Can't tell if my subs are blown, need some help

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Checking any speaker or sub properly is by itself completely, not wired up/powered up but by itself with a DMM at the coils

 

[d_tek]

I would still pull both subs and check the wiring connections( ON THE SUB, not the wires from the amplifier). The reason the Non -working sub is moving within the enclosure( acting as a radiator) is due to chamber pressure while the other is doing work.

I just checked the wiring today when seeing the impedance of the voice coils. And the sub that is not working now was working yesterday (to some degree at least) as my enclosure is sealed in the middle thus creating two separate chambers

 

[d_tek]

Sounds like Ohm loads are reading fine within limitations of 4 ohms each..Wired properly, you should be at a 2 ohm final load. You are going to have to learn how to clean up your music before you play it on your system as well. Bad Music Mixing and not knowing your limitations of your EQ settings can lead to Severe Distortion as well as Maxed tones /beyond your speakers and sub woofer limitations that will eventually damage them/ Hence... Start buying more gear/ digging deeper in your pockets... Just my 2 cents here

I've been using the two EQs for almost two years before any issues arose and there was minimal distortion. I'm prone to think that spotify must've changed its dB levels on its EQ during the update (I hadn't updated the app in years). Then again, I use the EQ with headphones and I didn't notice any difference in loudness after the update. I'm thinking my best course is to get some new subs, but I'd hate for the amp to have been the problem and then I'm left with two sitting ducks

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Kenwood KAC-6104D

Mono car amplifier 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

Honestly.. it wouldnt hurt to spend a little more funds on a larger amplifier, but if its working and it meets your criteria/needs, no need in that.
Are these your subs here?

Two 12" Crunch GTR12D4 Subwoofers 700MAXX 350RMS

Two 12 Crunch GTR12D4 Subwoofers 700maxx 350RMS in Consumer Electronics, Vehicle Electronics & GPS, Car Audio

www.popscreen.com

,
and if so.. are they wired correctly at a 4 ohm load as this diagram here? Or do you have them wired at the 1 ohm load in the diagram of which would be incorrect due to the amplifiers stability ohm load?

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams for Two 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil Speakers

www.the12volt.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

If both subs you have are Dual 4 ohm subs then you should wire them to a final load of 4 ohms for both coils of each sub, for that amplifier.
Another option would be wire 1 coil of each sub being as though they are a 4 ohm Single Voice coil sub with a final load of 2 ohms on that amplifier and they should only receive 1/2 of the RMS value each/ 350 rms devided by 2= 175 RMS each x 2 = 350 RMS for both subs at the 2 ohm final load of which the amplifier is capable of. Wired as followed as a Pair of SVC 4 ohm subs

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams for Two 4 Ohm Single Voice Coil Speakers

www.the12volt.com

If you want both subs and both coils to be at a final 1 ohm load, then you will need to get a 1 ohm stable amplifier

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

How are your subs wired to that Kenwood amplifier??

 

[d_tek]

How are your subs wired to that Kenwood amplifier??

I have them wired as their own circuit themselves (ex- + and - of channel 1 to one sub, + and - of channel 2 to the other sub). They're single voice coil subs. I didn't wire them myself since I bought the subs, amp, and enclosure all from my brother's friend and I didn't know **** about car audio at the time other than that I wanted some subs.
Believe me, I'd like to upgrade everything which I was going to do about three years ago but I got scammed out of $900 lol . Another thing stopping me is that with my stock alternator I don't know how much more power it can handle without both of my amps constantly kicking into protect mode.
I was planning on getting some DC audio level 1 12s (i was going to get dual 4ohm subs, but they also offer dual 2ohms as well and it seems you know more about wiring for impedance than I do, so which do you recommend given my current amp?)
Also, if you were to say whether the problem is the amp or subs, are you thinking it is the subs at this point? (if it had to be one or the other). By the way, I wanted to thank you for all the help you given me thus far

 

[Firewalker]

.

 

[d_tek]

900 dollars for a set of CRUNCH subwoofers with that amplifier??? OMFG Yeah you got ripped off!

if you had read the entire thread you'd know that I've had these for about four years, whereas I got scammed about three years ago. I paid $160 for the subs, amp, and enclosure, not a bad deal at all if you ask me

 

[Firewalker]

There is nothing in the entire thread about paying 160 dollars. Regardless that is still a rip off for crunch. And yeah I misread on paying 900 dollars for that. It can happen very easily. Either way I think you overpaid since it was a probably a store bought box.

If you can afford to then I would do something else, build your own ported box and DC Audio makes nice subwoofers and I would upgrade to a mono-block amplifier that is 1ohm so you can buy a set of D4 and run them at 1ohm.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

That is an option OP, if you have the money. Just start with a new system. If you could afford to keep your old stuff when you buy new, you could use some of the new stuff to figure what old stuff is messed up.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

That is an option OP, if you have the money. Just start with a new system. If you could afford to keep your old stuff when you buy new, you could use some of the new stuff to figure what old stuff is messed up.

And then sell what works.

 

[d_tek]

There is nothing in the entire thread about paying 160 dollars. Regardless that is still a rip off for crunch. And yeah I misread on paying 900 dollars for that. It can happen very easily. Either way I think you overpaid since it was a probably a store bought box.

If you can afford to then I would do something else, build your own ported box and DC Audio makes nice subwoofers and I would upgrade to a mono-block amplifier that is 1ohm so you can buy a set of D4 and run them at 1ohm.

No I hadn't mentioned 160 at all prior to that. And you're all good man, no worries. That's what I've been thinking of doing, getting the DCs and then building my own box for it. Do you guys have any recommendations on amps and box blueprints (including tuned Hz, as I've only heard prefab ported boxes before so I really have no idea what the "best" frequencies to tune a box to are)? Thanks guys

 

[d_tek]

And then sell what works.

I'll probably just keep what I have currently as memorabilia/usable parts for future builds. I can't imagine I would get enough money from someone to account for the sentimental value lol, I'll see what I can do once I get everything for my new subs figured out though

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

No I hadn't mentioned 160 at all prior to that. And you're all good man, no worries. That's what I've been thinking of doing, getting the DCs and then building my own box for it. Do you guys have any recommendations on amps and box blueprints (including tuned Hz, as I've only heard prefab ported boxes before so I really have no idea what the "best" frequencies to tune a box to are)? Thanks guys

did you say you needed box blueprints?

 

[d_tek]

did you say you needed box blueprints?

hahaha I sure did, what've you got brother?

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

I'd start with listening to less shitty music and see if that helps.

If you push on the cones do you feel any friction or hear any crunching?

I think they sound blown, but tough to tell from a video.

And you talk **** about my post. You just painted yourself into a corner as far as I'm concerned. Thanks. Makes it very easy for me now

 

[jt4x4]

And you talk **** about my post. You just painted yourself into a corner as far as I'm concerned. Thanks. Makes it very easy for me now

I don't see the parallel between that post and some of yours. You seldom include anything productive.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

I don't see the parallel between that post and some of yours. You seldom include anything productive.

Everything I say is productive. Every single word.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I have them wired as their own circuit themselves (ex- + and - of channel 1 to one sub, + and - of channel 2 to the other sub). They're single voice coil subs. I didn't wire them myself since I bought the subs, amp, and enclosure all from my brother's friend and I didn't know **** about car audio at the time other than that I wanted some subs.
Believe me, I'd like to upgrade everything which I was going to do about three years ago but I got scammed out of $900 lol . Another thing stopping me is that with my stock alternator I don't know how much more power it can handle without both of my amps constantly kicking into protect mode.
I was planning on getting some DC audio level 1 12s (i was going to get dual 4ohm subs, but they also offer dual 2ohms as well and it seems you know more about wiring for impedance than I do, so which do you recommend given my current amp?)
Also, if you were to say whether the problem is the amp or subs, are you thinking it is the subs at this point? (if it had to be one or the other). By the way, I wanted to thank you for all the help you given me thus far

Well, by the description as stated,.. sounds to me like you have the subs wired at a final 2 ohm load of which the amplifier is stable at . Just doesnt seem as though you have enough power for the subs to actually do the work they are intended at theyre potential, let alone the proper box built for them .

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams for Two 4 Ohm Single Voice Coil Speakers

www.the12volt.com

I myself would look at getting the Big 3 done first, and look at utilizing what you have till you get some funds saved to better support what you have now. Just my suggetions as followed::
#1- Get the Big 3 done in 0ga OFC(look at a future AGM battery,, the largest that you can fit under the hood the better)
#2- Look at a decent Sub amp replacement with more power at the 2 ohm stable area of 500-1000 watts RMS or better and up to 2000 or 3000 watts RMS at 1 ohms for future Sub ugrades.
#3- Id Use the subs you have now, temp. and run those on the new sub amplifier as they are for now and ,either decide to spend some funds on building a decent ported enclosure for those and see if they will work for you , or go all out and just spend the funds on the new enclosure and new 600-1500 RMS subs.
#4- Look at adding another AGM battery in the future for supply needs,and possibly an HO Alternator if needed.
Thats me.. Run what I have, and use what I have till I get the funds for the upgrades when I could.
There is no shame running at a 2 ohm stable load on sub duty with decent power, and subs and a well designed tuned enclosure, that can hit some really nice clean lows. I did in my CRV on a pair of heavy tens in a 4.0Cu Ft enclosure tuned at 32 HTZ on approx 1700 rms that I did all I could to keep the roof from rippling a crease in it.
My apologies upon the late reply. Been a little busy