Buck Box Designs - Refreshed Thread

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

2021 Silverado 1500 crew cab box for 3 jl12tw3 subs. need plans.

I PM'd you.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

It's been awhile since I heard anyone mention "acoustic coupling" IIrc this is when you run say a pair of subs very close together?

Not really what I meant. Sub positioning can definitely be part of it, but what I meant more or less is how any sub enclosure connects to the airspace it's pressurizing. More specifically, I'm talking about the way the port interacts with the airspace of the cabin (the transition of the air from the port to the cabin and the specifics ways that can be done).

 

[ExtremeODD 10+ year member]

Glad you got it built. It was quite an involved box. A lot of pieces and those flared ports can be difficult, especially a center one.

Get this amp if you have the 1000w Sa-12's: https://soundqubed.com/product/q1-2200-2-monoblock-amplifier/

It'll almost certainly play music better than that SFB and the price isn't that bad. I really hope you trust me on this amp recommendation. I can totally explain technically why I recommend this amp over the SFB.

I've ditched the SFB in favor of the SIA-3500 that came with the SA 12 kit (spending $80 to get a $400 amp and $60 1/0g install kit was a no brainer) and it's an improvement over the SFB in many ways. Full bridge is the future once manufacturers stop cuttnig corners and build them properly, and this one may not be fully there for being built properly but it's performing far better than the SFB did. Once I have the dough I'll grab a surfboard half bridge sometime but by then I'm sure full bridge design will have come into full swing. On a random note, deaf bonce apolocalypse mid ranges are beyond stupidly loud when fed even 100w/each (along with the accompanying T25 neo tweeters).

Got some build pics of this one. The person who built this did a really good job, IMO. I did not give the easiest port design here. Owner said it sounds really good. Right now, this Skar VXF is my favorite skar woofer. It's probably an overall better daily woofer than a ZVX (which is also 1500w rms).

I think he's going to maybe stain it or something, and that hasn't been done yet. I'm just impressed with how this turned out. This box was totally an OCD-took-over design from me, so I'm really glad it turned out well.

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And just like that, I feel deep shame in the quality of my buck build and might not post any pics until I get some woodworking equipment that isn't from the early 1950s. That's some solid woodworking/craftsman ship there!

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I've ditched the SFB in favor of the SIA-3500 that came with the SA 12 kit (spending $80 to get a $400 amp and $60 1/0g install kit was a no brainer) and it's an improvement over the SFB in many ways. Full bridge is the future once manufacturers stop cuttnig corners and build them properly, and this one may not be fully there for being built properly but it's performing far better than the SFB did. Once I have the dough I'll grab a surfboard half bridge sometime but by then I'm sure full bridge design will have come into full swing. On a random note, deaf bonce apolocalypse mid ranges are beyond stupidly loud when fed even 100w/each (along with the accompanying T25 neo tweeters).





And just like that, I feel deep shame in the quality of my buck build and might not post any pics until I get some woodworking equipment that isn't from the early 1950s. That's some solid woodworking/craftsman ship there!

I wouldn't feel bad man. I've physically made a some absolute doodoo boxes that I actually sold to people back in the day. Had very little tools, very little woodworking experience. I just jumped into it. The only thing on your box you could see is the front port. Early on we learned the art of making the outside of the box look like we knew what we were doing lol. So, worst case, you could always like paint the outside or do work on it to make it just look like any other box.

I really don't judge the quality of boxes that people build for themselves, unless they're bragging about it. It takes some decent money to consistently make high quality boxes. I actually know the costs of things like this, being that I've been around it and doing it for over a decade. I've always been a sound good over looks type of dude. Very few of my systems looked nice. I did too much testing and my whole vehicle and systems were always like science projects, nothing like a show vehicle lol.

If you want, you can email me pics of your box. I won't share it; I'd just like to see it. I like that box and the layout and the whole vehicle/system combo that you have. I don't think I've ever done a series 6th like that for a giant cabin like you have for 500w subs. I'd love to personally see it.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I've ditched the SFB in favor of the SIA-3500 that came with the SA 12 kit (spending $80 to get a $400 amp and $60 1/0g install kit was a no brainer) and it's an improvement over the SFB in many ways. Full bridge is the future once manufacturers stop cuttnig corners and build them properly, and this one may not be fully there for being built properly but it's performing far better than the SFB did. Once I have the dough I'll grab a surfboard half bridge sometime but by then I'm sure full bridge design will have come into full swing. On a random note, deaf bonce apolocalypse mid ranges are beyond stupidly loud when fed even 100w/each (along with the accompanying T25 neo tweeters).

I would get that SQ Q-2200 whenever you upgrade.

 

[ExtremeODD 10+ year member]

I wouldn't feel bad man. I've physically made a some absolute doodoo boxes that I actually sold to people back in the day. Had very little tools, very little woodworking experience. I just jumped into it. The only thing on your box you could see is the front port. Early on we learned the art of making the outside of the box look like we knew what we were doing lol. So, worst case, you could always like paint the outside or do work on it to make it just look like any other box.

I really don't judge the quality of boxes that people build for themselves, unless they're bragging about it. It takes some decent money to consistently make high quality boxes. I actually know the costs of things like this, being that I've been around it and doing it for over a decade. I've always been a sound good over looks type of dude. Very few of my systems looked nice. I did too much testing and my whole vehicle and systems were always like science projects, nothing like a show vehicle lol.

If you want, you can email me pics of your box. I won't share it; I'd just like to see it. I like that box and the layout and the whole vehicle/system combo that you have. I don't think I've ever done a series 6th like that for a giant cabin like you have for 500w subs. I'd love to personally see it.

The outside, after a bit of router work looks quite nice. Still figuring out a good gasket setup for the access port as the "sticky tack" style of weather stripping didn't want to compress well and makes it look a touch janky. Since the cheap 144t blade dulled mid way and chipped up the birch finish my plan is to sand, seal, bondo, prime, sand, and use the touch-up paint I got for the van to give it a matching medium cadet blue metallic with clearcoat automotive-style finish, since the damn hurricane delayed shipment of that kit until it got too cold to do the paintwork the van needed. I'll shoot plenty of pics before, during, and after. The goal is a near mirror gloss but I'd settle for sorta shiny if it comes down to it.

Also despite designing for 500/sub, it's handling the 1kw SA 12s being fed 2500-3500w without breaking a sweat so far. It's the loudest setup I've ever had the joy to experience, letalone own. Thank you again, not only for the design, but for providing me something challenging to build up my skill sets.

 

[ExtremeODD 10+ year member]

I've always been a sound good over looks type of dude. Very few of my systems looked nice. I did too much testing and my whole vehicle and systems were always like science projects, nothing like a show vehicle lol.

I feel that, so many people laughed at my 2000 s10 turbo build due to how much duct tape was holding down power lines going over the roof to the bed where the turbo and other gubbins were at, especially the brodozer bros and the 60k charger/challenger owners. All it took was grabbing a gear and some skinny pedal for that laugher to turn into anger. Complete turd but was pushing 400hp with 100% stock internals on 17-18 psi. Gotta be careful with the science project wiring though, torched the entire engine harness by being a touch too carefree with the unfused bodge wires.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

The outside, after a bit of router work looks quite nice. Still figuring out a good gasket setup for the access port as the "sticky tack" style of weather stripping didn't want to compress well and makes it look a touch janky. Since the cheap 144t blade dulled mid way and chipped up the birch finish my plan is to sand, seal, bondo, prime, sand, and use the touch-up paint I got for the van to give it a matching medium cadet blue metallic with clearcoat automotive-style finish, since the damn hurricane delayed shipment of that kit until it got too cold to do the paintwork the van needed. I'll shoot plenty of pics before, during, and after. The goal is a near mirror gloss but I'd settle for sorta shiny if it comes down to it.

Also despite designing for 500/sub, it's handling the 1kw SA 12s being fed 2500-3500w without breaking a sweat so far. It's the loudest setup I've ever had the joy to experience, letalone own. Thank you again, not only for the design, but for providing me something challenging to build up my skill sets.

Birch often chips. It can even do it with our CNC, which is spinning pretty fast and is super smooth. You can always fill and sand any birch gaps. Sometimes birch has little pockets missing out of one layer, so when you cut it, there's a small gap there. It stinks, because we've cut top engravings for stained boxes, and the CNC cut down into one of the layers with the gaps, and you have no idea it's there. You wind up with a engraved logo that has small chunks missing out of it. Just depends. Birch is somewhat less consistent than MDF, in a way.

 

[Ridinhi 5,000+ posts]

IIRC it's two Skar DDX 10's. I designed the box and the window hole, and my builder built the box and did the glass. He's still gotta do all of the finishing touches on it. I think it's outside for maybe paint or stain.

This is the glass going in it:

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Nice! I thought they were 8” cutouts

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Nice! I thought they were 8” cutouts

It's a behind the third row seats box.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

2 Skar DDX 12's ported going in a sedan trunk.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

Box with 2 10's seems small for an escalade, but I forget some people don't want to sacrifice 100% of their storage space for car audio, haha

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Box with 2 10's seems small for an escalade, but I forget some people don't want to sacrifice 100% of their storage space for car audio, haha

I agree. The small system keeps more space inside of the vehicle. It's just as much bass as could fit with everything considered, I guess.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

2 SSA F8L's ported in a wedge box under the seat of a full size quad cab pickup.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Birch often chips. It can even do it with our CNC, which is spinning pretty fast and is super smooth. You can always fill and sand any birch gaps. Sometimes birch has little pockets missing out of one layer, so when you cut it, there's a small gap there. It stinks, because we've cut top engravings for stained boxes, and the CNC cut down into one of the layers with the gaps, and you have no idea it's there. You wind up with a engraved logo that has small chunks missing out of it. Just depends. Birch is somewhat less consistent than MDF, in a way.

I've never seen gaps or chunks missing in the real Birch. That Home Depot and Lowes Birch is garbage.