hari-bhari
10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
I had another thread asking whether or not my 130A alternator was sufficient, but I think the title of this thread will be more appropriate for my question, as well as help others.
Here's my setup:
1) MB Quart DSC4125 amp (600w RMS) for speakers
2) BA GT-24 2-channel (700w RMS) pushing an D4 IDQ running at 2ohms.
3) NEW Optima yellow top battery, Resting voltage = 12.8V
4) 4awg wiring from battery to trunk (fused at 75A near battery), then 4awg to each amp via distro block
5) Big 3 upgrade with 4awg wire
6) 130A alternator, charges around 14.1 when car is cold, 13.8 when car is hot
7) Triple checked all my ground points, they are good
When I have tight bass hits, like kick drums, I get a very brief voltage drop to the mid 12s, enough to cause dimming of my headlights and my reverse glow gauges. However, long sustained bass hits (like on dubstep), the voltage drops briefly but then comes back up and is sustained at 13.3-13.4, which is fine.
Interestingly, even when I do things like roll up my windows, I get brief dimming of the headlights, and my car has been doing this forever (even with the original 60A alternator, with the new 130A alternator, and even my LAST solara did the same thing, must be a design flaw).
Since my main power line is fused at 75A, I know the amps are not drawing more than the alternator can supply, and this is also evident by the fact that the voltage is stable with long bass notes (>2-3 seconds). So my guess is that what I really need is a buffer for that extra current draw in the form of a second battery. Is upgrading all my wiring to 0awg really necessary? All the parts and wire was around $100 but I can return it since its unopened. Or is the fundamental problem here that I need a new alternator?
Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
Here's my setup:
1) MB Quart DSC4125 amp (600w RMS) for speakers
2) BA GT-24 2-channel (700w RMS) pushing an D4 IDQ running at 2ohms.
3) NEW Optima yellow top battery, Resting voltage = 12.8V
4) 4awg wiring from battery to trunk (fused at 75A near battery), then 4awg to each amp via distro block
5) Big 3 upgrade with 4awg wire
6) 130A alternator, charges around 14.1 when car is cold, 13.8 when car is hot
7) Triple checked all my ground points, they are good
When I have tight bass hits, like kick drums, I get a very brief voltage drop to the mid 12s, enough to cause dimming of my headlights and my reverse glow gauges. However, long sustained bass hits (like on dubstep), the voltage drops briefly but then comes back up and is sustained at 13.3-13.4, which is fine.
Interestingly, even when I do things like roll up my windows, I get brief dimming of the headlights, and my car has been doing this forever (even with the original 60A alternator, with the new 130A alternator, and even my LAST solara did the same thing, must be a design flaw).
Since my main power line is fused at 75A, I know the amps are not drawing more than the alternator can supply, and this is also evident by the fact that the voltage is stable with long bass notes (>2-3 seconds). So my guess is that what I really need is a buffer for that extra current draw in the form of a second battery. Is upgrading all my wiring to 0awg really necessary? All the parts and wire was around $100 but I can return it since its unopened. Or is the fundamental problem here that I need a new alternator?
Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
