Buck Box Designs - Refreshed Thread

I like that box. I've been working on improving my designs, all the time, of course.

In most situations, I am pro-slot port. There's a way to lay out slot ports to force air compression at different stages within the enclosure, sort of like a tapered and folded t-line (inverse expanding width horn). Not every box can be designed like this; it is situation dependent, but I try to flow like this whenever I can. I'm not sure if there's any specific term for this type of sound-design within a ported sub box, but I like to think of it as pressure-staging. The port tunes the box due to the restriction/resistance/impedance that it introduces into the cycling pressures moving in and out of the box. The air inside of the main subwoofer chamber gets squeezed down (resistance/impedance) and all stuffed inside of the port opening(s) at relatively very high pressure, considering the rest of the pressures in the system. I guess it's technically a type of acoustical coupling inside of the enclosure itself that I'm explaining, where I'm trying to couple the internal port opening to the airspace inside of the box, using the design of the ported chamber to step-increase air density of the rear air-wave as it makes its way from the back of the sub to the internal port opening. I feel like I'm on the verge of giving away some secret sauce, if you're following.

I'm not sure if people understand some of the finer details of how I design. Idk if other people do this; I just developed this knowledge over time from building, installing and hearing many systems, as well as studying a ton of raw sound physics, mainly quarter wave physics. I also study electricity and things like how air pressure works with aircrafts and flight, for example, and that really helps understand air impedance and how just the shape of the air can change the way the enclosure works, to whatever degree. I don't know exactly how much difference intentionally designing like I'm talking about makes. I'm not even sure that many people would follow along if I tested this theory out with an actual build, looking for secondary resonances within sub boxes that could be intentionally designed in.

I know people in the audio industry; I'll just say it like that. I've had industry audio friends keep info from me for competition reasons, then eventually show me what they're doing. Series SPL competitors use 1/4 wave math to create secondary resonances to help boost their scores, just with ported boxes. And that's all I want to explain on that, but what I'm doing is the same concept, just with musical boxes. I literally try to do any small thing I can to make the box sound better. I'll go back and forth sizing different 45's and moving bracing around to try to create specific effects within the enclosure that are aimed at making the enclosure sound better just across the board (SPL over a bandwidth, if you will).

I've got hybrid/maybe rarely or never seen/used style designs I'm trying to test out, to anyone who reads this. Lmk if you're bored and have a ton of space to play with, whether if it's in a vehicle or in a house or boat or plane or semi-truck or UFO, idc. I'm trying to do some stuff like parallel 6th order t-lines and horns, if that makes sense. I'm not sure if that's the correct technical name, but just try to visualize that in your mind. I'm not just recklessly testing. I'm trying to figure out what style enclosures can be used in certain situations to create a huge advantage over more simple enclosures, all in the name of loud, musical bass. There's all sorts of subwoofer enclosures that can be used that people have no idea are even possible, and I think there could be many advantages to some complex enclosures, especially in the SPL world and in home audio. Home audio is something I wish I could do more. I wish I could get more home audio customers, because that's where people have the space to try to make lower powered systems as loud and efficient as possible. HT environments are just a different type of animal, at least compared to most vehicles. So, hit me up if you want to do some fun, advanced box building and testing. You might get a box you keep forever, and the design might be free.
When I did the box for this Dayton 10, I over sized the port to 20 sq. Inches per cube to see how it would act. Small chamber, big port, lots of xmax and a low tuning. I like a lot it in my Jeep for music. It responds better at lower listening levels then the box with a smaller port did, which is where I actually listen to music, as opposed to full tilt all over town. I am going to move this sub into my home stereo on a plate amplifier and move it into a much larger cabinet tuned in the low 20s. I’ve never done a big HT setup before. I’ve built a few shelf systems with the small Tang Band drivers and amplifier/preamp boards, but never anything big. An HT system with a nice 18 inch sub tuned down in the low 20s would be insane.
 
He used bathroom tile or its the same thing as Kitchen Tile. I am going to be doing something similar in my kitchen backsplash.
I almost used these on one side of my box. Lol. I have some left over from my mothers shower remodel. I’m still tempted to try it.
 
This one was built by the customer. The top and the color scheme on this box is one of the more unique ones I've seen. I like it. It's refreshing to see a different style like this. From what I'm told, the box worked out well and plays well, so I'm happy about that:

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It's just kitchen back splash or shower accent tile. I can't believe that will last very long unless his box has absolutely zero flex. Just driving on city streets would probably crack the grout and make it start falling apart. Good luck though! It looks cool!
 
Always did think those were cool in a small bathroom window because they can be colored to block everything going out but still let light in.

I have all the Italian tile for the floor in the bathroom when I do that, that **** was expensive as feck for even a small floor.

Would be interesting to see a box in that Italian Tile though. Maybe if I have some leftover on a small 10" test box or something for looks. Not like its hard to attach or seal up. And would be waterproof.
 
Always did think those were cool in a small bathroom window because they can be colored to block everything going out but still let light in.

I have all the Italian tile for the floor in the bathroom when I do that, that **** was expensive as feck for even a small floor.

Would be interesting to see a box in that Italian Tile though. Maybe if I have some leftover on a small 10" test box or something for looks. Not like its hard to attach or seal up. And would be waterproof.
I did a box 25 years ago with 1/2 inch mdf covered in sheet metal for a Cerwin Vega 8. It actually sounded quite horrible with a bad design, but looked cool.
 
When I did the box for this Dayton 10, I over sized the port to 20 sq. Inches per cube to see how it would act. Small chamber, big port, lots of xmax and a low tuning. I like a lot it in my Jeep for music. It responds better at lower listening levels then the box with a smaller port did, which is where I actually listen to music, as opposed to full tilt all over town. I am going to move this sub into my home stereo on a plate amplifier and move it into a much larger cabinet tuned in the low 20s. I’ve never done a big HT setup before. I’ve built a few shelf systems with the small Tang Band drivers and amplifier/preamp boards, but never anything big. An HT system with a nice 18 inch sub tuned down in the low 20s would be insane.

That's why I like T-lines for home audio. Free-air is where it's at for home audio, IMO. No loading chambers. I want to do a parallel t-line for home audio.
 
I’m layman’s terms = I am a bad m^therf^cker when it comes to designing boxes 😁
I'm picturing a box diagram with one that says "This is very profound, but I don't care that much" that points to one that says "I'm a bad motherfucker when it comes to designing boxes".
 
What do you think about this style of box? I was considering this style of design. It's for an extended cab pickup truck using 2 Skar Zvx 18's. It's sort of like a ported clamshell. How do you think this box looks?

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The box has me speechless, it turned out so well. I have been doing some testing over the weekend and it plays really low notes with authority in the teens. It plays so low I had to order more sound deadening. I heard something that I hadn't heard from the trunk before, matter of fact several things lol. I was like, "were is that noise coming from"? Turns out it was coming from the bottom of the car. The rear tire storage was literally flexing underneath the car. So, I will tackle that in the next few days. You are truly gifted with your designs! Thanks again. Edit..one more thing, the amp and subs are more efficient also.
 
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The box has me speechless, it turned out so well. I have been doing some testing over the weekend and it plays really low notes with authority in the teens. It plays so low I had to order more sound deadening. I heard something that I hadn't heard from the trunk before, matter of fact several things lol. I was like, "were is that noise coming from"? Turns out it was coming from the bottom of the car. The rear tire storage was literally flexing underneath the car. So, I will tackle that in the next few days. You are truly gifted with your designs! Thanks again. Edit..one more thing, the amp and subs are more efficient also.

Glad you like it! You certainly made it look cool, so it's a win-win.

I'm kind of surprised those subs play into the teens, but that's awesome, IMO :cool:
 
Massive Audio Hippo XL 122R (3000w RMS, 4" VC, 12" Sub) series 6th order bandpass going in the trunk of car and blowing through the rear deck.

This one took me a little while. Made the front port removable through the window hole that the sub mounts through, that you access through the removable window on the back of the series 6th order bandpass rear deck blowthrough box, lol. This whole box can be slid in and out of the trunk with the front/top port removed. Laying this out for a powerful sub with a high Fs like this Hippo is difficult, because the ports have to be fairly big. 3000w RMS 12's move a lot of air, naturally.

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The new Xv3's are WAYYYY more heavy duty than the v2's, it seems.

Sundown seems to keep making the X more and more powerful. The v3's are supposed to be 2000w rms and have a significantly larger motor. The OG Xv1 was 1250w rms. Now they're 2000w rms. Is the next Sa woofer going to be 1500 watts? Haha.
 
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Buck

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