Bought 2 RE audio 18 SX's....... and....

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

why do you keep going to the same shitty shop if they keep fcking up everything you go there for?
hmm...

if you arnt paying attention dont bother wasting a post, i stopped going there once they screwed the install up and i am now taking them to small claims court, and im making a short film about it and im gonna hand them out infront of there store and installation bay and at any car audio show i go to intown, they cant be aloud to continue to practice buisness like this.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

thanks guys for your help, i appreciate it alot. I thought that little bit of garbage scared posters away i thought i was screwed lol.
but yeah, i am going to deal with the battery tomarow, and maybe a new head unit depending on if the eclipse 5v has a internal amp, even if it does i might just wait until i get this battery in, then get an internal amplifier and the 8v verison so i dont have to upgrade agian, then get my 2nd alternator.

my 2nd alternator, i have an option to get a 150amp or a 200amp one, the 200amp one's are for police cruisers because of all the extra electronics, apparently they fit Crystler LHS's with a bit of modifications.

so tomarow will be : 2nd battery installed, cap removed. Total battery power ( in kinetik model #'s) = 3800.

aswell as getting the 250amp fuse replacing the incorrect one futureshop installed.

my Alternator is a 140 or 150 amp i cant quite remember, its in this post b4, so dont get all over me for that ive said i have a bad memory, id run out right now and check but its raining.

Yeah the plan is to get all of this resolved, but i have been rolling around the last few days pounding the system hard i got a DB metre, and i tryed it with the gain turned way down and no bass eq with the crappy head unit, and the capacitor it hit 125.9 db

hopefully when i get my new battery in, my new head unit, and my new alternator and the amplifier puts out its true RMS, because like the poster 2 posts up said your amp can only put out as much RMS as your electrical system allows.

anyways guys thanks alot for all the help ! i will update you tomarow, and as always will include videos.

Ohyeah, heres another little jewel for you check this out have always been wondering what the creaking noise was in the back seats since i took it there for the VERY first time they did an install on it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HkwXNgkt24

Just to get the thread back on the right track...

cant wait to get the 150amp fuse replaced, thats another one that really made me boil that futurehsop didnt even put the propper sized fuse in my amplifier, when i gave it to them in the box with the instruction manual. None of witch i ever got back.

Deffinatly going to make thease guys pay legally and put them in there place they think they can just scam the hell out of people and especially myself and chelsea because we are a younger couple.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

going to have the 2nd battery in by the end of today, and the 2 major wires replaced that they forgot, the engine block 0 gauge ground, and 0 gauge power wire from the alternator to the battery, as well as my improper fuse that future shop installed for my amplifier replaced, the incorrect 150 amp fuse will be replaced with the correct sized 250 amp fuse that my hifonics brutus requires, it will finally have the proper sized fuse in it for the first time.

Will have video and documentation of the hole thing as usual. Going to get the new head-unit after i get these 4 things done and see how big of an improvement it makes replacing the capacitor with this big battery and also replacing those 2 important wires with the appropriate sized wire for the ammount of current i am running aswell as putting the propper sized fuse in my amplifier.

Also the 0 gauge power cable comming from the battery up into the fuse house where the 150 amp fuse is, is very shottly done theyre is alot of exposed wire and they dont look like they are in that well so i am sure that i am going to get that on camera and make sure to have it fixed aswell and make sure everything is done right in-terms of the 2 batterys, and all the wire/fusing required.

 

[snfsh79077 10+ year member]

going to have the 2nd battery in by the end of today, and the 2 major wires replaced that they forgot, the engine block 0 gauge ground, and 0 gauge power wire from the alternator to the battery, as well as my improper fuse that future shop installed for my amplifier replaced, the incorrect 150 amp fuse will be replaced with the correct sized 250 amp fuse that my hifonics brutus requires, it will finally have the proper sized fuse in it for the first time.
Will have video and documentation of the hole thing as usual. Going to get the new head-unit after i get these 4 things done and see how big of an improvement it makes replacing the capacitor with this big battery and also replacing those 2 important wires with the appropriate sized wire for the ammount of current i am running aswell as putting the propper sized fuse in my amplifier.

Also the 0 gauge power cable comming from the battery up into the fuse house where the 150 amp fuse is, is very shottly done theyre is alot of exposed wire and they dont look like they are in that well so i am sure that i am going to get that on camera and make sure to have it fixed aswell and make sure everything is done right in-terms of the 2 batterys, and all the wire/fusing required.

When you connect the front and back batteries make sure you put fuses 6" from each battery with 300amp fuses preferably.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Let me know what you think, was going to do alot of it myself but we didnt have enough of the propper equipment to do it right or the propper facilitys since it was raining all weekend. ( no garage )

So with that taken care of, I am now going to re-set the gain settings with the Metre, i lost the power chart could somebody send it to me if they know what im talking about ? It is the one with the RMS/Ac voltage comparisson for setting gain.

Also with that chart, will i be looking for the voltage of just 1 channel or the full 2600 rms when i am adjusting the gain ? i unhook the speaker wires, put my dmm metre in there set to what setting ? then slowly turn the gain up to reach the propper amount of AC voltage is that correct ? that is the chart i saw and had recived in the earlyer stage of this thread. Or it could have been from bassman through yahoo messenger.

that way i will be able to tell how underpowered or if the amplifier sounds propper, at the correct gain setting, if it does not, then we can move onto the next possiblity and eliminate it, Until the amplifier is preforming the way it should, And not need the gain to be cranked so high. Anways, the imiedite impression was the amplifier lit up alot brighter, and the bass tones are alot more responsive and punchy and dont start to drag out at high volume.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZfgD1MjJNg

P.S also how can i tell if the RCA output's on the amplifier are faulty ? i have heard that some of the hifonics brutus's can have faulty RCA outputs and could this be causing the issue ? Also when installing the deck and wiring it all up to the amplifier, Are you not suposed to try and have the RCA cable's as far away from the other wires as possible ? Just a quick question, because in the video where i found out futureshop hadnt even re-bolted our seat back down i looked and all of the wires are right running beside each other, and i thought this was somthing i had read back in the day when i was into car audio, but like ive said before my memory is a bit lacking of that time...

So let me know what you think guys and what direction we should take next, After i set the level propperly today once i feel a bit better ( just got my meds havent had them for awhile ) anyways, Oh and also if the box is 10 cubic feet internally, with those port dimensions we have what did you guys come up with for the port freqency ? just so i know what i should set my sub sonic filter too.

Also does anybody have any sugestions for the low-pass filter aswell ?

-andrew

** EDIT ** once this is all said and done, new head unit, and new alternator, i am going to get another top re-done for my box and the fibreglass held to the bottom of the car propperly because right now it moves around and causes exess noise.

But the idea is, to get the box another good 7 inches taller all over, in the main square area that will deffinatly increase the square feet by a deciant amount to have the box go from 2 and a half feet deep to 3-3 and a half feet deep for a good 2 feet squared. well u guys have seen my box, and should have an idea of how much more square footage this will give my box.

Anyways, once that is done i will be switching to FI BTL 18's they require .5 feet less for a ported enclosure than thease SX 18's, and they are alot more heavy duty. I will switch to 2 amplifiers, and feed them around 1600-1800 RMS each. The reduced required box size, and the added box square footage i will gain from having the new top designed will deffinatly improve the preformance of the system giving the woofers that require less space, more space. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

hopefully wth the new box modifcations it will be over 11 cubic after the woofers are in.

This is all turning into a beatiful picture hehe, atelast i can see it forming at the end //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif i think i am on the right track to getting thease issues resolved and solved and im on my way to having one mean *** system.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

setting our gain via the chart and AC volt read-out on our DMM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aG-KU_LYypM

please respond ASAP ! let us know if we did it right !

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

this is VITAL !!! everybody MUST do this, if you need a chart just message me and i will send it to you, get a cheap DMM metre, and set your gain propperly.

This has completely eliminated all of our over-heating and we can run a stable drivable 130db without really pushing the system to the limits.

now we can start adjusting the bass EQ and other options to obtain more Db.

Now time to fine tune, then continue upgrading //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

hey guys, about to recive our tax return and we are undecided on what to do.

have another top designed for our box, or get a pair of BTL 18''s

i think we are going to get the BTL 18''s first since my motto is get the expensive stuff first when u have the chance hehe.

Anyways, What is a good amplifier for thease subwoofers, They are d2 woofers, what would be the best amp to run a set of thease at 1ohm at around 2000-2400 RMS each.

Also i am having a new top designed for my box to raise it 6 inches all over the main section of the box.

I punched the measurements into boxtuner pro and i got 16 cubic feet, Internal measurements. Before drivers, and thickness of MDF.

Length 28.5''

Width 39.5''

Height 26.5''

I think i am going to get the BTL's, and then get a new top of my box designed to Gain all that extra Cubic feet and get a much larger port done.

This thing should really come together nicely hear in this summer.

 

[Cameron_B 10+ year member]

this is VITAL !!! everybody MUST do this, if you need a chart just message me and i will send it to you, get a cheap DMM metre, and set your gain propperly.
This has completely eliminated all of our over-heating and we can run a stable drivable 130db without really pushing the system to the limits.

now we can start adjusting the bass EQ and other options to obtain more Db.

Now time to fine tune, then continue upgrading //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

LOL finally.....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[snfsh79077 10+ year member]

hey guys, about to recive our tax return and we are undecided on what to do.
have another top designed for our box, or get a pair of BTL 18''s

i think we are going to get the BTL 18''s first since my motto is get the expensive stuff first when u have the chance hehe.

Anyways, What is a good amplifier for thease subwoofers, They are d2 woofers, what would be the best amp to run a set of thease at 1ohm at around 2000-2400 RMS each.

Also i am having a new top designed for my box to raise it 6 inches all over the main section of the box.

I punched the measurements into boxtuner pro and i got 16 cubic feet, Internal measurements. Before drivers, and thickness of MDF.

Length 28.5''

Width 39.5''

Height 26.5''

I think i am going to get the BTL's, and then get a new top of my box designed to Gain all that extra Cubic feet and get a much larger port done.

This thing should really come together nicely hear in this summer.

what you mean is those are external dimensions which will yield only about 14 cuft w/o port or sub displacement then with the correct amount of port area and driver displacement you are looking at around 10 cubes still. Your current box isn't over 10 cubes so you would only gain a cube or two and have the correct port this time.

 

[hornedfrog1985 5,000+ posts]

Not wanting to upgrade my electrical beyond 2nd battery, and big 3 is why I only have a 1200 watt sub stage. It costs a lot to play this game right.

 

[mazdakid 5,000+ posts]

Changing the amp fuse under the hood from 150 to 250 isn't really going to do much. If you aren't blowing the 150 amp fuses, then what's the problem?

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Changing the amp fuse under the hood from 150 to 250 isn't really going to do much. If you aren't blowing the 150 amp fuses, then what's the problem?

now there is a 250 amp fuse right beside the amplifier, i am sure that the old fuse never blew because i was always underpowering the amplifier without the propper electrical.

Now with all the propper electrical system issues dealt with like 0 gauge everything, and my 2nd battery installed im sure it would pop that 150amp fuse with my amplifier's gain settings tunned propperly.

It could also still be my head-unit, it is a very big peice of shit pioneer and only puts out 2.2v

I am going to get a 8v pre-out head-unit, but those mostly dont come with internal amplifiers so i will have to get a seperate amplifier for my internals.

Thanks for that knowledge about the box specs snfsh, hopefully extending the box a little more, and gaining the propper amount of port will help. I have a feeling it will, the more room the better and the more accurate the port the better too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

anyways, right now the system is working great pounding hard and functioning without over-heating at all, now i just have to make it louder //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks to all of you for your great help through-out this thread.

Lets say that there is somthing causing the fuses to not blow because there is not enough current getting through, what would be causing this ?

I thought alternators only charged the batterys when the batterys where completely drained, So i cant see how it could be related souly to my alternator.

How can i test my amplifier for faulty RCA cable outputs ?

And also, i mentioned this above, arnt you suposed to have the RCA cables as far away from all the other wires as possible ?

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Changing the amp fuse under the hood from 150 to 250 isn't really going to do much. If you aren't blowing the 150 amp fuses, then what's the problem?

I agree, and i would still like to investigate this issue, and make sure there is nothing wrong with my amplifier or somthing.

So keep brainstorming guys and coming up with theorys, ill grab the camera and go test them out ! we'll get to the bottom of this //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif hehe no pun intended

 

[snfsh79077 10+ year member]

now there is a 250 amp fuse right beside the amplifier, i am sure that the old fuse never blew because i was always underpowering the amplifier without the propper electrical.
Now with all the propper electrical system issues dealt with like 0 gauge everything, and my 2nd battery installed im sure it would pop that 150amp fuse with my amplifier's gain settings tunned propperly.

It could also still be my head-unit, it is a very big peice of shit pioneer and only puts out 2.2v

I am going to get a 8v pre-out head-unit, but those mostly dont come with internal amplifiers so i will have to get a seperate amplifier for my internals.

Thanks for that knowledge about the box specs snfsh, hopefully extending the box a little more, and gaining the propper amount of port will help. I have a feeling it will, the more room the better and the more accurate the port the better too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

anyways, right now the system is working great pounding hard and functioning without over-heating at all, now i just have to make it louder //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks to all of you for your great help through-out this thread.

Lets say that there is somthing causing the fuses to not blow because there is not enough current getting through, what would be causing this ?

I thought alternators only charged the batterys when the batterys where completely drained, So i cant see how it could be related souly to my alternator.

How can i test my amplifier for faulty RCA cable outputs ?

And also, i mentioned this above, arnt you suposed to have the RCA cables as far away from all the other wires as possible ?

Most of the eclipse HU's that are 8v has internal amps. Only the 7200 and a handful of a lot older models don't have them. You will be fine with 4, 5, or 8v preouts.

Also you said you moved the fuse to right next to the amp. the fuse should be 6" from the battery. So if the amp is connected to your back battery then the fuse should be withing 6" of the back battery. Also did you put two fuses, one 6" from each battery, on the positive wire connecting each battery?