Box build for Ravens9322

[snfsh79077 10+ year member]

well you said you were taking out or folding down the rear seat right? If so that box should fit without plastics out if slid forward a little...interesting design though. How many cuft?

 

[Goindef154 5,000+ posts]

Nice lookin box.

 

[dcole18 5,000+ posts]

Yea, I def need to work on the paint skills, the port came out the best because there was no wind when I did the port but when I did the box the wind was blowing the primer away even with the can like 3" away from the box.
I wish I had a garage //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

That's a nice looking box BTW //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

i did all that painting outside... just takes lots of practice

thanks for the compliment tho, urs dosent look half bad either //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

that looks good, i'm thinkin about painting half the box i'm going to make. you use a high build primer then sand or just a couple coats of primer and paint?

high build primer will work even better, all the paint used on that box was the $0.96 a can stuff from walmart //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[ravens9322 10+ year member]

well you said you were taking out or folding down the rear seat right? If so that box should fit without plastics out if slid forward a little...interesting design though. How many cuft?

Well i am taking the back seats out sometime but for now i just want it in the hatch, but i got it to fit, so all is good and well

 

[snfsh79077 10+ year member]

sweet well I cant wait to see some vids with the sx's. Im going to get pics and vids of the install I did in my freinds tiburon next week.

 

[SPY 5,000+ posts]

Well i am taking the back seats out sometime but for now i just want it in the hatch, but i got it to fit, so all is good and well

How about some pics with the subs?

 

[ravens9322 10+ year member]

well i only have one sx right now and im in the process of getting another cuz i got my goverment money.....yay

And i just bought a brand new 880prs last night so thats on the way

 

[2003BlackShark 10+ year member]

hey ravens next time you come down to maryland man hit me up so we can chill and bs for a while

 

[ravens9322 10+ year member]

Sounds good dude^^^^ maybe in a month or so

 

[nycking23 10+ year member]

nice box

hey dcole, thats my box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[dcole18 5,000+ posts]

nice box
hey dcole, thats my box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

haha... that it is

did you ever get everything installed?

 

[nycking23 10+ year member]

not yet, still havent picked up an amp for it

although i did test fit the box and its so f*cking tight i need another person to help me get it in the car, there is absolutely no room to spare

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

Enclosure looks great, paintjob looks like ****. If you're offended by that, don't be, because I've painted some of the most hideous looking **** ever, so take my advice on painting (I'll have pics tomorrow once I clearcoat my rear channels). There are 4 main steps to a good paintjob, plus the secret detail;

1. Sand the enclosure four times: 60 grit, 150 grit, 220 grit, 320 grit. This helps to knock down almost all the imperfections and helps seal up the end grain a little bit.

2. Seal the enclosure using a sealant of your choice, whether it be shellac, glue-wash, fiberglass or sanding sealer. Make sure you spend good time on this step, and sand in between each coat after the first two. Go to increasing grits from 320 up to 400.

3. Bondo all edges, joints, screw holes and flaws. Make sure and be very thorough when doing this, because endgrain can swell when sealing and shows very easily. Most likely the most frustrating thing ever. Make sure you sand down the bondo first with 220 grit, then 320. Should repeat twice to remove pin holes after the first go around.

4. Prime using automotive primer or other fast drying primer. Two coats, one on top of the other, very thin. That's the key to successful painting, getting a GLASS smooth primer base that is thick enough to dry sand with 320 to remove most imperfections. Dry sand the first two coats with 320, apply another coat and wet sand with 600, then another coat and wetsand with 800 or 1500. Enclosure should literally feel like glass.

From there, use the top coat of your choice, but keep in mind to do steady, even strokes and do many thin coats instead of few thick coats. You get less runs and the finish looks more even in the end.

The secret detail? It takes a lot of time to get a paint finish looking good. Even if you spend hours, the smallest things show up and make you frustrated. Don't rush it, just keep going at it. You shouldn't be able to sand, seal, prime and paint an enclosure in the course of a day if you take your time, as it takes a few hours to be able to fully dry sand primer anyway.

Keep up the good work. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[dcole18 5,000+ posts]

Enclosure looks great, paintjob looks like ****. If you're offended by that, don't be, because I've painted some of the most hideous looking **** ever, so take my advice on painting (I'll have pics tomorrow once I clearcoat my rear channels). There are 4 main steps to a good paintjob, plus the secret detail;
1. Sand the enclosure four times: 60 grit, 150 grit, 220 grit, 320 grit. This helps to knock down almost all the imperfections and helps seal up the end grain a little bit.

2. Seal the enclosure using a sealant of your choice, whether it be shellac, glue-wash, fiberglass or sanding sealer. Make sure you spend good time on this step, and sand in between each coat after the first two. Go to increasing grits from 320 up to 400.

3. Bondo all edges, joints, screw holes and flaws. Make sure and be very thorough when doing this, because endgrain can swell when sealing and shows very easily. Most likely the most frustrating thing ever. Make sure you sand down the bondo first with 220 grit, then 320. Should repeat twice to remove pin holes after the first go around.

4. Prime using automotive primer or other fast drying primer. Two coats, one on top of the other, very thin. That's the key to successful painting, getting a GLASS smooth primer base that is thick enough to dry sand with 320 to remove most imperfections. Dry sand the first two coats with 320, apply another coat and wet sand with 600, then another coat and wetsand with 800 or 1500. Enclosure should literally feel like glass.

From there, use the top coat of your choice, but keep in mind to do steady, even strokes and do many thin coats instead of few thick coats. You get less runs and the finish looks more even in the end.

The secret detail? It takes a lot of time to get a paint finish looking good. Even if you spend hours, the smallest things show up and make you frustrated. Don't rush it, just keep going at it. You shouldn't be able to sand, seal, prime and paint an enclosure in the course of a day if you take your time, as it takes a few hours to be able to fully dry sand primer anyway.

Keep up the good work. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

X2... this is what i do when going for a "glass" finish but if you just want a decent looking job you can do without the sealer and whatnot (if your carefull)

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

You have to use **** ton of primer though, which ends up being more expensive than a 3 dollar can of shellac //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif