Can a JL 300/4 backup a 1000/1, or do the highs need more?

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

I am about to take the plunge back into car audio. Back when I was in the game the idea was to keep it under 250 watts, I had a 250HCCA on the lows and a punch 150 on the highs... but who cares. Now what I'm looking for is good balanced sound that will do sq dor the first 50% of my volume knob; then get stupid only occasionally.

The car is a 2004 Nissan Altima SE.

So here is what I'm thinking.

** = open to suggestion

Head unit Kenwood 7xxx series double din Nav/USB; sub out lp 80Hz, hp 50Hz

Amps

JL300/4 hp @ 50Hz all four channels **

JL1000/1 lp@ 80Hz subsonic hp 26Hz

Speakers

Front

JL Audio C5-650 **

Rear

JL Audio VR690-CXI **

Sub

Boston Acoustics SPG555PS 11x14 woofer in BA 2.1 cu/ft ported encloser.

Don't try to talk me out of this one, for some reason the idea of this sub

with the JL 1000/1 stuck to the back is driving this whole purchase in my mind.

Maybe:

Optional sub remote control for JL 1000/1 **

Some kind of preamp level control knob for the sub out of the kenwood **

(I'm going to hate the touch screen subwoofer control)

--------------------------------------------------------------

Before I drop major coin, I thought I'd ask the main point of this post.

Is 4 x 75W RMS enough to backup 1000W worth of ported enclosure bass?

I think it is, as many high end components only handle 75W RMS.

As always, Thank you.

Click to read more...

 

[ViolentAudio]

yes it will sound good.....why hipass @ 50hz?

 

[adas Pro Seller]

HP at 50hz is going to RAPE your mids. 75w is enough for 1000w, but it all depends on the speakers. Not to familiar with C5's as their pretty new, but most of JL's higher end comps are farily **** clear and loud. Too bad they cost twice as much as an equivalent component set:crap:

 

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

I do not want to send the mids and highs frequencies over 50 Hz because that will make them sound better IMO (in my experience).

I'm open to suggestion on the mids & highs, when you say that 50Hz HP will RAPE the mids, that obviosly a bad thing right? You think I should send the 30-20K or what?

 

[Scoobydoo 5,000+ posts]

try 100hz if your subs crossover is 80hz

 

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

What was I thinking! Of course you meant raping the mids by sending too much low freqs. Okay thanks for the advice, I'm assuming the 6x9's should HP @ 80Hz too.

 

[adas Pro Seller]

Yes, exactly, high passing them at 50hz, I ment is going to rape those comps with over excursion. 100hz HP is usually a good start.

 

[btdickey99 5,000+ posts]

nice equipment btw... I would do HP @ 80...Just my personal preference, but you may be different

 

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

Thanks everyone! Is there any advice on the 1000/1 control knob or perhaps a pre amp knob for the sub out of the kenwood. Does anyone use a touch screen subwoofer control from a Nav head unit and actually like it?

 

[wvufootball 10+ year member]

Just a suggestion, but I would look elsewhere for speakers then JL. Since you are buying Boston acoustics, why not demo some pro60s or something?

 

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

I really want silk tweeters over aluminium. The way the Altima seperate components in front are laid out, the tweeter is on the widow frame poited at ear level and a little far (Maybe 2ft) from the 6.5 mid in the door. I think the silk tweeters will be a little richer and less harsh, I could be wrong. I will consider any brand or good arguments for aluminium.

 

[chucku 10+ year member]

I have heard the jl and have the bostons. Silk tweeter doesnt always mean smoother sound. The bostons are so much nicer to listen to at loud volumes. I would choose jl for the subs and bostons for the highs. Ultimately its your decision, listen to as many speakes/systems you can and buy what you like and can afford. Good luck!

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

I would consider the 450/4 instead of the 300/4. Run the more powerful channels to the fronts and the others to the rears. It will balance the sound out better and keep the rears more as fill. Headroom is a nice thing, too especially when you've got a lot of power going to a ported sub. With smart crossover settings and proper gain adjustment, you can easily and safely run 2x rated power to a set of components. RMS power is continuous thermal power handling, the mid/high portion of music is not nearly continuous enough to worry about burning coils on your mids. What you do have to worry about is sending a clipped signal to the tweets and exceeding the excursion limits of the mids. Keep the amp from clipping and the lows from getting to the mids and the sound will get painfuly loud before a good set of speakers is in any real peril.

 

[jblayz1 10+ year member]

do some more research before you spend some coins. my advice, as far as what you listed, ditch the rear speakers idea spend the money on some nice comps up front. run the 300/4 bridged or use a 300/2. you can get a better sub for the 1000/1 for what you will spend on the BA sub. just my $.02

 

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

The ba sub is $599 shipped from crutchfield (last time it went on sale). It is already enclosed, no work from me and no one to pay. I'm sure I could beat it doing work myself, but I'm not a box builder.

sonicelectronix.com has some decent looking boxes, but weight and size are additional concerns. The BA is 72 lbs and fits perfect, slant and all. Other drivers I would certainly consider better like a 12w6 or 12w7 would likely end up with more weight and fit issues. I've put some thought into it, I know I could do better; but this seems to be a good trade off for me.

I could go with two 300/2's, or a 300/2 and something in a cheaper amp for the back fill. I actually have the old punch150, but that thing is looking tired!