Box Designers - Get at me! $$

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anger
10+ year member

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Sup community,

I'll try and keep this as short as possible...

I'm looking for somebody to work with me on an enclosure design. I was working with Buck until he informed me that they aren't doing just designs for the time being. I remember seeing other people referred to some other reputable builders/designers here.

I need a ported center console enclosure to house 2 12's in a '04 F150 Crew Cab. I attached some pics of a simple one I built to kinda test out the idea. Should be around 3.6ft^3 after displacement, tuned to about 33hz with 3.5" x 13" port area. It sounds pretty good, but I want to make some changes to the shape of the box (lengthen it for one, don't like the squared off back - see pic) and want to get someone involved that knows what they're doing...I don't have much experience and don't want to do any guessing this time around.

I'm willing to pay the right person.

A couple notes:

I've got RF P3's in there now but hoping to swap for a 'proper' pair of 12's eventually. Do enclosures need to be extremely specific to the drivers? Basically wondering if I can have an enclosure designed, run these P3's for a bit, then swap the pair later with no major issues.

Also, the internal volume of the one I built is to manufacture specs, but from what I understand, bigger is better, within reason...Is this correct?

Please let me know if you have the time & knowledge to take on this project, can send deposit to get started. Or if you're just reading and see an obvious flaw in my design, please, do tell.

Thanks!

View attachment 26547928View attachment 26547929View attachment 26547930View attachment 26547931View attachment 26547932

 
First of all, center is a terrible location for a sub in a vehicle. A corner or against a wall is virtually always best. Next, IMO that's enough volume to do 1 real big-boy 12" properly. Assuming you're not running more than 2000W there's no reason to go with 2 cheap subs in too-small box over 1 high tier sub. Also, I'm not sure what you listen to, but 32hz tuning is very low IMO.

Lastly, seems your woodworking skills are pretty solid, if you're off even 20% in your port or volume calculations the difference will likely be inaudible so I wouldn't worry so much about splitting hairs on your measurements or calculations. Focus on building solid and tight and you will be fine.

 
First of all, center is a terrible location for a sub in a vehicle. A corner or against a wall is virtually always best. Next, IMO that's enough volume to do 1 real big-boy 12" properly. Assuming you're not running more than 2000W there's no reason to go with 2 cheap subs in too-small box over 1 high tier sub. Also, I'm not sure what you listen to, but 32hz tuning is very low IMO.
Ok, Thanks for the input. I'm only running 1000w. I thought the most cone area would be ideal, but i guess it makes sense that a higher end sub would perform better. I listen to Hip Hop & Metal, and not much in between. I like to demo it with decaf. I'm not too keen on port tuning...I assumed the frequency response rolled off pretty steep below the tuning frequency. Guess I should research that more.

Thanks again.

 
Ok, Thanks for the input. I'm only running 1000w. I thought the most cone area would be ideal, but i guess it makes sense that a higher end sub would perform better. I listen to Hip Hop & Metal, and not much in between. I like to demo it with decaf. I'm not too keen on port tuning...I assumed the frequency response rolled off pretty steep below the tuning frequency. Guess I should research that more.
Thanks again.
I guess if you like to play slowed down sine waves you should tune low, but you generally sacrifice a lot in the bandwidth if actual music to get there. High end sub in adequate box size is better all around then low quality cone area in too-small space.

 
I guess if you like to play slowed down sine waves you should tune low, but you generally sacrifice a lot in the bandwidth if actual music to get there. High end sub in adequate box size is better all around then low quality cone area in too-small space.
I agree completely. Focus on an optimal enclosure rather than cramming in more cone area.

 
I guess if you like to play slowed down sine waves you should tune low, but you generally sacrifice a lot in the bandwidth if actual music to get there. High end sub in adequate box size is better all around then low quality cone area in too-small space.
So you're suggesting, before doing anything, get a decent sub?...Which ones should I be looking at that would do well in my setup? 3.5-4ft^3 on 1000w. And what's a good tuning frequency that wouldn't sacrifice so much bandwidth?

I realize center isn't the ideal position for subs, but that's what I've got to work with, I don't want to sacrifice anymore seats. Was even considering a blow through, with these 4 12" Punch HE's I have collecting dust in the garage, so I could keep all the seats...we'll save that for another day though. At this point, I don't feel comfortable cutting holes in my truck.

Thanks again for your input, much appreciated.

 
So you're suggesting, before doing anything, get a decent sub?...Which ones should I be looking at that would do well in my setup? 3.5-4ft^3 on 1000w. And what's a good tuning frequency that wouldn't sacrifice so much bandwidth?
I realize center isn't the ideal position for subs, but that's what I've got to work with, I don't want to sacrifice anymore seats. Was even considering a blow through, with these 4 12" Punch HE's I have collecting dust in the garage, so I could keep all the seats...we'll save that for another day though. At this point, I don't feel comfortable cutting holes in my truck.

Thanks again for your input, much appreciated.
I've never had the balls to cut through a pickup either though I'd always thought about it when I owned them.

TC 3hp based subs would be great if you could find an old TC-3000, Eclipse Ti, or LA Storm for reasonable. Sundown Z is also really solid. SSA-Xcon, Fi BTL, DD 95XX, or the JBL Wgti (if you can deal with the mounting depth they're highly regarded SQ woofers that'll take 1200W continuous) Don't rule out 12W7 either if you can get one for a fair price (under 400$ shipped). I find it's a good idea to stick with the higher end stuff that uses common size style parts just in case you break it or just wear it out over time, and popular high quality woofers you can always get most of your money back for later if/when you want to switch up or upgrade.

If you can't do better, I can build up a nice 12" shocker sig and ship it to you for 365$, they are amazing in 3-4 cube tuned @ 37-38hz. I find that's a good neighborhood to tune that'll extend down to 30-32 without rolling off too steeply in the high 50's where you want the punch from drum hits or bass guitar.

 
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anger

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