box aesthetics

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

couple of ?'s. what brand of round over bit do you use? i bought one and the edge gouges into the wood. my router has a 1/2" shank. i think i have an adapter to make it 1/4 inch though.

in a slot port. what bit can i use to round off that transition between the baffle and the inside port wall? do i do a 1/4 round edge on the port wall and the baffle?

my table saw is a piece of junk and never does 45 degree corners right. so i have to butt them together, meaning i'll have to do a little finish work on the joints. i was thinking that maybe a roll on primer would do a little better job covering up joints and patch work. anyone use roll on? a little more sanding maybe. i can deal with an extra 15 minutes of sanding to get a blemish free surface.

thanks.

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[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

I use a 3/8" roundover. Gouging usually means the blade is dull.

If you want the joints perfectly smooth to paint then use bondo first, sand that smooth, then spray on several coats of primer. The end grain will **** up a LOT of paint, but you can make it look nice if you take your time.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

Use a flush bit to make the edges...flush.

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

i use porter cable or bosch router bits and like mlstrass i use a 3/8 roundover. Just route the whole port opening not just the baffle edge

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

Use a flush bit to make the edges...flush.

lol. i don't have a problem with the edges being flush. it doesn't matter how flush they are, you still have to finish the edge.

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

lol. i don't have a problem with the edges being flush. it doesn't matter how flush they are, you still have to finish the edge.

not true...only if you want to finish them. If everything is flush then why do anything else? Especially when carpeting

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

i use porter cable or bosch router bits and like mlstrass i use a 3/8 roundover. Just route the whole port opening not just the baffle edge

ahh. that makes sense. i've been using aero's. now that i picture it in my head, you are right. do the whole inside square:blackeye:

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

not true...only if you want to finish them. If everything is flush then why do anything else? Especially when carpeting

but i'm not carpeting. i'm painting. a very glossy paint. every little blemish will show. it's kinda the point of this thread.

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

but i'm not carpeting. i'm painting. a very glossy paint. every little blemish will show. it's kinda the point of this thread.

well why didn't you say so then? you definately want to get a perfect surface then. Also, if you hit any screws with your roundover bit, check it for nicks in the cutting edge.

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

And i never use any screws in a box that i end up painting. You could potentially put a bulge in the panel when you drive the screw in.

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

well why didn't you say so then? you definately want to get a perfect surface then. Also, if you hit any screws with your roundover bit, check it for nicks in the cutting edge.

i don't use screws. i use clamps. i think the bit is just cheap. i saw a 20$ bit and a 9$ bit next to each other and got the 9$ one. now i'm gonna end up spending 29$ for a bit i've been using taping mud, which is drywall mud or spackling with a little extra glue in it. this application is in a friends suv and will be prone to getting banged up. i thought the bondo was a good idea that another poster proposed. def. stronger than drywall mud.

 

[DBDRAGGUY 10+ year member]

couple of ?'s. what brand of round over bit do you use? i bought one and the edge gouges into the wood. my router has a 1/2" shank. i think i have an adapter to make it 1/4 inch though.
in a slot port. what bit can i use to round off that transition between the baffle and the inside port wall? do i do a 1/4 round edge on the port wall and the baffle?

my table saw is a piece of junk and never does 45 degree corners right. so i have to butt them together, meaning i'll have to do a little finish work on the joints. i was thinking that maybe a roll on primer would do a little better job covering up joints and patch work. anyone use roll on? a little more sanding maybe. i can deal with an extra 15 minutes of sanding to get a blemish free surface.

thanks.

A few tricks I use.

Sand all corners and edges with 80 grit and a hand block

use USC Duraglass to finish all the seams, including the inner port walls

Also use the Duraglass to fill in all screw holes

Use a catylized primer, it will soak into the MDF and harden it when cured

Hand block the primer inside and out, blow out the inside and use a tack cloth to pick up any left over dust.

I recommend using an automotive paint, and finishing with a ready to shoot clear coat. If you take the time to do it as described your box will look like a finished countertop and will last a long time.