Sorry, it was somebody else. Try the VFL65's and get back to me.
I had those installed in my last car. They sounded pretty good, even in my undeadened door although I was surprised that my new car's stock speakers sounded better. I don't think the actual driver quality is better, I just think the new car has better deadening built in than the old one ever did. Deadening definitely plays as large of a role in the quality of the door speakers as the choice in driver does.I would go with these component speakers in the front. Excellent value. I have hear these speakers in several setups over the years. They are winners.
Polk Audio DB6501
Amazon.com: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver): Car Electronics
Amazon.com: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver): Car Electronics
this amp bridged will provide plenty of power (90$)
Amazon.com: Taramps DS 440X4 2 Ohms 4 Channels 440 Watts Compact Amplifier: Electronics
Buy Taramps DS 440X4 2 Ohms 4 Channels 440 Watts Compact Amplifier: Multichannel Amplifiers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
It's true the previous options are a bit overkill for the car, but if the speakers are valuable enough there's nothing wrong taking them to the next car. They're 6 1/2"s and even with stock speakers back in it'll sound just fine with the treatment still there. My first car cost 3k and I spent 1.3k over the years on sound equipment for it, I don't personally regret it but it would probably seem like too much as one single expenditure considering the structural frame was completely rusting out lol. When I switched from that car to the next one I brought over about $900 in equipment out of the 1.3k. I had to drive it, so the extra gear made it less miserable.Bob's recommendations include a good brand named Taramps which are known for cheap but high quality amps. I recommend them as well, but something to be aware of with many of their models (including the multi-channel one mentioned, TS400x4 or DS-440x4 can't tell which was intended), is they don't have a variable highpass/lowpass cutoff so you'll be reliant on either a sound processor bought separately, the head unit's limited fixed HPF options, or the amp's limited fixed option for picking your crossover points.
I mean I don’t disagree with your strategy but for the time it takes to out old factory stuff back in is it worth moving out a $100 deck and a set of speakers. I guess that was my point. I’ve never sold a vehicle and put it back to factory from a hu and speakers perspective. Taking the sub and amp stage makes sense. He’ll be able to put those polks to the headunit power and reconnect the factory doors if he sells it.It's true the previous options are a bit overkill for the car, but if the speakers are valuable enough there's nothing wrong taking them to the next car. They're 6 1/2"s and even with stock speakers back in it'll sound just fine with the treatment still there. My first car cost 3k and I spent 1.3k over the years on sound equipment for it, I don't personally regret it but it would probably seem like too much as one single expenditure considering the structural frame was completely rusting out lol. When I switched from that car to the next one I brought over about $900 in equipment out of the 1.3k. I had to drive it, so the extra gear made it less miserable.
I mean I don’t disagree with your strategy but for the time it takes to out old factory stuff back in is it worth moving out a $100 deck and a set of speakers. I guess that was my point. I’ve never sold a vehicle and put it back to factory from a hu and speakers perspective. Taking the sub and amp stage makes sense. He’ll be able to put those polks to the headunit power and reconnect the factory doors if he sells it.
also on the active comment, crutchfield stats read wonky. If active is possible a set of tweets and flutes in the mildly treaters front doors has great potential. Didn’t want to discourage a 130$ solution that would likely sound better than any component set approaching $300. Maybe one of you guys that reads better than I can chime in.
- Tweeter: Set high pass filter (HPF) for tweeters.
- Frequency: 1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz
- Gain: -8 to 0 dB
- Front & Rear: Independently set high pass filter (HPF) for front & rear speakers.
- Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
- Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
- Gain: -8 to 0 dB
- Sub: Set low pass filter (LPF) for the sub output.
- Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
- Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
- Phase: Reverse (180°), Normal (0°)
- Gain: -8 to 0 dB