Car audio questions from bad sound from subwoofers... Bass is different, Electromagnetic Interfence?

[BassErex]

Hello, i have questions from low notes in my car...
My system info and my problem: https://www.caraudio.com/threads/ba...imes-bass-subwoofer-problem-bass-loss.613260/
Issue: Sounds like crap. Bass is not loud, no soft or weird.
1. This issue, not great sound, can be caused by Electromagnetic interfence? (Problem is going on two amps,)
2. Is there a possibility, that there are any properties in the quality of the current?
3. Is bad grounding, causing no voltage drops or small? I dont see difference with voltage drops, if system play good or bad, voltage drops this same, Could there just be a meager difference, which can affect the sound though?
(My amp grounds from battery and head unit, but, after silent listening, amp, and head unit is warm, normally?)
3. 2. Are amps and HU ground from battery (IN TRUNK) its not good connection? My Ground wire from amps is more longer than power wire (power wire about 80cm, ground about 1,5meter per wire) Its can be problem?
4. what else can affect my low notes sound? Bass is not clean and loud, no soft. Sometimes bass can play better much... I checked all connections, grounds, fuses, its look good... all audio system is fine, there is nothing defective.
5. How did you fix your weak bass issues?
Thanks.

Click to read more...

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

Does the bass sound bad or is just not as loud as it should be? Enclosure specs? What woofer?

 

[BassErex]

Does the bass sound bad or is just not as loud as it should be? Enclosure specs? What woofer?

Bass is bad, or weird, or only freq above 35hz can play better, It's hard for me to say, because it changes itself.
Subwoofers tested: ORG Clarion sw 3012, Custom 110l 35hz 8 aeroport Audio System Xion 15-1000, Custom 2x excursion sxx 15v2, 8 aeroport, 33hz tuning, 200l netto box.
I don't think the problem lies with the subwoofer, The difference can be heard on both amplifiers, if bass is better on amplifier which play all the music frequencies,
that was a huge difference too on subwoofers, bass much louder and bass softer...
Going one way bass like crap
and comming back to home, bass can sound better.. Why?
When it plays fine, engine off, and start back, can ruin my sound.. Why? Bad ground? All connections are good... Or..
its Electromagnetic interfence can ruin my sound?

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I doubt it's electronmagnetic interference since that tends to happen at high frequencies. You've eliminated the subs and the amp, so it's either wiring or the head unit.

 

[BassErex]

I doubt it's electronmagnetic interference since that tends to happen at high frequencies. You've eliminated the subs and the amp, so it's either wiring or the head unit.

So not worth it warp all power wires with aluminium tape, and connect to ground?
Head unit is fine, other cables i think good too.. I fight with this issue from 2019 year on two cars and different System audio, wires itp... But this two cars is mazda, mazda 323f ba and now mazda 6...
Maybe, Car can change acoustic from second to second, or standing wave?
Maybe someone had a similar problem and solved it?

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

My guess would be a bad ground. Like grounding to a seat or seat belt bolt.

 

[BassErex]

My guess would be a bad ground. Like grounding to a seat or seat belt bolt.

Hello back, sorry i lost in time.
I have ground from battery, so its cant be good? more better can be parrarel ground amp to car body, and from this same point wires to battery? My hu ground is too from battery, find a nearest ground point from hu?
Thanks

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Hello back, sorry i lost in time.
I have ground from battery, so its cant be good? more better can be parrarel ground amp to car body, and from this same point wires to battery? My hu ground is too from battery, find a nearest ground point from hu?
Thanks

Just thought of something else. When using my phone as a music source, I get notifications that supercede the music apps. Sometimes the audio does not return to it's normal level. Try using a different music source, see if results are different.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

Hello back, sorry i lost in time.
I have ground from battery, so its cant be good? more better can be parrarel ground amp to car body, and from this same point wires to battery? My hu ground is too from battery, find a nearest ground point from hu?
Thanks

The amp is grounded straight to the battery?

 

[BassErex]

The amp is grounded straight to the battery?

Yes, but wire is about 1,5 meter per wire ground, power wire is more shorter beacause terminal power is closer. Too long wire ground?
PS: I noticed that my more powerful amplifier and hu, they are warm when you listen to them quietly, normally? Hu dont have connected speakers, only powering rca wires.

Just thought of something else. When using my phone as a music source, I get notifications that supercede the music apps. Sometimes the audio does not return to it's normal level. Try using a different music source, see if results are different.

i had sometimes such diferences, on another source played better, but not always and it was changing..
Lately i cant sterr on full power my amps from AUX/BT. Always reliable weak signal from my phone (Phone is not problem, i tried others too). Maximum output from aux/bt is about 1,5 volts (on strong rebassed songs) from my hu (HU clipping at 4,4v) average output is about 0,6volts on music. Hu is CDE 178bt, kenwood have too problem with voltage (or its normall).
So, its cant be ground problem? it sounds like bad currents went into amplifiers
and ruined the sound,
sometimes before a long drive i removing from battery my amp grounds and i relieved the tension, by shorting the amplifier terminal ( + to - with small wire) and i I reconnected the ground. It often got better and it played better.
(Hu ground too i removing, so it didn't pull ground from rca)
Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[BassErex]

UPDATE:
I think, problem found,
I didn't really notice anything else... So
Talking to someone about this problem, I mentioned it that giving multimetr cables to ground connect amp, and to amp body, i see voltage on multimeter, on my Hifonics brx 12000, when i give multimeter wires to ground and amp body, voltage is about 11v and dropping, it can drop to 0 volts but on lower voltage ( under 1 volt) voltagr drop is slow.
Hecking voltage on rodek 2180a, no droping, voltage this same what the battery...
Now i tested voltages: Rodek: 0,000v volt, BRX 12000 0,7v.

It was the same with another subwoofer amplifier, so amps is fine.
Today ride from my work, bass so nice, soft, loud and feel good presure on body....
it must be a problem,
it can also affect rca signal, if i put on rca connector ground multimeter wire, and for body car i have this same voltage (0,7 and drooping)
Do you know what this is about?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Unless it is a simple, say a 500 watt install where I’m only running 1 or 2 amp/cap grounds, I run power and ground front to back. I don’t chassis ground anymore, well not on unibody cars anyway. I always double the size of the return (ground) run. Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 2.5T (unibody), I run 1/0 gauge OFC copper to 2nd battery in the back for power and 2/0 gauge OFC wire back to the front for ground and use breakers/fuses (breakers under the hood when I can) and fuses at both ends, distribution blocks for power and ground. Mazda build has (4) 4AWG grounds and (2) 1/0 AWG grounds, (6 fairly big grounds) for (2) Focal FPS2300’s and a single DS18 EXL-P2500X1D, the extra three are for (2) T-spec 3 farad caps, 1 each of the Focal amps, a stinger 5 farad hybrid cap for the DS18). Granted, the T-spec caps are most likely not needed but they do look cool and they were $50 less than the Focal High-Cap units! I know everyone has an opinion on this type of grounding configuration but I’ve never had any ground (or ground loop or power starvation from lack of ground) issue since I started doing it this way. I believe in the “overbuilt is better” philosophy! Also, twisted pair RCA’s and speaker wire ensure no need to foil wrap anything (have not seen that in a long time). Additionally, none of your speaker wires should run paralalle to your power/ground wires but if they must intersect, only at 90 degree angles. I've seen this post before, the box and subs look to be correct. I know it's a pain and can be time consuming and costly, but sometimes you just gotta take a different angle, pull ALL your wiring connections and try something else. My 2 cents...

 

[BassErex]

Subwoofers is 2x 15, and yes, propertly wirred I used pre amp crossovers and eq, it in every way, and other various settings (Amps itp) Not working, no diferences.
Battery is new and very strong, alternator is good too. I have small voltage drops! This issue it may even be on 100watts amplifier and small subwoofer with one coil! with first instal system its can give clean nice bass but
will die after some time.
I think these voltages on the amplifier housing affects the radio signal rca,
and every amp sounds bad

Unless it is a simple, say a 500 watt install where I’m only running 1 or 2 amp/cap grounds, I run power and ground front to back. I don’t chassis ground anymore, well not on unibody cars anyway. I always double the size of the return (ground) run. Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 2.5T (unibody), I run 1/0 gauge OFC copper to 2nd battery in the back for power and 2/0 gauge OFC wire back to the front for ground and use breakers/fuses (breakers under the hood when I can) and fuses at both ends, distribution blocks for power and ground. Mazda build has (4) 4AWG grounds and (2) 1/0 AWG grounds, (6 fairly big grounds) for (2) Focal FPS2300’s and a single DS18 EXL-P2500X1D, the extra three are for (2) T-spec 3 farad caps, 1 each of the Focal amps, a stinger 5 farad hybrid cap for the DS18). Granted, the T-spec caps are most likely not needed but they do look cool and they were $50 less than the Focal High-Cap units! I know everyone has an opinion on this type of grounding configuration but I’ve never had any ground (or ground loop or power starvation from lack of ground) issue since I started doing it this way. I believe in the “overbuilt is better” philosophy! Also, twisted pair RCA’s and speaker wire ensure no need to foil wrap anything (have not seen that in a long time). Additionally, none of your speaker wires should run paralalle to your power/ground wires but if they must intersect, only at 90 degree angles. I've seen this post before, the box and subs look to be correct. I know it's a pain and can be time consuming and costly, but sometimes you just gotta take a different angle, pull ALL your wiring connections and try something else. My 2 cents...

Excatly i have per one 50mm2 wires extra ground from: Alt body -> to chasis -> to battery in trunk
and same: Engine -) Chasis-> batt.
So it's just worth adding the cables from the battery to another place and doubling it to the amplifier?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Subwoofers is 2x 15, and yes, propertly wirred I used pre amp crossovers and eq, it in every way, and other various settings (Amps itp) Not working, no diferences.
Battery is new and very strong, alternator is good too. I have small voltage drops! This issue it may even be on 100watts amplifier and small subwoofer with one coil! with first instal system its can give clean nice bass but
will die after some time.
I think these voltages on the amplifier housing affects the radio signal rca,
and every amp sounds bad

View attachment 50987

Excatly i have per one 50mm2 wires extra ground from: Alt body -> to chasis -> to battery in trunk
and same: Engine -) Chasis-> batt.
So it's just worth adding the cables from the battery to another place and doubling it to the amplifier?

Check out this article on Parallel grounding, maybe it will help!

https://www.bestcaraudio.com/car-audio-myths-you-cant-ground-a-car-audio-amplifier-to-the-battery/