Can anyone recommend a 2000w @ 1 ohm amp please?

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

That's about right.

About that. My Kenwood runs 0 to 35 and each click is about 1.4dB. 3 db gain from doubling of power assuming zero compression.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Soundstream TA1.2000D Tarantula 2000W Class-D Monoblock Amplifier

For God's sake, op, don't buy garbage like sound stream. Buy quality once and be done.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

For God's sake, op, don't buy garbage like sound stream. Buy quality once and be done.

I think this is the only thing we have ever agreed on.

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

If you are planning on getting a new car I would just wait. Basically if you're going to run 2k rms you're gonna need a new alt and a new power wire and a new amp so why not wait to see what's up with a vehicle. I'd say running 500 rms if you are lucky to each speaker is the issue. You are looking at almost $1k US dollars to upgrade if your lucky and that's doing it all yourself.

Depends on alt size.. I have ran many, many 2k+ amps with nothing more then a 135a stock alt and 2 9a31's with zero issues that's not based on reading or crap that's based on doing it for years as well as others.... I also use CCA wire ok its not rated as high as OFC but its 1/3 the price and for 2k 1/0 CCA wire is just fine. I am sure the tube has many videos showing this to be true but if you want I will remove one of my skars and toss in wife's car using stock 120a alt and 1/0 Knu CCA wire and of course 2 decent batts and I will video it for you to prove what I say and still keep the voltage up to a very safe lvl... Not talking burping just daily use...

Wife has a M1c on 2 sa8v2's "1ohm load" with a single Stinger SPV44 "used as it fit under hood"..

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

That's about right. About that. My Kenwood runs 0 to 35 and each click is about 1.4dB. 3 db gain from doubling of power assuming zero compression.

Man that *****, i dont think i can justify all that money for such small gain.

If i just wanted more spl, a couple of Sundown 12's on the same set up could help me achieve that right? Or just a bigger box

im not sure how highly rated the Type R's are over in US

For God's sake, op, don't buy garbage like sound stream. Buy quality once and be done.

this is why i post on here, i wouldnt have known theyre garbage since we dont have soundstream over here

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

Man that *****, i dont think i can justify all that money for such small gain.If i just wanted more spl, a couple of Sundown 12's on the same set up could help me achieve that right? Or just a bigger box

im not sure how highly rated the Type R's are over in US

this is why i post on here, i wouldnt have known theyre garbage since we dont have soundstream over here

R's are decent and are not bad subs if can be had for a low low price... I have never ran a set of sa-12's so I cant say but I have run quad sa8v2's and they were pretty nice.. Assuming prices are similar I would take a pair of SA's over R's in almost every install. SS are junk now as stated above the rubi2500 is decent at best but for the price who can complain.. In the correct box an a few other variables a single sa-12 can take 1k daily with ease. So being price is an issue grab a single SA an keep all else same. Sell off the R's to recoup some cash and beat away...

Just one of many online box designs for single sa-12 - May wanna go lil smaller being you are using above rated power but being only 1k I see no need for it..

Fb = 33.062 Hz

Vb = 1.992 ft^3

Subwoofer Mounting = Front Mounted

External Height = 16 in

External Width = 29.75 in

External Depth = 14 in

Port Width = 2 1/4 in

Cut List:

* All Dimensions in Inches.

* Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts.

External Enclosure Parts:

Front = 26 3/4 x 14 1/2

Back = 29 3/4 x 14 1/2

Left & Right Sides:

Side 1 = 12 1/2 x 14 1/2

Side 2 = 13 1/4 x 14 1/2

Top & Bottom = 29 3/4 x 14

L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

Front to Back = 10 1/4 x 14 1/2

Extension = 20 1/2 x 14 1/2

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

R's are decent and are not bad subs if can be had for a low low price... I have never ran a set of sa-12's so I cant say but I have run quad sa8v2's and they were pretty nice.. Assuming prices are similar I would take a pair of SA's over R's in almost every install. SS are junk now as stated above the rubi2500 is decent at best but for the price who can complain.. In the correct box an a few other variables a single sa-12 can take 1k daily with ease. So being price is an issue grab a single SA an keep all else same. Sell off the R's to recoup some cash and beat away...

Thanks for that, although wouldnt my two R's already be louder than a single SA even at 1k? considering it will also be a smaller box

The place that i can get SA's from is also down for maintenance, so i cant get a price, although i think they might have been around $300-$400 each (very few dealers in UK)

I received a reply from SoundQubed saying that they will have the 2200 rms amp for sale on ebay when its back in stock, however after what hispls said i dont think im gonna go down that road anymore, just too much money for not so great gain.

I was just thinking of building a box that will not fit in my car for every day use, but will fit in with the back seats down, so i can build at least a 5 cubes box and compare it so see if my box is holding me back.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

-Round the inside corners of your box, especially the back corners with sanded 45s to a smooth curve.

-Coat the inside of your enclosure with fiberglass resin.

-Brace the box with threaded rods.

-Box location and orientation is important Try in different orientations like rear fire, Forward fire walling off from the trunk or top fire, its different for every car.

-Experiment with interchangeable Flared aeroports, they offer a lot more efficiency then a slot port. You have have more Usuable cubic feet with your current dimensions. It is also easily adjustable with tuning to get the loudness/sound you want.

-Heavily deaden your vehicle, this will lower your peak frequency and less flex will have less energy wasted therefore more sound.

-Bigger box will yield more efficiency, play lower, peak lower but I would model your sub out in Winisd before throwing them in a 5 cubic foot box, sometimes you will barely gain anything from different box size, other times you might gain alot. Dont guess just model it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That's about right. About that. My Kenwood runs 0 to 35 and each click is about 1.4dB. 3 db gain from doubling of power assuming zero compression.

I wish my pioneer's gain was about that stable. It does not really jump until the last 10 clicks. 0-62

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

-Round the inside corners of your box, especially the back corners with sanded 45s to a smooth curve. -Coat the inside of your enclosure with fiberglass resin.

-Brace the box with threaded rods.

Definitely going to do all of these once ive got a box im 100% happy with

-Box location and orientation is important Try in different orientations like rear fire, Forward fire walling off from the trunk or top fire, its different for every car.

I honestly didnt really notice a difference but i have them facing up as it allows me to use up more inches of the trunk

-Experiment with interchangeable Flared aeroports, they offer a lot more efficiency then a slot port. You have have more Usuable cubic feet with your current dimensions. It is also easily adjustable with tuning to get the loudness/sound you want.

Would like to try this, however when i looked previously i couldnt find any decent quality or big enough aero's, i had to make my own out of a bit of 6" pvc.

-Heavily deaden your vehicle, this will lower your peak frequency and less flex will have less energy wasted therefore more sound.

-Bigger box will yield more efficiency, play lower, peak lower but I would model your sub out in Winisd before throwing them in a 5 cubic foot box, sometimes you will barely gain anything from different box size, other times you might gain alot. Dont guess just model it.

Not too sure what you mean modeling it in Winisd, are you saying that program will tell me how two R's will perform in a certain box?

Thanks man

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Not too sure what you mean modeling it in Winisd, are you saying that program will tell me how two R's will perform in a certain box?
Thanks man

download link >>>> LinearTeam

Look up tutorials on youtube and experiment playing with the features yourself and get familiarized with it. Its a wonderful program, you can see spl output of the box and how the box will sound before hand and compare boxes side by side. Note these specs are before cabin gain, that will change a lot.

as for box orientation, you have to spend time and do a more in depth test to see the differences in each position, it can make a big difference depending on what car you drive.

Definitely flare your aeros with a heat gun and metal bowl, you'll gain a little bit but every gain will add up in time.

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

download link >>>> LinearTeam
Look up tutorials on youtube and experiment playing with the features yourself and get familiarized with it. Its a wonderful program, you can see spl output of the box and how the box will sound before hand and compare boxes side by side. Note these specs are before cabin gain, that will change a lot.

as for box orientation, you have to spend time and do a more in depth test to see the differences in each position, it can make a big difference depending on what car you drive.

Definitely flare your aeros with a heat gun and metal bowl, you'll gain a little bit but every gain will add up in time.

Wil check that out, thanks

Yeah i did my aero with a heat gun and metal bowl, but it seems that once its in the box thats it. the coupler i used to connect the two peices is really a one use thing, the seam on the inside will split if i keep removing and replacing + its a right bastard to get on and off.

I just went out and drove around for 10 mins with a few different songs on full, im convinced that my R's even on 500 each should be much louder. I was thinking of making a video to show you guys but i know bass doesnt pick up too well on camera.

I found a welding supplies store on ebay with 50mm cable for a reasonable price, with terminals also. i believe thats a few mm smaller than real 1/0 gauge wire, so i might try the big three with that.

I set my gains using a DMM before and i just feel that i could be getting a lot more out of my amp, but the meter was set to the correct voltage playing a -3db 40hz tone.

So frustrating after all this money and it seems i have very little performance to show for it, the only thing ive been 100% satisfied with is the deck

Edit: i also went 2 clicks higher than my max (27-35) for just a few seconds and didnt notice any distortion, not sure if that means anything

 

[MellowHype 10+ year member]

Is it worth me trying to get my hands on an amp clamp? will that give me a more accurate reading in combination with a DMM reading voltage at the mono's speaker terminals

 

[ace_800 5,000+ posts]

B2 Audio Zero.5

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

I wish my pioneer's gain was about that stable. It does not really jump until the last 10 clicks. 0-62

Have you tested with an SPL meter?

Also, have we seen pictures of OP's box and install?