Box design help for RE SE12

GMMTC

Junior Member
Hello, I'm trying to build a box for a single RE SE12" I just purchased.

I'm using a Hifonics BXi1606D @ 2 ohms (900-1100 watts rms depending on who you ask)

I was looking at the RE Calculator, but I was reading this thread (http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=245710) and they mentioned their calculator tuning freq is off. I plugged in some of the free box designs found on the sticky here and I found this seemed to be true so I'm going to avoid that calculator.

Now I'm reading for the SE12 they recommend 2.0 CuFt+PD (Port Displacement) tuned to 33hz.

I took at the free sub box designs and I pretty much decided on one of the following designs:

2 CuFt @ 32hz v1

2 CuFt @ 32hz v2

2.15 CuFt @ 32hz

2.35 CuFt @ 33hz

I did some calculations and it seems they already take into account the 0.15 driver displacement of the SE12, so thats good. I couldn't find a 2.0 @ 33hz so the above 4 are the closest. I found a 2.35 @ 33hz, is it worse to have a larger box than what RE recommends?? I'm not really going for SQ or anything just some hard pounding bass. The box is going into a van so size isn't a huge issue.

I do want the option to take it out of the vehicle, so I want to do a CRX style box (I think thats what this is called) where the sub points up and the port points towards the rear of the van. This is so I don't wreck the sub while carrying it around. I found a picture of what I mean. The only problem I have is I don't know if this person did the L shaped port or not. Could the long L shaped port cause a problem mounting the sub like this sound wise? I did choose the 4 above designs based on being able to mount the sub like this size wise.

PICT0654.jpg


 
That difference in size wont hurt anything. And the posted pic more than likely has an L-port going across the back wall, just be aware of where it is in relation to the sub cut out so it doesnt hit.

 
That difference in size wont hurt anything. And the posted pic more than likely has an L-port going across the back wall, just be aware of where it is in relation to the sub cut out so it doesnt hit.
Will it help much? I don't want to make it larger if it doesn't need to be?

 
I doubt you will really notice a .35 cube difference. A larger enclosure will decrease power handling while making it more efficient, depending on how much larger of course.

But between the sizes you have listed its not much of a difference.

 
I doubt you will really notice a .35 cube difference. A larger enclosure will decrease power handling while making it more efficient, depending on how much larger of course.
But between the sizes you have listed its not much of a difference.
Only mechanical power handling is decreased. Thermal power handling will remain the same. In a ported box with SSF and a high Xmax woofer, thermal power handling is often exceeded before mechanical power handling.

 
Thanks for the input guys, here's the finished product. I made some improvements on the original pic I posted such as routered port edges, mounted sub not so close to the edge and used more screws in the proper places. Used wood glue on all the pieced before screwing them together and used silicone on all the inside edges.

I have to make one in my car for the same setup, it's going to be a lot tougher because I only have 9 inches vertically to work with.

IMG_0965.jpg


IMG_0966.jpg


 
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GMMTC

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