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Car audio questions from bad sound from subwoofers... Bass is different, Electromagnetic Interfence?
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8849310" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>Unless it is a simple, say a 500 watt install where I’m only running 1 or 2 amp/cap grounds, I run power and ground front to back. I don’t chassis ground anymore, well not on unibody cars anyway. I always double the size of the return (ground) run. Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 2.5T (unibody), I run 1/0 gauge OFC copper to 2nd battery in the back for power and 2/0 gauge OFC wire back to the front for ground and use breakers/fuses (breakers under the hood when I can) and fuses at both ends, distribution blocks for power and ground. Mazda build has (4) 4AWG grounds and (2) 1/0 AWG grounds, (6 fairly big grounds) for (2) Focal FPS2300’s and a single <em>DS18 EXL</em>-<em>P2500X1D, the extra three are for (2) T-spec 3 farad caps, 1 each of the Focal amps, a stinger 5 farad hybrid cap for the DS18).</em> Granted, the T-spec caps are most likely not needed but they do look cool and they were $50 less than the Focal High-Cap units! I know everyone has an opinion on this type of grounding configuration but I’ve never had any ground (or ground loop or power starvation from lack of ground) issue since I started doing it this way. I believe in the “overbuilt is better” philosophy! Also, twisted pair RCA’s and speaker wire ensure no need to foil wrap anything (have not seen that in a long time). Additionally, none of your speaker wires should run paralalle to your power/ground wires but if they must intersect, only at 90 degree angles. I've seen this post before, the box and subs look to be correct. I know it's a pain and can be time consuming and costly, but sometimes you just gotta take a different angle, pull ALL your wiring connections and try something else. My 2 cents...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8849310, member: 689267"] Unless it is a simple, say a 500 watt install where I’m only running 1 or 2 amp/cap grounds, I run power and ground front to back. I don’t chassis ground anymore, well not on unibody cars anyway. I always double the size of the return (ground) run. Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 2.5T (unibody), I run 1/0 gauge OFC copper to 2nd battery in the back for power and 2/0 gauge OFC wire back to the front for ground and use breakers/fuses (breakers under the hood when I can) and fuses at both ends, distribution blocks for power and ground. Mazda build has (4) 4AWG grounds and (2) 1/0 AWG grounds, (6 fairly big grounds) for (2) Focal FPS2300’s and a single [I]DS18 EXL[/I]-[I]P2500X1D, the extra three are for (2) T-spec 3 farad caps, 1 each of the Focal amps, a stinger 5 farad hybrid cap for the DS18).[/I] Granted, the T-spec caps are most likely not needed but they do look cool and they were $50 less than the Focal High-Cap units! I know everyone has an opinion on this type of grounding configuration but I’ve never had any ground (or ground loop or power starvation from lack of ground) issue since I started doing it this way. I believe in the “overbuilt is better” philosophy! Also, twisted pair RCA’s and speaker wire ensure no need to foil wrap anything (have not seen that in a long time). Additionally, none of your speaker wires should run paralalle to your power/ground wires but if they must intersect, only at 90 degree angles. I've seen this post before, the box and subs look to be correct. I know it's a pain and can be time consuming and costly, but sometimes you just gotta take a different angle, pull ALL your wiring connections and try something else. My 2 cents... [/QUOTE]
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Car audio questions from bad sound from subwoofers... Bass is different, Electromagnetic Interfence?
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