I mean I don’t disagree with your strategy but for the time it takes to out old factory stuff back in is it worth moving out a $100 deck and a set of speakers. I guess that was my point. I’ve never sold a vehicle and put it back to factory from a hu and speakers perspective. Taking the sub and amp stage makes sense. He’ll be able to put those polks to the headunit power and reconnect the factory doors if he sells it.
also on the active comment,
crutchfield stats read wonky. If active is possible a set of tweets and flutes in the mildly treaters front doors has great potential. Didn’t want to discourage a 130$ solution that would likely sound better than any component set approaching $300. Maybe one of you guys that reads better than I can chime in.
- Tweeter: Set high pass filter (HPF) for tweeters.
- Frequency: 1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz
- Gain: -8 to 0 dB
- Front & Rear: Independently set high pass filter (HPF) for front & rear speakers.
- Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
- Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
- Gain: -8 to 0 dB
- Sub: Set low pass filter (LPF) for the sub output.
- Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
- Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
- Phase: Reverse (180°), Normal (0°)
- Gain: -8 to 0 dB