box for zv3 with warden softparts

[conor_thompson 10+ year member]

So this aero port thing is kicking my ***. My box is 23x17x23 and I'm trying to tune it around 30. Seems like when I'm tuned there I don't have enough port area though. Can anyone tell me how big and how long they should be?

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

is this for a 15?

6 inch flared (must be flared) aero x 19 inches long.

the port amount area on the bare minimum side only if you flare it. Otherwise, you box dimensions will not be able to house a long enough aero for more port area.

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

is this for a 15?

6 inch flared (must be flared) aero x 19 inches long.

the port amount area on the bare minimum side only if you flare it. Otherwise, you box dimensions will not be able to house a long enough aero for more port area.

so out of curiosity i always see people say you "must be flared"... why is this? i have done alot of builds and not flared it. I know plenty of other poeple and competitors dont flare thier round ports all the time. I have flared my ports in the last 4 builds ive done and they still did great. I even tested 2 of 4 builds flare vs not before i sold them and the only real difference i seen was like 1 10th on the meter. All of my dimensions specs and tuning were still spot on with the aeroport calc's

Im not saying its not "the right way", i just dont understand the whole must be flared.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

so out of curiosity i always see people say you "must be flared"... why is this? i have done alot of builds and not flared it. I know plenty of other poeple and competitors dont flare thier round ports all the time. I have flared my ports in the last 4 builds ive done and they still did great. I even tested 2 of 4 builds flare vs not before i sold them and the only real difference i seen was like 1 10th on the meter. All of my dimensions specs and tuning were still spot on with the aeroport calc's
Im not saying its not "the right way", i just dont understand the whole must be flared.

Less port noise when it's flared and more efficient. True facts, when you have a lot of air velocity

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

Less port noise when it's flared and more efficient. True facts, when you have a lot of air velocity

i see... again im not saying my way is right by the way lol. I just have not seen enough difference for me to flare everytime. my port is now sonotube(no resin, does surprisingly well lol) and a extra plate over wheres its connected so it pretty much adds an extra 3/4 inch to the port and its sanded down and rounded off. the inside isnt flare though. I dont have any port noise that i can tell. So i guess you can say the front of the port is flared or rounded

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

i see... again im not saying my way is right by the way lol. I just have not seen enough difference for me to flare everytime. my port is now sonotube(no resin, does surprisingly well lol) and a extra plate over wheres its connected so it pretty much adds an extra 3/4 inch to the port and its sanded down and rounded off. the inside isnt flare though. I dont have any port noise that i can tell. So i guess you can say the front of the port is flared or rounded

Depends on how close the port is to you also. If it's in the trunk, port noise isn't as audible. Walls are the worst, imo.

The actual difference a flare makes depends on the install. If you have a ton of port area, the velocity won't be too bad, and it won't make a big difference. If you're going for a SQ install with lots of bandwidth and a flat response with minimal port area, I'd recommend flaring.

I just sanded the inside edge of my port, and that was enough to make port noise inaudible at full tilt.

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

Depends on how close the port is to you also. If it's in the trunk, port noise isn't as audible. Walls are the worst, imo.
The actual difference a flare makes depends on the install. If you have a ton of port area, the velocity won't be too bad, and it won't make a big difference. If you're going for a SQ install with lots of bandwidth and a flat response with minimal port area, I'd recommend flaring.

I just sanded the inside edge of my port, and that was enough to make port noise inaudible at full tilt.

yea thats what i did. the inside of the aero isnt rounded but sanded/rounded exit of the port seeing its wood. Yes mines in the trunk firing forward, i really need to see how or figure a way to seal it off.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

yea thats what i did. the inside of the aero isnt rounded but sanded/rounded exit of the port seeing its wood. Yes mines in the trunk firing forward, i really need to see how or figure a way to seal it off.

Cut an MDF baffle, then seal around the edges with expanding foam. Should do the trick!

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

Cut an MDF baffle, then seal around the edges with expanding foam. Should do the trick!

ughh i hate MDF lol... i use birch to build boxes lol. i know MDF is cheaper but birch is light and less chance of falling apart if it gets wet and dont have to pre drill birch

 

---------- Post added at 06:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:47 PM ----------

 

Cut an MDF baffle, then seal around the edges with expanding foam. Should do the trick!

i may have a scrap piece of birch laying around from where i built this box

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

ughh i hate MDF lol... i use birch to build boxes lol. i know MDF is cheaper but birch is light and less chance of falling apart if it gets wet and dont have to pre drill birch 

---------- Post added at 06:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:47 PM ----------

 

i may have a scrap piece of birch laying around from where i built this box

Birch will work fine for that

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

So this aero port thing is kicking my ***. My box is 23x17x23 and I'm trying to tune it around 30. Seems like when I'm tuned there I don't have enough port area though. Can anyone tell me how big and how long they should be?

Sorry for thread jacking OP lol..... Any way we would need some additional info such as Sub size(12 or 15), my assumption due to the box being 4 cubes gross), any other displacements(bracing, 45'd corners etc) to more accurate.

If you went with 4 cubes gross as it sits with out any bracing etc other then port and sub, then say you have a 15" and it displaces .15, and you port would be a 6" aero @ 19" long and displace .31, you get roughly 30hz, and you net enclosure volume would be around 3.54

 

---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------

 

Birch will work fine for that

spray foam is so messy tho ughhh

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

spray foam is so messy tho ughhh

Some people use insulation tape

 

[bgowdy 5,000+ posts]

Some people use insulation tape

how can you just use tape?

 

[conor_thompson 10+ year member]

Holy cow lol I went away for a couple hours and this thread blew up! Anyways, I could make an inch or two come out of the box if that would help it any? I'm putting a bunch of circle cutouts together, and gonna fiberglass them so i can make the flare as little or big as I should

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

so out of curiosity i always see people say you "must be flared"... why is this? i have done alot of builds and not flared it. I know plenty of other poeple and competitors dont flare thier round ports all the time. I have flared my ports in the last 4 builds ive done and they still did great. I even tested 2 of 4 builds flare vs not before i sold them and the only real difference i seen was like 1 10th on the meter. All of my dimensions specs and tuning were still spot on with the aeroport calc's
Im not saying its not "the right way", i just dont understand the whole must be flared.

The dimensions will have him at 7.8 por per cube and tge subs excursion is on the high side. Good chance of port noise without a flare.