Bought 2 RE audio 18 SX's....... and....

[snfsh79077 10+ year member]

so you dont think this was making the amplifier any weaker than if it had its full required fusing ? or any less able to produce the propper amount of current ?
i have a big feeling that this is why the thing sounds so quiet unless the gain is cranked, anybody blown a fuse b4 ? the amp still plays just sounds quiet and like shit...

well maybe since the fuse isnt blown, but is 100 amps less than required the amplifier is just extremely cut-back and not reciving the current it needs from that point back.

This combined with the capacitor cannot be helping at all.

a fuse wont cause any of that. The only thing it will do is blow and then your amp will not get any power at all. The problem has been stated, it is your electrical and amp clipping that are the main problems. Get those taken care of and then we can go from there.

 

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

so you dont think this was making the amplifier any weaker than if it had its full required fusing ? or any less able to produce the propper amount of current ?
i have a big feeling that this is why the thing sounds so quiet unless the gain is cranked, anybody blown a fuse b4 ? the amp still plays just sounds quiet and like shit...

well maybe since the fuse isnt blown, but is 100 amps less than required the amplifier is just extremely cut-back and not reciving the current it needs from that point back.

This combined with the capacitor cannot be helping at all.

it is amazing that the 100 amp fuse didnt blow!! I really dont get it, but fuses arent supposed to lessen flow. I always thought they must in some way, but we need them. when u get a sudden boost in output it is usually clipping. If you are dropping below 12 volts u r lucky yer amp is holding up. Those BXI amps dont like low voltage at all! Trust me, I speak from experience. You will likely need to buy a new type of fuse holdr to hold the 250 amp fuse unless u already have an anl type one now.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

it is amazing that the 100 amp fuse didnt blow!! I really dont get it, but fuses arent supposed to lessen flow. I always thought they must in some way, but we need them. when u get a sudden boost in output it is usually clipping. If you are dropping below 12 volts u r lucky yer amp is holding up. Those BXI amps dont like low voltage at all! Trust me, I speak from experience. You will likely need to buy a new type of fuse holdr to hold the 250 amp fuse unless u already have an anl type one now.

thanks for that information guys, heres the video :

http://blip.tv/file/1990713/

the fuse is 150A.

anyways, when i put the battery in if i end up doing that myself i will now look into how to chage the fuse there, or that might be a bit over my head we'll see.

Either way i am getting thease problems taken care of and eliminating more possiblitys so we can pin-point the problem, witch i think we partially already have wtih the electrical.

 

[hornedfrog1985 5,000+ posts]

You are probably just clipping your amp by low voltage like it's already been said.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

i agree, but i doubt the impropper fuse size is helping. Anyways i am looking into how to do a battery myself, i am very motivated to get into this and be able to do it myself. Then i can tear that box out of the car and re-do another top with bigger porting ( i can do box's ok ) just never worked with having to hide wire, or connect batterys just things i am kind of nervous about.

I hope that i can figure it all out, and it goes easy. I will need to find somthing to crimp like you said, what works well for this is there a special tool for it ?

also how should i rig my battery to my trunk so it does not move around while it is back there ?

so you run a 0 gauge cable from the + to the + (front battery to back battery)

and the - to the - (from the front battery to the back battery), aswell as a ground comming from the terminal and connecting down to a solid place.

What would i need to be able to take the fuse out/change it ? is that just a matter of buying a new fuse in a new case and taking that one out and placing the new one in ?

thanks guys ! maybe one day i will be able to put this all together and start installing my own stuff...

 

[hornedfrog1985 5,000+ posts]

THE FUSE HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH IT! It will do absolutely nothing. The problem is that your fuse SHOULD have blown if you were pulling the proper current, but you're not.

You can ground the battery in the rear in the trunk somewhere so you don't have to run another length of wire.

 

[snfsh79077 10+ year member]

THE FUSE HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH IT! It will do absolutely nothing. The problem is that your fuse SHOULD have blown if you were pulling the proper current, but you're not.
You can ground the battery in the rear in the trunk somewhere so you don't have to run another length of wire.

x2 your fuse has nothing to do with any problems you have.

I didn't look at the video but usually all you need to change the fuse is to open the holder, unscrew the fuse and replace with the correct one.

As for securing the battery you can either build a holder out of wood and screw the holder down or just use some strap and strap the battery down. When you run your 0 gauge you will need to put a fuse 6" from the front battery and another 6" front the back battery on the run from the front to back battery. You don't need to make another run for the negative if you don't want to. You can just ground it to a solid ground spot in the back.

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

I have made a few threads about my voltage issues lately... EVERYONE is telling me to run another run of 0GA for my ground... for some people it has made a significant difference as far as voltage drop.

ALso, i have been told those ANL fuses have some weird crap happen with them every now and then.... I took mine out the other day, and the fuse literally just fell apart!!... can't hurt to try and replace it just to make 100% sure, even though in this case it's probably not the issue

 

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

Buy a 250 amp anl type fuse and replace it and be done with the fuse issue, so you can get to the real meat which is voltage drop. Either your batteries are always drained from constant loud music with no break and no recharge at night, or you just need to get that other alt in.It could also be the ground point for the amp or cap is weak as well.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Buy a 250 amp anl type fuse and replace it and be done with the fuse issue, so you can get to the real meat which is voltage drop. Either your batteries are always drained from constant loud music with no break and no recharge at night, or you just need to get that other alt in.It could also be the ground point for the amp or cap is weak as well.

i agree 100 % i think that the fuse is not helping the situation, but im not fully convinced its not a big problem, it could be limiting current through it, or could actually be blown who knows. I called dynamic audio and he said it will only allow a certian amount of current to flow through it depending on the size of the fuse, and that he is suprised my fuse isnt already blown.

(heard that from a few people now who have seen this vid/heard about it.)

Either way i am having my fuse replaced first and see the difference that makes, and then install the 2nd battery, because i can likely get that fuse within the next couple days, and eliminate that from the picture.

Also, the power cable from the alternator going to the battery should be changed to 0 gauge wire correct ? i don't think future shop ever touched that, where can i look for it ?

thanks guys ! we'll get this solved eliminating the issues 1 by 1, I should have been smarter and tackled this issue from the beginning but i never thought anything of it. But it was so ovious, why does a 2400-2600 RMS amplifier sound so quiet at 1ohm unless the gain is set up to full, i should have figured out this issue right after future shop installed the amplifier and i noticed the gain cranked so high, and without it turned so high the amplifier is incredibly quiet for how much RMS is suposedly is comming out of it.

Once this problem is resolved and my amplifier is putting out nice, clean power i can adjust my settings around that with my subwoofers and i will probably be out of the park with the over-heating issue.

I was probably having the same issues with the MA audio subwoofers, just never smealt them or felt the warm dust caps because they where in a sealed box, and inverted so they always seemed cool.

So now i am 100% focused on figureing out why my amplifier is so quiet unless gain is at full setting. and with your guys's help i know we'll figure it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

-andrew

 

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

I never asked, but assumed that the big 3 are done

 

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

The big 3 are as follows upgraded wiring from alt to battery positive, upgraded ground wire from batt neg to frame, and upgraded engine block ground. Preferably done in 1/0 awg just as is the wire from front positive to rear of car to amp or batterie(s) in trunk. H/O alt can not put out high current with a wimpy 6 awg oem wire.

 

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

Also power works in a loop, the ground has to be as strong as the positive connections.

 

[hornedfrog1985 5,000+ posts]

i agree 100 % i think that the fuse is not helping the situation, but im not fully convinced its not a big problem, it could be limiting current through it, or could actually be blown who knows. I called dynamic audio and he said it will only allow a certian amount of current to flow through it depending on the size of the fuse, and that he is suprised my fuse isnt already blown.(heard that from a few people now who have seen this vid/heard about it.)

Either way i am having my fuse replaced first and see the difference that makes, and then install the 2nd battery, because i can likely get that fuse within the next couple days, and eliminate that from the picture.

Also, the power cable from the alternator going to the battery should be changed to 0 gauge wire correct ? i don't think future shop ever touched that, where can i look for it ?

thanks guys ! we'll get this solved eliminating the issues 1 by 1, I should have been smarter and tackled this issue from the beginning but i never thought anything of it. But it was so ovious, why does a 2400-2600 RMS amplifier sound so quiet at 1ohm unless the gain is set up to full, i should have figured out this issue right after future shop installed the amplifier and i noticed the gain cranked so high, and without it turned so high the amplifier is incredibly quiet for how much RMS is suposedly is comming out of it.

Once this problem is resolved and my amplifier is putting out nice, clean power i can adjust my settings around that with my subwoofers and i will probably be out of the park with the over-heating issue.

I was probably having the same issues with the MA audio subwoofers, just never smealt them or felt the warm dust caps because they where in a sealed box, and inverted so they always seemed cool.

So now i am 100% focused on figureing out why my amplifier is so quiet unless gain is at full setting. and with your guys's help i know we'll figure it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

-andrew

I'm going to punch you in the face if you don't stop saying/thinking that. He was saying that the fuse would blow, and that is how it would limit the current coming through it. You aren't drawing enough volts, because your eletrical sucks to blow that fuse. That is why he is surprised it hasn't blown, you should be drawing 200+ amps, and you're not even drawing 150. You are clipping the poop out of your amp/sub.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

The big 3 are as follows upgraded wiring from alt to battery positive, upgraded ground wire from batt neg to frame, and upgraded engine block ground. Preferably done in 1/0 awg just as is the wire from front positive to rear of car to amp or batterie(s) in trunk. H/O alt can not put out high current with a wimpy 6 awg oem wire.

they left all the origonal battery cables and grounds, the only one of those that has been done is one i asked my mechanic to do, and that was to ground the battery to the chasis from the negative with a nice big 1 gauge wire.

So it still needs an upgraded engine block ground, and then the wiring going from the alternator to the battery positive needs to be upgraded aswell, i gotcha.

Thease are more things i am going to eliminate within the next couple weeks. Also getting the new H-O alternator ASAP is going to be on the top of my list.

1. fuse

2. replace capacitor with battery & handle grounding issues.

3. 2nd H-O alternator

Thease three objectives should eliminate alot of possibility's causing the exessive over-heating, and hopefully clear things up when all is said and done.

I might actually get my 2nd alternator done before i put the 2nd battery in, what do you guys think ? i think the order above is good. But if you dont agree, and think i should get my 2nd alternator first please let me know.

Hornedfrog, lol i dont mean to keep upsetting you or frusterating you. Im just taking what i hear and typing it out on thease boards. I just want thease issues resolved, and to somebody with no real knowledge of the electrical technicalitys behind a high-output audio system, Having a 150amp fuse instead of the required 250amp fuse seems like a big deal, so i just have to kind of absorb that and realise that it hasnt blown yet because its not even drawing 150 amps correct ?

Hopefully the fuse hasnt already blown, we will see as soon as it gets taken out and replaced ASAP. Stay tunned guys,

-andrew