can my new system be run on stock electrical?

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Pono76

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hi guys gonna be doing a new system and just wanted to know if my cars stock eletrical could handle all this system...

so im going to be running 2 pairs of 4ohm bullet tweeters rated 250w max power each so im guessing 125rms each?

also 3 pairs of 4ohm 8" mids 300w max power 150w rms

1 pair of kenwood 6x9s 125w rms ea

running off a taramps 2000x4 @ 2ohms

and running a sundown sa12 off a soundqubed q1-1200.2

also a alpine g320 dsp

in a 2014 nissan altima 2.5s

so bottom line would i need to run a 2nd battery to my sub? or upgrade battery under the hood? or a HO alt?

i would appreciate it if you guys could give me your opinions thank you!

 
Prob gonna hate me for it but that's a poorly designed system. Why do you feel the need to run 3 8" mids for a single 12" sub??

Looks like your just cramming everything you can/have and hope for the best. Where's @Jeffdachef lol
 
I would upgrade to an HO alt and big3 upgrade or upgrade the main battery, add a second and big 3 upgrade.
So it doesn’t matter what route I take it would be fine? I know a HO alt is best but if so what kinda battery should I run? I did big 3 upgrade already

 
[quote name='Boomin_tahoe']Prob gonna hate me for it but that's a poorly designed system. Why do you feel the need to run 3 8" mids for a single 12" sub??

Looks like your just cramming everything you can/have and hope for the best. Where's @Jeffdachef lol[/QUOTE]
Eh I guess it’s just a local thing to run more loud vocals from where I’m at lol.. it was either that or running 5 6x9s per door for mid and highs. But just wanted to know what I should do to power thr system that’s all..
 
Eh I guess it’s just a local thing to run more loud vocals from where I’m at lol.. it was either that or running 5 6x9s per door for mid and highs. But just wanted to know what I should do to power thr system that’s all..
So your a follower...do what those other people say. I can tell ya right now before you install any of that it's gonna sound like ****. Don't even bother installing 1/2 of that. Keep it simple. Get yourself a nice comp set for up front. Or 2 sets, your choice. Don't even bother with any rear speakers....as your sound comes from up front. You def don't need a DSP unless your competing for SQ.

Sub and sub amp, plus a nice HU....and a 4 ch amp to power those 6.5" comps would be better than all that involved.

As for your electrical question, upgrade what you haven't: big 3 better battery and in near future a HO alt, if you run more watts. But I hope you follow my advice.

 
hi guys gonna be doing a new system and just wanted to know if my cars stock eletrical could handle all this system...so im going to be running 2 pairs of 4ohm bullet tweeters rated 250w max power each so im guessing 125rms each?

also 3 pairs of 4ohm 8" mids 300w max power 150w rms

1 pair of kenwood 6x9s 125w rms ea

running off a taramps 2000x4 @ 2ohms

and running a sundown sa12 off a soundqubed q1-1200.2

also a alpine g320 dsp

in a 2014 nissan altima 2.5s

so bottom line would i need to run a 2nd battery to my sub? or upgrade battery under the hood? or a HO alt?

i would appreciate it if you guys could give me your opinions thank you!
You mentioned everything except the most important thing which is the head unit. Without an ACTIVE NETWORK capable head unit, all you get will just be a loud and horrible ear bleeding sounding setup that basically sounds like sh*t because super tweeters need to be crossed over at 8khz to 12.5khz depending on the car its in order to sound good, in my buddy's altima it was 10khz at -18db slope. EQ alone with do anything, being able to adjust crossover points and slopes is the key to make your setup not sound like complete garbage. That alpine DSP is not a real DSP, its just a cheapo EQ. I'd sell that immediately for a proper head unit which will absolutely sh*t on that alpine EQ in terms of sound adjustments and EQ. Literally ancient outdated dinosaur technology that doesn't help anything at all compared to technology nowadays.

Dont even bother with any 6x9 in the back, waste of time and money Sell that for battery money. I'd run a 2nd group 31 battery in the back and you should be golden since you already have the big 3 done.

You might want one more pair of mid just to get the ohm load right since 3 pairs of 4 ohm mids are wired either 16 ohms series or 1.33 ohms parallel and the taramps cannot handle that load and 16 ohms is not anywhere enough power. so for 4 mids on the left side, you'll need to wire two pairs in series and then wire both of them parallel to get a 4 ohm load.

Can i ask the name brand of the mids and super tweeters you are running?

You might be able to go all out crazy by bridging that taramps 4 channel and get 1000x2 at 4 ohms bridged if you get beefier mids and really maximizing that amp's potential. then add a seperate two channel for the tweeters since they definitely dont need anywhere close to the amount of power that taramps puts out. Literally your ears will give out and literally bleed at 50 watts per super tweeter already so 300+ is definitely not needed. If you can jump up to some 250 rms mids like the crescendo UN 8s or 10s then bridged to that taramps 2000.4, sh*t will be nuts. I would not doubt if you have one of the the loudest mids and highs setup in your island

You can do two mids up front and two mids in the rear doors as well if you dont have space in one door for four 8s per door, you'll have one pair of super tweeters in front and one in the back door as well. You might even be able to jump up to two 10 inch mids per door if loud is your goal and you have fiberglassing skills.

Just throwing out some ideas making you spend more money lmao.

 
another idea would just be to run a single 8 inch 1500 rms midbass/midrange on each door bridged on that taramps. Keeps thing simple.

@shizzzon is the plug for those ridiculous mids.

Imagine you keep up with crazy setups that have 4 to 8 mids per door with only a single 8. Would be pretty sweet bragging rights aint it?
 
You mentioned everything except the most important thing which is the head unit. Without an ACTIVE NETWORK capable head unit, all you get will just be a loud and horrible ear bleeding sounding setup that basically sounds like sh*t because super tweeters need to be crossed over at 8khz to 12.5khz depending on the car its in order to sound good, in my buddy's altima it was 10khz at -18db slope. EQ alone with do anything, being able to adjust crossover points and slopes is the key to make your setup not sound like complete garbage. That alpine DSP is not a real DSP, its just a cheapo EQ. I'd sell that immediately for a proper head unit which will absolutely sh*t on that alpine EQ in terms of sound adjustments and EQ. Literally ancient outdated dinosaur technology that doesn't help anything at all compared to technology nowadays.
Dont even bother with any 6x9 in the back, waste of time and money Sell that for battery money. I'd run a 2nd group 31 battery in the back and you should be golden since you already have the big 3 done.

You might want one more pair of mid just to get the ohm load right since 3 pairs of 4 ohm mids are wired either 16 ohms series or 1.33 ohms parallel and the taramps cannot handle that load and 16 ohms is not anywhere enough power. so for 4 mids on the left side, you'll need to wire two pairs in series and then wire both of them parallel to get a 4 ohm load.

Can i ask the name brand of the mids and super tweeters you are running?

You might be able to go all out crazy by bridging that taramps 4 channel and get 1000x2 at 4 ohms bridged if you get beefier mids and really maximizing that amp's potential. then add a seperate two channel for the tweeters since they definitely dont need anywhere close to the amount of power that taramps puts out. Literally your ears will give out and literally bleed at 50 watts per super tweeter already so 300+ is definitely not needed. If you can jump up to some 250 rms mids like the crescendo UN 8s or 10s then bridged to that taramps 2000.4, sh*t will be nuts. I would not doubt if you have one of the the loudest mids and highs setup in your island

You can do two mids up front and two mids in the rear doors as well if you dont have space in one door for four 8s per door, you'll have one pair of super tweeters in front and one in the back door as well. You might even be able to jump up to two 10 inch mids per door if loud is your goal and you have fiberglassing skills.

Just throwing out some ideas making you spend more money lmao.
Thank you for your help! The head unit I have currently is a Pionert AVH-X1800s and for a 2nd battery what type would you prefer?

 
Thank you for your help! The head unit I have currently is a Pionert AVH-X1800s and for a 2nd battery what type would you prefer?
AGM(deka, C&D, odyssey, xs power, northstar, kinetik duracell/duralast platinums, etc.) or if you have money, lithium ion(jy power, limitless)

That head unit has network mode, learn to use it fully because its the core function of your tuning. the EQ on the head unit is superior to the alpine as well. If you dont know how to tune, just ask us on here when you have your gear all installed.

 
LiFePO4^^ not Lithium Ion! Ion is dangerous if abused.

Actually.. even the LiFePO4 brands that are being manufactured now aren't long lasting if you live in a state where it gets COLD..

There are many things brands are not telling people and people will see soon enough that their lithium investment will not have the cycle life they thought..

While we will not actually sell lithium for profit, we are working on a case that does not degrade the life nor capacity of cells (specific cells better than listed) in cold weather.

Customer purchases the cells through us and our supplier will ship them to you at almost half the cost of the current market value.

When the case testing is complete, it will be another step forward in high power.

 
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Pono76

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