Box Material

OP
SLKSonic

SLKSonic

CarAudio.com Newbie
Infinite baffle is not free air is still requires separating the front wave from the rear wave.

I mean you aren't doing a spare tire well build with a ported 12 maybe sealed maybe 1 10 ported or 2 10s sealed.

Really this is a poor choice of cars to get significant bass without using the trunk.

Yeah, I'm going with a sealed 12. That's been the plan. I'm probably going to create a tub from fiberglass for the lower part of the box. That way I can remove it. Now comes the fun part... speaker/amp combinations. I'm really not up on who the solid manufacturers are these days. I used to run Orion, had an MTX setup once that was surprisingly good.

Right now I'm leaning toward Kicker, MTX or Sundown... but I must do more research first.
 

winkychevelle

CarAudio.com Veteran
10+ year member
4,549
479
Ponchatoula, La
Yeah, I'm going with a sealed 12. That's been the plan. I'm probably going to create a tub from fiberglass for the lower part of the box. That way I can remove it. Now comes the fun part... speaker/amp combinations. I'm really not up on who the solid manufacturers are these days. I used to run Orion, had an MTX setup once that was surprisingly good.

Right now I'm leaning toward Kicker, MTX or Sundown... but I must do more research first.
Sundown sd4 12 on the sdx800.1 done deal.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SLKSonic

mat3833

CarAudio.com Elite
10+ year member
1,846
387
florida
Looks like I'm not needed here, I'll see myself out. Lol

Matt
 
  • Haha
Reactions: SLKSonic
OP
SLKSonic

SLKSonic

CarAudio.com Newbie
I'll be starting lower end than that, unfortunately. I may upgrade at a later point.

I've been working on some gear ideas (note the subs/amps tab at the bottom, too). My total budget for amp and sub to get started is 300... 400 if I stretch it. I'm aware that's insanely low but it is what it is. :)

Should I be looking at Orion?
 
Last edited:

winkychevelle

CarAudio.com Veteran
10+ year member
4,549
479
Ponchatoula, La
I'll be starting lower end than that, unfortunately. I may upgrade at a later point.

I've been working on some gear ideas (note the subs/amps tab at the bottom, too). My total budget for amp and sub to get started is 300... 400 if I stretch it. I'm aware that's insanely low but it is what it is. :)

Should I be looking at Orion?

Driving a convertible merc and only dropping 3-400 on subs good luck. It's gonna be fun getting the correct amp interface to get full range signal for that money.
 

hispls

CarAudio.com Veteran
5,000+ posts
10+ year member
13,185
1,434
Central Maine
Fiberglassing the spare tire well would be your best bet.
I did this many many years ago in a 1980 Lincoln Town Car and it was several hundred dollars worth of fiberglass supplies.. for point of reference I was buying glass bulk from a boatyard and that was back when Mark Wahlberg was still a boy band. I would not consider that method today unless I had money to burn or had an inside track on buying supplies on the cheap.
 

hispls

CarAudio.com Veteran
5,000+ posts
10+ year member
13,185
1,434
Central Maine
We had a word for "infinite baffle" back in the day, we called it "free air". :)
That's rather a misnomer. The theory is you're effectively building an infinite sized sealed box by completely separating the rear wave from the front wave of the woofer. There should be several good examples of this in build logs here on the forum, use the search function and check out some builds to see how it is done correctly. Also you must start with a woofer that has suitable parameters to sound good if you were to model it in a 16-20 cubic foot box (beyond that the response curve will be more or less the same out to infinity)
 
  • Like
Reactions: SLKSonic
OP
SLKSonic

SLKSonic

CarAudio.com Newbie
That's rather a misnomer. The theory is you're effectively building an infinite sized sealed box by completely separating the rear wave from the front wave of the woofer. There should be several good examples of this in build logs here on the forum, use the search function and check out some builds to see how it is done correctly. Also you must start with a woofer that has suitable parameters to sound good if you were to model it in a 16-20 cubic foot box (beyond that the response curve will be more or less the same out to infinity)
Yeah, I looked it up after my last post. We called it free air whether we installed subs on the back dash or on a wall built in place of the rear seat, even though it was actually infinite baffle. We were incorrect back in the 90s, too. :LOL: