Cap quality

well 1 farad is good for 1000 watts so 35 farads is rediculous

and if your not hooking up an iso you just run ur power line from pos on ur front bat to pos on the second bat in the trunk.

 
so if im understanding right, this would elimnate my altenator altogether for running my system? it would all run off of this battery? therefore no upgrade //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif:)//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif:)//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif:)

 
no, a system cant run off just the battery for a long time. if you set up a second battery with a iso it can run while the cars off for a while but not forever. if you just set up the second battery like i said it is still getting power from the alt.

 
well 1 farad is good for 1000 watts so 35 farads is rediculous
and if your not hooking up an iso you just run ur power line from pos on ur front bat to pos on the second bat in the trunk.
1F good for 1kW? Really? I posted the math on here awhile ago showing why 1F for pretty much any sized real amp is totally worthless. Reserve capacity on the order of fractions of an amp second per farad for any cap. Compare that to a good battery with reserve measured in the amp hour range and paying the same amount for a cap as a battery doesn't make sense in any context.

 
so if im understanding right, this would elimnate my altenator altogether for running my system? it would all run off of this battery? therefore no upgrade //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif:)//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif:)//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif:)
Your car's battery (as well as a "stiffening" capacitor or a batcap or a Kinetik battery etc etc etc etc) is merely an energy storage device.

That energy has to come from somewhere....oh, yeah! The alternator is where that current originates.

If you place too high of a current demand on a charging system that simply isn't up to the task of providing it the potential (inevitable, really) results are a toasted alternator and/or a fried battery.

We frequently see suggestions of upgrading the "Big 3" and while this is a sound idea and will do much more for an overly taxed charging system than any capacitor ever will it is still not a magical cure all that will solve all your problems that come along with dropping major current demands on a stock-capacity charging system. It doesn't create energy (upgrading your Big 3) but rather gives the current that is already available a more efficient path on which to flow.

DO upgrade the Big 3 as it is a sound investment for audio enthusiasts.

But if you're going to drop a major current draw on the vehicle in question your options are:

(A) Bite the bullet and get an HO alternator

or

(B) Never turn the volume up very high //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
if thats geared towards me im aware of this. i got 0g in last night for the big 3... i just cant find any alts for my car so im SOL there.

 
Your car's battery (as well as a "stiffening" capacitor or a batcap or a Kinetik battery etc etc etc etc) is merely an energy storage device.That energy has to come from somewhere....oh, yeah! The alternator is where that current originates.

If you place too high of a current demand on a charging system that simply isn't up to the task of providing it the potential (inevitable, really) results are a toasted alternator and/or a fried battery.

We frequently see suggestions of upgrading the "Big 3" and while this is a sound idea and will do much more for an overly taxed charging system than any capacitor ever will it is still not a magical cure all that will solve all your problems that come along with dropping major current demands on a stock-capacity charging system. It doesn't create energy (upgrading your Big 3) but rather gives the current that is already available a more efficient path on which to flow.

DO upgrade the Big 3 as it is a sound investment for audio enthusiasts.

But if you're going to drop a major current draw on the vehicle in question your options are:

(A) Bite the bullet and get an HO alternator

or

(B) Never turn the volume up very high //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
if you are listening to music the current demand is not constant unless we are talking about test tones. the B statement you posted should read more like" you cant turn it up very loud all the time....."

 
i actually was searching for the website on google. i search iraggi high output alternators and i went back like 8 pages in google and couldnt find there website.

 
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