to 1. Possibly around 1.3??? Punished the amp for 4-5 years, only malfunctioned twice. Mostly my fault still pounding it after the temp has risen. I know that isn't smart, but what can I say? I max em, break em, and buy some more.

 
Also, just found a sweet freaking deal to solve all of my problems. Brand new display unit. Only used slightly for display SOUNDQUBED 3500.1. I believe this one ought to beat those poor kickers to sleep literally. Best part of all, I'm trading something that cost me $300 and worth less now, for the amp! Will know if guy accepts trade this evening. I have my fingers crossed!

 
I can call and ask if they know any more details, but I don't. I do know they said it hit so hard because of the boxes design, but not sure what it was tuned it. Not afraid to admit burps, & frequencies are like juevos & perros to me; a foreign language. Just here to learn and observe my man.
Audio frequency - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

for your sub's bass, its generally within the 80hz and under region. Getting loud at a lower frequency is a lot harder then lets say a 50hz burp which is a pure 50hz tone played.

One question, What did they have you do when it was your turn to compete? play songs or ....

 
Audio frequency - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
for your sub's bass, its generally within the 80hz and under region. Getting loud at a lower frequency is a lot harder then lets say a 50hz burp which is a pure 50hz tone played.

One question, What did they have you do when it was your turn to compete? play songs or ....
Yeah, it wasn't NOPI or anything like a super serious show. It was a local gathering. I ran it through twice in which one run was called the outlaw where you could open and close doors, etc. for higher numbers. The real competition, I just pulled up, closed off all doors and windows for a testing. Can't remember how long I sat, but not more than 60 seconds. I was using a bass cd, but not songs, just tones. The higher the track, the lower the tone. I went pretty high up through the playlist, letting each sound only play for maybe 2-5 seconds. Hope this helps some...

But in all actuality, it was just a local bass show in a town where not one shop knows anything about a big 3 lol.

 
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